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description

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

©

Route history

5 Nov 1977First ascent: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -1.48992, 37.06799

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Grade citation

E2 5b Assigned grade
E2 5b Lukenya Climbs

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

© inherited from Lukenya

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 86 from 6 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Flash 1
Tick 2
Top rope 1

Comment keywords

brilliant classic

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