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Bogan's Buttress

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

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Description

Cliff in the pretty "Prayer Zone" area at the other end of the Lukenya hill from picnic tree and all the other crags, with for the time being one beautiful VS up the prominent face and a chimney climb, with potential for more shortish routes.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

One of two ways: instead of turning left towards the campsite keep going along the top of the hill on a rough track, past a small dam, and turn right down the hill a bit at a house. If not, take the right fork instead of going left to Nemesis and go straight until you come to a few bandas (this is a private campsite), go right here then follow this track to a dam, where you can park and walk 15 mins or so to the Prayer Zone area. Follow the pin, google maps satellite and your nose for all ways.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Lovely little route up the main face overlooking the area. Slightly unprotected start on good holds to a horizontal crack which will take a small nut, then up to a big crack which slants up diagonally to the right. Follow this with good holds and gear and finish straight up from where the crack ends, on good holds but no gear for the last few metres.

FA: Henrik, IanT & Joel M, 2020

Up the chimney round to the left of DBO.

FA: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, Aug 2018

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