A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.
|5 Nov 1977||First ascent: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas|
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|E2 5b||Assigned grade|
|E2 5b||★★★ Lukenya Climbs|
Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.