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Un-generic boulder

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 10
4

Seasonality

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Description

A slabby boulder to the left of the main face. At its base is a narrow gap between it and another much lower and flatter boulder. This narrow gap makes placing pads and protecting from falls a somewhat tricky affair that demands a tad more focus than the average boulder

Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

Bushwhack and follow game trails along the plains between boulder crag and the main face. You will see a large pyramid shaped boulder sticking out of the bush. The 'Un-generic boulder' should be behind this and slightly to the left when faced from the side of Boulder crag.

Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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History

History timeline chart

First recorded exploration was done by a group from Climbing Life Kenya on 13th August 2020

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

An enticing little slab problem up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start in the gap between the two boulders with hands just above waist height. Go either up and slightly left (easier) or up and slightly right (harder). Great for learning how to slab climb. Can be padded by filling in the gap with pads after the climber is above the height of the neighbouring boulder.

FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020

Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up.

FA: Nyamzi Giati, 13 Aug 2020

Stand-start on the same holds as for "Just grab and smear" and proceed to traverse right into "Leg day gains" and finish up via the latter sequence.

FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020

Stand-start up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

FA: Ian Thorpe, 12 Mar 2023

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Mon 24 Apr
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