A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1. The Roost 5 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Roost 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -1.483354, 37.068058
description
The side closest to the campsite of a big group of boulders next to the MCK sign. Easily recognised by a chickenhead at the top of the left-hand side of the boulder.
access issues
Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).
ethic
Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Chickenhead
Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best! FA: Andew Andress | V2 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Rooster Tail
Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.) FA: Andew Andress | V3 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Kuku Kienyeji
Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy! FA: Andew Andress | V4 | ||||||
| 4 |
★ Wet fry chicken
A fun and delicate climb up the left of the boulder. Start on same holds as for Kuku kienyeji, then move left and up using small holds and a sidepull to the top, always staying left of Chicken head holds. A good spot is needed to protect from the tree behind. FA: Sven van Enckevort, 12 Mar 2022 | {US} V4 | ||||||
| 5 |
Polla Gol
Right of Rooster Tail. Sit-start on the lowest possible holds. Very hard first move (crux), to get to a better hold out left. Straight up from there. FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023 | {US} V7 | ||||||
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2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V2 | ★★★ | Chickenhead | |||
| V3 | ★ | Rooster Tail | |||
| V4 | ★★ | Kuku Kienyeji | |||
| ★ | Wet fry chicken | ||||
| V7 | Polla Gol |