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The Crown

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 32

Seasonality

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Description

Large boulder with a wide, flat top from a narrower base. In addition to existing routes traverses of increasing difficulty can be put together going around the base and up. The Crown is near picnic tree at the end of the car track going past Main Wall etc. A small trail goes straight down from this area about 50 m to the boulder. If you reach Archway crag you took the wrong path; go back to the cars and take a path lower down.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

FA: Andrew Andress

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

FA: Andrew Andress

To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves!

FA: Tyler Algeo

A sharp and aesthetic traverse of the boulder. Start matched in "The Joker" crack and proceed to make a full traverse of the boulder utilising the features on the main face to the end of the climbable holds marked by a short horizontal crack with a small pocket at it's end. Once the furthest hold right "the pocket" has been achieved, the climber may top out. Note: the top edge of the boulder is off limits. The climber must dance around on the holds and features on the main face and belly of the boulder.

FA: Peter Muambi Naituli, 27 Jul 2020

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top.

FA: Andrew Andress

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

FA: Andrew Andress

Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions.

FA: Ian Thorpe, 8 Nov 2020

Start on pocket/crack at the end of 'Final Boss' and proceed to do the problem in reverse up to where you join 'Jack.' From here, the problem proceeds up and left, sharing a stylish top out with 'The Joker.'

FA: Peter Naituli, 11 Apr 2021

An alternative finish to Heavy is the head. Start on the same holds as for Heavy is the head, but when you arrive at the decent crimp about midway in match and head out left rather than right.

FA: Livio van Enckevort, Jun 2022

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