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description

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

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Route history

24 May 1961First ascent: Barry Cliff & Anne-Marie Weber

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -1.48421, 37.06977

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Grade citation

HVS 5a 17 Assigned grade
HVS 5a 17 Lukenya Climbs

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

© inherited from Lukenya

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 87 from 5 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 3
Tick 1

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