Routes as sport in Lukenya

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Showing all 34 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
{FR} 7b+ Crimphotep

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. First section is tricky and technical to a large block. Climbing past this block is the crux, with different methods better suiting different heights of climber: either go straight up on poor crimps before moving right, or get a heel-lock and toe-jam in place either side of the block and reach straight for a small but positive crimp up and right. Finish on small crimps to top. Grade subject to debate, bu last 3 people to climb the route suggested 7b+ as the grade so that will be kept for now. FA and date unknown.

VD Andante

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

Sport 22m
{FR} 5c The Accidental Tourist

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

Sport 23m, 5
{SA} 25 Happy Happy Joy Joy

To the right of The Moronic Inferno. Crux between the forth and fifth bolts.

FA: R. Heap & K. Ounsire, 1999

Sport 23m, 7
{FR} 7a Happy End

This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...

FFA: Herve Sergeraert

FA: P. Snyder, 1971

Sport 23m
{SA} 29 The Italian Dream

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

Sport 0m
{FR} 7b E.T.

On the left side of the cliff on the brown/orange wall. Up the prow, moving right to the finish. The crux moves between the second and third bolt is as good as any 3* boulder problem in Lukenya. As of 28 Feb 2021 there is no anchor, so either top out or make an extended rope anchor from the tree at the top of the crag.

FA: E. Baron, 1999

Sport 22m, 5
{FR} 7c+ Banana Cheeks

Currently the hardest route in Lukenya and one of the highest quality routes I have ever bolted.

Start on the far left end of the cliff under the obvious right-rising traverse. Work through the traverse culminating on a hard move to a good rest jug. Chalk up and prepare for the V7 crux through steep terrain to perfect jugs above.

FA: Kristofer Fiore, 16 Jan 2020

Sport 18m, 6

Route to the right of Banana Cheeks. Sparsely bolted with very hard crux in the middle. Not known if it has been climbed or who put it up.

{FR} 6c+ Twisted Sisters

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards, finishing left and up of the last bolt (anchor hidden behind a small ledge over the overhang. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

FA: A. Fiksman, 2000

Sport 25m, 6
{FR} 7a+ Jason's route

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

Sport 18m
{FR} 6b Nemesis

Between Jason's route and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

FA: S. Marlow & W. Dove, 1999

Sport 22m, 5
{FR} 6b+ Bold Brothers

Fun line up the black streak between Nemesis and KL corner. Stay strong through the crux low down to finish on easier, fun climbing to the top. Found, FA'd and named by two strong young brothers!

FA: Livio van Enckevort, Luca van Enckevort & Sven van Enckevort, 28 Feb 2021

Sport 15m, 5
{FR} 7b Happy Birthday Piers Wood

On the right face, to the left of the obvious scoop used in Turbulence and As Good As It Gets, is a thin crack that slants up to the left. Very technical moves past the third bolt.

FA: M. Heileman, 2002

Sport 22m, 5
{FR} 6b+ Turbulence

Start 6 m right of K.L. Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

FA: Iain Allan, 2000

Sport 25m, 6
{FR} 6a+ As Good as it Gets

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 25m, 6
{FR} 6c As Good as it Gets Direct Start

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

{FR} 6b Faithless

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

Sport 12m
{FR} 6a Leap of Faith

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 22m, 6
{FR} 6a+ Peaches and Cream

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 22m, 6
{FR} 5c Smooth

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 20m, 4
{FR} 5b Bliss of Nemesis

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Set: Henrik

FA: Henrik, 2017

Sport 15m, 5
Baboon Cliff
{FR} 3 Lemon Squeezy

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman

Sport 15m, 3
{FR} 4b Viti Vipi

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

FA: Emilia Smith, Luke Mendola & Kris Fiore, 13 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Tangawizi

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman

Sport 15m, 3
{FR} 4c Fickle Pickle

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 13 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Supu ya kuku

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

FA: Luke Mendola, Emi Smith, Kris Fiore & Emilia Smith, 13 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Mambo Mamba

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 5a Heebie Jeebies

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Sleazy Greasy

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

FA: Asa Forsman & Ia Westman

Sport 15m, 3
{FR} 4c Si Rahisi

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

FA: Asa Forsman & Ia Westman

Sport 12m, 3
{FR} 4c Nyani gani?

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

FA: Luke Mendola & Kris Fiore, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 5b Dapper Flapper

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan 2020

Sport 5
Rock Art Cliff
Art Rock

FA and grade unknown, but there is a bolted line with bolted anchor traversing up and left from the right-hand side of the overhang. Looks hard, if you climb it or have information on it please get in touch with the MCK!


Showing all 34 routes.

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