Bogan's Buttress

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 4




Cliff in the pretty "Prayer Zone" area at the other end of the Lukenya hill from picnic tree and all the other crags, with for the time being one beautiful VS up the prominent face and a chimney climb, with potential for more shortish routes.


Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).



One of two ways: instead of turning left towards the campsite keep going along the top of the hill on a rough track, past a small dam, and turn right down the hill a bit at a house. If not, take the right fork instead of going left to Nemesis and go straight until you come to a few bandas (this is a private campsite), go right here then follow this track to a dam, where you can park and walk 15 mins or so to the Prayer Zone area. Follow the pin, google maps satellite and your nose for all ways.


Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)


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Grade Route

Lovely little route up the main face overlooking the area. Slightly unprotected start on good holds to a horizontal crack which will take a small nut, then up to a big crack which slants up diagonally to the right. Follow this with good holds and gear and finish straight up from where the crack ends, on good holds but no gear for the last few metres.

FA: Henrik, Ian Thorpe & Joel M, 2020

Up the chimney round to the left of DBO.

FA: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, Aug 2018

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