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Little House on the Prarie

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 23

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Description

Great boulder with a few top-class problems on a 30 degree overhanging face, from V2-V5 (plus some easy but slightly heady slab problems on the back). One of the best boulders at Lukenya.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

From the campsite, walk down the road for about 100 m before heading down the hill on the right. Little House on the Prairie is a decent-sized boulder near the edge of a cliff, with a slab on the cliff-facing side and a distinctive juggy rail zigzagging up the overhanging side. If in doubt follow the pin.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off!

FA: Andrew Andress

Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish.

FA: Andrew Andress

Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger.

FA: Michele Leone

Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger

FA: Nathan Brand

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

FA: Nathan Brand

Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple)

FA: Andrew Andress

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