Help

Lukenya Guide

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 13
  • Ascents: 886
  • Aka: Lukenia

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Mountain Club of Kenya IanT Emmanuel F Peter Naituli Kristofer Fiore Adam Guyer Henrik Schunk Crushy McCrush Face

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Table of contents

1. Lukenya 572 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -1.460228, 37.068359

summary

The most popular crag in Kenya is certainly Lukenya, located just 45 minutes from Nairobi. See more info on the MCK website: https://www.mck.or.ke/lukenya-rock-climbing/

©

description

Lukenya offers a variety of climbing routes including face climbs, some jamming cracks, and overhangs in difficulty ratings of up to E4 6b (and increasing!). The first route was opened in 1936 when Arthur Firmin put up “Arthur’s Horror” (Severe) but visitors nowadays often do the climbs in the 5b to 5c range located on Main Face, Upper Cliffs or Edinburgh Castle. Lukenya, with its good-quality routes in all grades, is also an excellent place to provide instruction and the MCK provides a chance for first-time and intermediate climbers to learn something during the Beginners’ and Intermediate Climbing Meets, each offered several times a year.

©

access issues

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

©

approach

From Nairobi, take the Mombasa highway. Turn left after the Cement factory (use your GPS for Lukenya academy). Follow the signs for Lukenya academy. Carefully and slowly drive through the school to the cliffs.

©

where to stay

There’s a campsite on top of the hill, which has no facilities so you need to bring your own water, food, camping gear and carry your trash out. If you want to make a fire you’ll have to bring your own wood. Never cut trees or bushes down to preserve the environment.

©

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

©

1.1. Main Face 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.481398, 37.070669

description

Main Face is the largest of all the Lukenia crags and dominates the view from the North Picnic Tree. In terms of stature, this cliff is second only to Edinburgh castle at Lukenia, and like the castle, it has always been sadly neglected despite the presence of the beautiful climb Pier, which has existed there for over thirty years, people have come to this cliff mainly to ascend Bandstand. The old Lukenia guidebooks have frequently stated that belays and protections are difficult to find on this face but with modern equipment this is far from the truth. The climbs on the Main Face to the right of Arthurs Horror are various in number and their final pitches tend to merge on the upper slabs where on can in any case wander at will. The route descriptions pinpoint the starts but make little attempt to specify the remainder of the climb. Once past the initial pitches the slab climbing is no more that V.D 4a standard throughout and it is suggested that climbers choose their own lines of exit. Care should be taken here as protection due to doubtful flakes but good, if spaced out protection can be found if looked for carefully. It consists of three sections: South End—the dark vegetated slabs on the far left, the overhang above, the recessed slabs and walls immediately to their right. Main Face—the majority of the face with the longest climbs. North End— the shorter climbs at the right-hand end past the gully.

The routes below are located from left to right on the crag.

Recommended routes: Arthur’s Horror—S. Colin’s Caper—S. Bandstand—V.S. Snake—V.D.

©

approach

Park below the cliff, then follow some cairns up a good trail. The trail branches off - Right reaches the base of the cliff near Athur's Horror and lead to all the other climbs right of Arthur Horror. Left continues further up and around to Bandstand.

©

descent notes

Abseil from one of the two anchors at the top of the wall. One set above Seventh Wave and another above Pier. You'll need two 60 ropes unless you have some tricks.

©

history

Older description of the Main Face

The climbs on Main Face are now so many in number that their final pitches tend to merge on the upper slabs where one can in any case wander at will. The route descriptions pinpoint the starts but make no attempt to specify the remainder of the climb. Once past the initial pitches the slab climbing is no more than V.D. standard throughout (with the exceptions of the Spot, Arthur’s Horror and Colin’s Caper, Severes) and it is suggested that climbers choose their own lines of exit. Care should be taken up here as the lack of protection and some doubtful flakes give the climbs a serious air [written 1973].

In terms of stature this cliff is second only to Edinburgh Castle at Lukenia, and like The Castle it has always been sadly neglected. Despite the presence of the beautiful climb Pier which has existed here for over thirty years, people have come to this cliff mainly to ascend Bandstand. The old Lukenia guidebooks have frequently stated that belays and protection are difficult to find on this face, but with modern equipment this is far from the truth [written 1991]. The following routes are best reached by driving northwards along the car track until the road veers left at a point below the central portion of Main Face. A trail then leads up to the base of Main Face and reaches it near the beginning of Fanny's Fright, and then continues southwards along the base, of the cliff past the starts of Dilemma, Colin's Caper and the classic Arthur's Horror. It then leads on rising to the start of Bandstand.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gangplank

The climb traverses in under the large overhang and then up the corner to the left of Bandstand. Sometimes has hornets.

  1. 30m. Up slabs to left-hand end of roof. Big block to belay from.

  2. 15m. Traverse under roof until ledge narrows awkward step right to ledge; with aid from peg gain second stance of Bandstand.

  3. 15m. Step left across corner and up wall on good holds above overhang.

Or HS A1 without going free

FFA: Emmanuel F & Max Weiner

FA: I. F. Howell & I. Sandilands., 1968

VS Trad 60m
2 Bandstand

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

FA: Alan Owen

FA: Michael Adams and, 1958

VS 4b Trad 55m
3 Drowning in the Shallow End

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

FA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990

HVS 5a Trad 55m
4 The Cruel Sea

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen., 1990

E2 5c Trad 60m
5 Pier

From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

FA: Michael Adams, Peter Jenkins & Alan Owen, 1958

HVS 5a Trad 30m
6 Promenade

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

  1. 26m. Climb left-hand wall to large nettle tree. At the first bulge traverse right 3m then up.

  2. 40m. Ascend steepening wall to overhang and take this via flake on left or pigeon hole to right.

FA: W. M. Adams, P. Jenkins & A. Owen, 1958

HVS 5a Trad 66m
7 The Last Voyage of The Titanic

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

FA: Herve & Nathalie Sergeraert, 1990

HVS 5a Trad 25m
8 The Seventh Wave

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

FA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990

HVS 5a Trad 25m
9 Arthur's Horror

Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff.

FA: Arthur Firmin & Evelyn Baring, 1936

S 4a Trad 60m
10 Hope Floats

Climb first pitch of Arthur's Horror. Start second pitch as far as the traverse right. Just before you climb vertically up towards the exit of Arthurs Horror, you should see a bolt (first of three) at about 2m. Climb directly up past the bolt and slightly left on good hold to reach the second bolt. Continue leftwards toward 3rd bolt, again on good holds. Exit climb slightly left.

HVS Mixed trad 3
11 The Joker

Take Arthur's Horror as far as the big block belay below the final pitch. Take the obvious flake up from here and step right to small ledge. Continue up rightwards to a point below bolt. This route thrillingly makes its way up to the right of the bolt, edges leftwards above and up (fixed peg pro), to awkward moves on final few feet of cliff. You'll love every second!

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1990

E3 6a Trad 60m
12 Colin's Caper

Start halfway between Arthur’s Horror and Dilemma, directly under a long grass ledge at 20m.

  1. 20m. Straight up to grassy ledge and belay.

  2. 30m. Climb the face to the right of the huge flake, moving slightly to the right into a black scoop level with the ledge on Arthur’s Horror.

  3. 25m. Straight up from the scoop to a groove at 15m. Either climb the nose to the right of the groove or the wall to its left, traversing right across the groove to finish.

S Trad 75m
13 Dilemma

Start at foot of rib to left of crack with nettle tree. Follow rib for 25m, move right to platform. Left-handed to final wall and twin cracks, finish on right of these.

S Trad 80m
14 Fanny's Fright

Some 20m left of gully and fig tree is a prominent groove with nettle tree at 3m. Climb groove and buttress on right to platform. Into wide gully. Easy rock to top.

VD Trad 73m
15 Troika

Start on the wall immediately to the right of the gully and fig tree. Climb wall to good ledge by large detached flake at 30m. Climb groove and crack. Finish up wall.

FA: C. Brown, P. Le Pelley & C. P. V. Walker, 1965

VD Trad 73m
16 Crow's Nest

Start 15m to right of gully and fig tree in a recess. Up the back wall and exit right onto a rib. Follow a water groove and easiest line to summit.

FA: M.C. Watts, 1973

VD Trad 73m
17 Snake

Start where detached flake rests against small tree at foot of groove with recess on left at 3m. Ascend groove for 6m and move left onto sloping face to platform and tree. Slightly left to small grassy platform. Right and then left to large recess. Aim for right-hand end of summit boulders to finish.

VD Trad 75m
18 Diag

Start at foot of Cobblestones. Climb gully and belay at top. Traverse left and climb to last pitch of Arthur’s Horror finishing just right of this.

FA: Iain Allan & C. Wilson, 1968

VD Trad 120m
19 Cobblestones

Start at foot of buttress bounded by gully on right. Climb to base of crack, then up crack or buttress on right. Ascending traverse right to ledge. Straight up open face to grassy recess. Ascending traverse left to finish.

VD Trad 67m
20 Tree Route

To the right of the face a slight gully appears. Start a short way up gully on left-hand wall. A broken line leads to a wide grassy ledge which is followed to above eye of gully. Move left and continue to large platform with tree. Left and up to finish.

VD Trad 72m
21 The Spot

To the right of Tree Route is a large white rock under the steeper face. Start between the rock and the next tree on the face.

  1. 30m. Straight up the face, turning on the left the grass ledge at 20m. Up crack and slightly right to good belay under second grass ledge.

  2. 10m. Traverse left over thin holds and then up to obvious knob belay.

  3. 18m. Up leaving flake on left and onto grassy ledge. Tree belay.

  4. 12m. About 4.5m left from tree climb to slight overhang. Take this on left and straight up past small tree to finish.

FA: C. Brown, P. Le Pelley & P. Howick, 1965

S Trad 70m
22 The Sword

Start 4.5m to left of overhanging crack.

  1. 15m. Climb up water groove to tree belay.

  2. 12m. Over grass to base of crack. Belay in recess.

  3. 7m. Up crack to finish.

VD Trad 35m
23 Trapeze

The slanting chimney itself. Climb chimney past chockstones to roof—traverse left on smooth slab to ledge.

FA: M. Harris, B. Forrester & S. Barruso, 1962

HS Trad 30m
24 Scimitar

Start in crack at foot of wall. Climb straight up to platform for 10m. 3m right and straight up overhang to ledge with good flake belay. Move right and straight over final over-hang to finish. .

S Trad 22m
25 Cave Corner

The easiest line over the cave at the far right hand end of the crags.

S Trad 16m
26 Strugglebus

Perfect hands through a horizontal roof and into an overhanging stem slot – great, awkward movement and a satisfying grunt fest for any crack enthusiasts out there!

FA: Vadim Kuklov, 12 Apr 2017

{US} 5.10+ Trad
27 Playtex

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Playtex is the first: Descend groove via tunnel to good stance below old eagle’s nest. Descend an easy crack to ledge. Swing round awkward corner to gain slabs at foot of large cave. Descend slightly along grassy ledge, then up awkward groove and over steep slabs until angle eases and progress can be made to left.

VD Trad 210m
28 Flying Visit

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Flying Visit is the second: Up, and left along obvious traverse line across South End face to nettle trees and stance of Bandstand. Climb across corner and follow lip of overhang till wall steepens then finish above.

FA: M. Hill & P. Jones, 1971

VS Trad 210m
29 Eagle's Nest Traverse

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Eagle's Nest Traverse is the third: Climb up to small recess and belay. Traverse across semi-detached flake on left and follow line of weakness across South End. Descend in crack to stance above eagle’s nest. Take wall above stance to finish.

FA: Arthur Firmin

S Trad 210m

1.2. Edinburgh castle 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.489917, 37.067988

description

Lukenya's premier cliff. The Castle embodies everything that is great about Lukenya climbing... position, quality, exposure, and concentrated difficulty. No other cliff in Kenya has captured the imaginations of past generations of Kenyan climbers as this one has.

Recommended routes: 'Princes Street' — E2 5b 'Committee Wall' — V.S.

©

approach

Reach Edinburgh Castle by either bush-bashing up from the top of Window Buttress or driving up to the Lukenia campsite on the top, and walking ten minutes along a good game track to the top of the cliff. The start of the climbs can be reached by a 50m abseil (directly above finish of Golden Anniversary or Committee Wall) or a walk down.

©

descent notes

Abseil anchors direct above the finish of Committee Wall and Golden Anniversary

©

history

The first attempts to climb Edinburgh castle caused such a scandal in the Mountain Club that the climbing fraternity broke into two factions during the late 1950*s and early 60's. One party attacked the East Face while the other attempted the South Face, each daring tile other to produce the route of quality. Rumours abound but it is said the East Face (Committee Wall) party won, to be followed shortly afterwards by the South Face team, who produced a more technical.... "Gateway to a new era of climbing in Kenya". The story goes that neither party ever spoke to the other again!

Controversy continued in 1961 when a different team, who possibly in an attempt to deflate the decidedly unfriendly atmosphere prevailing in the Mountain Club, suddenly produced a third route on The Castle (Anniversary Climb) which turned out to be a fictional creation. Despite this it somehow found its way into the 1973 third edition of the guide book.

The year 1967 saw more serious trespassers taking an interest in The Castle. Ian Howell probed the area around the intimidating overhangs which lie between the South and East Faces. His attempt ended, however, long before reaching these overhangs culminating in a a 15m fall which persuaded him to call it a day. Next came Iain Allan who successfully pushed the route into the cruxy little wall between the overhangs prior to embarking upon a 30m flight which ended several feet above the ground. Several weeks later Allan returned and took Princes Street through to its end.

Edinburgh Castle lay silent for twenty-one years, when an older and wiser Iain Allan returned in 1989, and with Magnus Karlsen produced two routes of quality: 'Traitor's Gate' and 'Waterloo'.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gateway

The South face of Edinburgh Castle. Start from the upright flake at foot of the slab.

  1. 27m. Climb to centre of face until shortly before the slab steepens to a wall. Make ascending traverse left to steeply sloping ledge below wall and move left to tree belay.

  2. 38m. Move right from tree onto ledge. After some 10' climb steep wall and rising traverse right into 'pulpit'. Protection pegs in place (as of 1973 TODO check this). From 'pulpit' climb slab above by ascending left wall, move slightly right and up to horizontal crack. With hands in this, traverse left to easier climbing and prominent tree. Up wall to tree and then either ascend wall direct or follow diagonal crack to right to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams & R. Searle, 1960

E1 Trad 55m
2 Waterloo

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

E1 5b Trad 43m
3 The Keep

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas, 1977

E2 5b Mixed trad 55m, 3
4 Spicer Spice

This is a variant to the Keep Route. Start up The Keep to the overhang. Traverse right to bolt in overhanging hand traverse. Go up flake to nut runner (crux) and then finish right at abseil ledge.

FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2002

AU:24 Trad
5 Traitor's Gate

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

E3 5c Trad 55m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Princes Street

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

FA: Iain Allan & Roger Higgins, 1968

E2 5b Trad 55m
7 Committee Wall
  1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

  2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

FA: G. Newham & J. Blacker, 1961

VS 4c Trad 50m
8 Queensway

To the right of 'Committee Wall' there is a corner with a wide crack. 5m to the right of this is another crack.

  1. 20m. Up this with peg runner at 5m. Continue up to easier ground. Follow crack, which widens, then make hard move up to 'Committee Wall' traverse.

  2. 30m. From the obvious flake to left of 'keyhole' move up left to bolt in place below overhang. With aid from a sling over lip and easy climbing above.

FA: R. Harper & Ian Howell, 1972

HVS A1 Trad 50m
9 Golden Anniversary

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

FA: Ian Howell & ?, 1982

VS 4c Trad 46m
10 Committee Wall (Golden Anniversary Start)

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

VS 4c Trad 50m
11 Ramparts

Girdle traverse of Edinburgh Castle.

  1. 15m. Climb Graceful Chimney to tree.

  2. 18m. From tree move horizontally left with increasing difficulty until with the use of aid good holds beneath the 'keyhole' are reached.

  3. 18m. Descend pitch 2 of Committee Wall to flake and belay.

  4. 30m. Ascend 3m above flake, move left and across steep slabs to pegs on Gateway. Climb pitch 2 of Gateway to tree belay.

  5. 20m. Descend left to grassy ledges until vertical crack is reached. Ascend this to top.

FA: Ian Howell & R. Higgins, 1972

E1 A1 Trad 100m

1.3. Archway 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.488799, 37.069976

description

150m from the South Picnic Tree to the left there is a grey slab surmounted by a tumble of huge boulders with a fig tree growing out of them. This crag is one of the most pleasant at Lukenia and is an excellent introduction to the type of climbing in the area. Two old routes, Subway and Boiler Plate are worthy inclusions on anybody's day and their altered descriptions are mentioned below.

Recommended routes: Standard Route—D. Tramlines—S. Subway—V.S. Boilerplate--V.S.

©

approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to Archway crag. This is the first crag that you'll encounter without having to climb up.

©

descent notes

Depending on the climb, you can either scramble down to the left side of the cliff, or traverse to the right (there are also some holes you can squeeze through). Either way, you'll end up going down a gully.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South Climb

Start on dark rock 6m to the left of lichenuous slab, a groove with quartz at the foot. Follow groove to finish.

M Trad 10m
2 Likin

Lies between South Climb and Long Layback. Start in centre of slab and climb direct for 6m then slightly right to top.

FA: P. Le Pelley & N. A. Fumiss, 1959

S Trad 20m
3 Long Layback

Scramble up crescent shaped gully to tree belay. Using lip of crack for layback, climb to end of crack and final belay.

D Trad 28m
4 Archway Original

Start on right at point of gully. Simple traverse right leads behind small tree. Climb up moving right then left to the top.

M Trad 33m
5 Standard Route

Start at base of face below apex of groove 2.5m' to right of tree at ground level. Climb left to overhang at easiest point, surmount this and move up to reasonable rock that leads to finish.

D Trad 33m
6 Archway Direct

Start at point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground. Move right-handed to platform, ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish in bushy trees. Abseil from here Two alternate starts may be made: Superdirect and Supersuperdirect.

VD Trad 20m
7 Archway Superdirect

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Start on corner of buttress to right of normal start (point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground). Leads to platform. Finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

S Trad 20m
8 Archway Supersuperdirect

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Further round corner to right at narrow crack with fig tree. Climb crack in entirety, including section above ledge. Rejoin route at ledge and finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

S Trad 28m
9 Subway

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

FA: Barry Cliff, Collette Brown & David Lockwood, 1962

HVS 5a Trad 20m
10 Nasser

Start as for Tramlines. Step across to ledge. The face is taken direct avoiding the vegetated crack on the left.

FA: R. Smith & G. B. Cliff A. M. Waber, 1962

HS Trad 30m
11 Tramlines

Start at foot of large fig tree in gully. Layback to top of flake on right. Traverse left a few feet to ledge at foot of upper gully. From here thin twin cracks up right- hand corner of gully take route out onto face on right which is then climbed direct.

S Trad 35m
12 Junction

Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish.

FA: Michael Adams, Ron Searle & Peter Le Pelley, 1960

VS 5a Trad 30m
13 Blue Train

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

HVS 5a Trad 25m
14 Boiler Plate

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

FA: Michael Adams & Alan Owen, 1959

VS 5a Mixed trad 25m, 1
15 Golden Rivet

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

HVS 5a Trad 25m
16 Bandana

About 8m to the right of Boiler Plate there is a steep vegetated crack. Climb through tree then up crack to steep bulge (crux), continue up grass to top.

FA: Iain Allan & H. Smith, 1968

HS Trad 23m
17 Matatu

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

FA: Pete O' Sullivan, Ron Corkhill & Andrew Wielochowski, 1981

E2 5c Trad 20m
18 Hit and Run

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

FA: Iain Allan, 1988

E2 6a Trad 16m
19 Freeway

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

VS 4b Trad 16m

1.4. Egyptian 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.489743, 37.069946

description

One of the best crags in Lukenya. Beware of hornets and bees on some of the climbs (Papyrus and Pharoah's wall especially).

©

approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to the crag. You'll see a bolted route at the right side of the crag. Egyptian Crag lies about 200 meters left of the South Picnic Tree at the foot of the hill beyond Archway Crag.

©

descent notes

Walk down to either sides of the cliff, or rig a temporary abseil on a tree.

©

history

As per guidebook: The obvious vertical crack between Scarab and Sweet Fanny Adams has only been climbed as far as the hanging block on the right on account of a bees' nest just above.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cleopatra

Start in the middle of left-hand buttress of crag at a crack surmounted by a double overhang and pointed boulder on skyline. Follow crack to overhang, pull up and move to final boulder which is taken direct.

VD Trad 16m
2 Nefertiti

A straight line between Cleopatra and Ammon, turning the overhang on the right and keeping out of the trees.

FA: R. A. Cooper, P. Le Pelley & C. Brown, 1960

VD Trad 20m
3 Ammon

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

D Trad 20m
4 Rameses

Start just to the left of Osiris and aim for a small bush on the skyline directly above.

FA: M. C. Watts, 1973

S Trad 20m
5 Osiris

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

S Trad 20m
6 Isis

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

D Trad 23m
7 Ashenhaten

To the right of Isis is a deep crack starting some 2.5m up. A hard start just to the left, then straight up.

FA: J. Temple & M. C. Watts, 1973

VS Trad 22m
8 DIY / Ulf Carlsson Memorial Route

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Ian Howell, 1997

E2 5c Mixed trad 20m, 3
9 Pharaoh's Wall

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

VD Trad 22m
10 Papyrus

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

FA: A. Owen & F. Richardson, 1961

S Trad 22m
11 Anthony

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. Climb to platform and then the difficult-looking wall behind to ledge for belay. Move right along ledge and climb short, strenuous crack on corner. Over boulder to finish on summit.

VD Trad 25m
12 Vulture's Nest

Start below right hand end of platform, where a fig tree affords an easy route to the platform. Ascend corner on left of gully to ledge and belay. Move left along ledge to small tree beside which an easy route will be found leading to the top. An alternative route to the platform can be made (9m, VS). Start directly below the second pitch on a wall with small holds. Ascend 3m, traverse 3m left, continue left-handed to good holds on the corner. (A. Owen; 1961)

D Trad 25m
13 Ptolemy

Start as for Vulture's Nest to platform. Climb onto corner on right. Awkward step on point of corner leads to easy rock and direct to top.

D Trad 26m
14 Scarab

Lies between Ptolemy and Sweet Fanny Adams on the buttress just to the left of the chimney. Climb to the pigeon-hole where an awkward move leads to a ledge at 7.5m. From ledge climb directly up or cross chimney to block on right and then up.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1961

S Trad 23m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Death of Disco

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

FA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989

HVS 5a Trad 25m
16 Chips Funga

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail which can take questionable gear. Powerful moves left across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

E1 5b Trad 25m
17 Sweet Fanny Adams

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1958

VS Trad 22m
18 Sphynx

The climb goes up the chimney immediately to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams. Back up the chimney facing right for 9m when a runner may be placed in the crack. Continue direct up the crack until the ledge can be reached. Traverse right 4.5m and ascend wall above on small holds.

FA: G. B. Cliff & R. Smith, 1960

VS Trad 20m
19 Dog's Dinner

Start 7.5m to the right of Sphynx on the corner. Up fault as far as possible then traverse right to corner. Climb direct to hole. From here onto ledge immediately above and take final pitch above. Follow fault for 4.5m then traverse and up corner to top.

FA: R. Smith, 1961

S Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Unknown - That Hard Egyptian Arrete

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. First section is tricky and technical to a large block. Climbing past this block is the crux, with different methods better suiting different heights of climber: either go straight up on poor crimps before moving right, or get a heel-lock and toe-jam in place either side of the block and reach straight for a small but positive crimp up and right. Finish on small crimps to top. Grade subject to debate. Name and FA unknown. Last 3 people to climb the route suggested 26 as the grade.

{SA} 29 Sport
21 Los Penitentes

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1996

E2 5b Mixed trad 2

1.5. Cave Crag 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.489287, 37.069828

description

Between Archway and Egyptian Crags a grassy gully leads into the hillside. Some 50m up this on the left is Cave Crag. A rough, little-climbed crag with a deep cave to the left.

Recommended routes: Jericho Wall—X.S

©

approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to the gully just before Egyptian crag. Cave crag is just above Egyptian crag. Just bash through the gully to reach it. If you continue up this gully, you'll get to Cemetary wall and Eagle's nest crag.

©

descent notes

Walk down to the climber's right of the cliff to get back into the gully.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chimney Sweep

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

FA: F. Richardson, A. Owen & W. M. Adams

S Trad 13m
2 Eve

Start 2m left of Jericho Wall. Climb directly to horizontal crack above the start. Finger traverse right until the pigeon hole is reached. Move left-handed across slab to finish.

FA: R.A. Bennett, 1959

E1 Trad 13m
3 Jericho Wall

Start well up left hand gully from point of small boulder below a tiny fig tree in a pigeon hole on the wall at 4.5m. Step on to wall and climb to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right and mantleshelf onto small ledge. At right hand edge climb groove to platform and top. Abseil off the tree just below the top.

FA: W.M. Adams, 1959

E1 Trad 16m
4 Amen Corner

Start just left of the foot of the buttress round the corner from the cave. Climb up the wall into a scoop. Two hard moves up the scoop bring a short hand traverse within reach. Move right and then straight up groove on corner. An alternative start may be made by traversing in from the left to avoid the scoop.

FA: R. A. Bennett & F. Richardson, 1959

VS Trad 17m
5 Gaza

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Iain Allan

HVS 5b Trad 20m
6 Cave Crack

Climb slab on right in cave to platform below overhang. At point of cave and overhang is a steep shelf leading diagonally left and up. Hand traverse along this and into the crack then onto the left face. From here easier rock leads to finish on wide ledge with belay.

FA: R. Caulkwell, 1954

VS Trad 20m
7 The Villa

Start 9m to the right of the cave, where there is a semidetached piece of rock. Step from slab to point of semi-detached piece of rock. Traverse left and ascend steep wall directly to ledge with belay. Finish directly up groove behind belay. An alternative finish may be made by moving right from the belay ledge, up a small wall and over final boulder.

D Trad 17m

1.6. Eagle's Nest 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.488270, 37.069733

description

From the South Picnic Tree Cemetery and Eagle's Nest cliffs form the upper skyline. Walk up the gully behind the Picnic Tree and then left-handed to the base of the cliff. The whole area lies to the left of the gully of Fig Tree Face with the two very large fig trees at the foot. The face consists of two parts the break being at the angle of the cliffs between Epitaph, the right-hand climb of the Cemetery and Eagle’s Nest Crack, the left-hand climb of Eagle’s Nest Face. The climbing is mostly steep and clean with good rock. These are not beginners’ cliffs.

©

approach

Park at Picnic tree then walk up the gully, when you reach the cliffs take a left until you get to Eagle's Nest crag . An alternative option is to go past Archway crag and up the gully (passing Cave Crag) until you reach Cemetery wall then take a right to Eagle's Nest crag. This cliff is prominent from the picnic tree

©

descent notes

Abseil off the tree at the top of Cemetery wall, or walk off.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Striptease

A genuine "sport-climb" at Lukenia! Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

FA: Herve Sergeraert, Pierre Yves Gibello & Nathalie Sergeraert, 1990

5c AU:20 Mixed trad 30m, 3
2 Eagle's Nest Crack

Start 2m to the right of fig tree root.

  1. 27m. Climb bulge, moving right to root-filled crack. Move along crack to second fig tree (runner). Cross eye of crack to face below block and pull up over block on good holds to platform.

  2. 9m. Ascend wall behind in the centre.

FA: Caukwell, Ker & Jenkins, 1954

VS Trad 37m
3 Exhibition Wall

Right up there with the best. Climb the face 3m right of Eagle's Nest Crack and over a slight bulge to the root. Move up to scoop, step left, up to bolt. Climb up rightwards (crux), to horizontal crack then left to vertical crack and follow this to top.

FA: Andrew Wielochowski & Mark Savage, 1981

E2 6a Trad 25m
4 Anglepoise

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

FA: R. Baillie, R. Pillinger & T. Phillips, 1954

E3 5c Trad 25m
5 Savage Waltz

Best climbed when cliff is in the shade. Start 30' right of Anglepoise just left of a prominent boulder on the ground. Climb bulge and layback crack to a small tree. Swing right and layback (crux) to a niche. Follow horizontal crack right to easier ground.

FA: John Fantini, 1979

E3 6a Trad 22m
6 Pig's Ear

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

FA: Rusty Baillie & John Winning, 1964

E1 5b AU:19 Trad 22m
7 Thin Wall (original)

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

  1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

  2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

FA: R. Caukwell, P. Campbell & Heeroma, 1954

HS 4b Trad 30m
8 Thin Wall (Gable Finish)

Start as for Thin Wall Original.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 10m.. Climb slightly right-handed to left point of the Baboon Traverse overhang. From here to tree on left at foot of sentry-box.

  3. 10m. Climb sentry-box direct to finish over slab at top. Belay to boulder some way back.

FA: Jenkins & Wilson, 1956

S Trad 33m
9 Baboon Traverse

Start as for Thin Wall Original. A traverse line.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 17m. Traverse right-handed below overhang where, at 8m a flake runner may be found. 9m further on, below line of traverse, is a large semi-detached block with fig tree for belay.

  3. 14m. Rejoin line of traverse and then to foot of tree growing out of overhang, climb down across corner to large fig tree for final belay.

FA: P. Campbell & Ker, 1956

S Trad 43m
10 Owl Crack

This climb was originally climbed as an aid route by Barry Cliff and John Hull in 1963, and it then lay dormant until Henry Barber climbed it free in 1978. The first moves off the ground and the daring sequence across the final roof were the crux sections of the route. In 1989, without realising it had been climbed free, Herve Sergeraert did the route adding a more direct (but easier) way between the initial difficulties and the finishing roof which has become known as the "Paradise Variation''. During this ascent Herve placed a bolt on the roof, which Barber had originally led with nuts. The route is best done incorporating the Paradise Variation, but if it belongs to anyone it must surely be Barber. Start about 9m right of Thin Wall where there is an obvious edge. Three very hard moves up an overhanging wall then step left to the foot of crack. Climb up right along crack and shallow corner to Baboon Ledge. Traverse 3m right to big groove below the roof. Up groove then right (bolt), across wall. Join the pillar and climb the slab on its right.

FA: Barry Cliff & John Hull, 1963

FFA: Henry Barber, 1978

E2 6a Trad 28m
11 Hangover

Start 2m to left of roots of fig tree at right-hand end of Eagle’s Nest Face. Small crack with tiny fig tree in it leads to ledge on left. Move left to point of corner. Strenuous move leads to corner which is climbed direct to foot of tree under overhang. Ascend overhang direct and finish over easy slab.

FA: W. M. Adams & A. Owen, 1958

VS Trad 17m
12 Plunge

Start on tree to right of Hangover. Ascend wall and up to obvious cracked overhang. Climb this directly and exit on left. Up easily to belay on top of slab.

FA: M. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1967

HS 4a Trad 16m

1.7. The Cemetery 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.488598, 37.069636

description

From the South Picnic Tree Cemetery and Eagle's Nest cliffs form the upper skyline. Walk up the gully behind the Picnic Tree and then left-handed to the base of the cliff. The whole area lies to the left of the gully of Fig Tree Face with the two very large fig trees at the foot. The face consists of two parts, the break being at the angle of the cliffs between Epitaph, the right-hand climb of the Cemetery and Eagle’s Nest Crack, the left-hand climb of Eagle’s Nest Face. The climbing is mostly steep and clean with good rock. These are not beginners’ cliffs.

Recommended routes: Cemetery corner—Severe

©

approach

Park at Picnic tree then walk up the gully, when you reach the cliffs take a left and go past Eagle's Nest crag until you reach Cemetery wall (it's on a higher platform). An alternative option is to go past Archway crag and up the gully (passing Cave Crag) until you reach Cemetery wall.

©

descent notes

Abseil off obvious tree above Swog.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Coffin

Start in gully left of slab at foot of grey tree root. Climb to platform, move up right-handed to poor stance and belay at 35'. Traverse left across face to good holds and ascend wall until under point of boulder on left. Pull up on jugs to finish.

VD Trad 17m
2 Hammer and Sickle

Start at the base of groove behind bush between Coffin and point of slab. Ascend groove, move out right to grassy ledge, move to left edge of sand-coloured slab. Ascending traverse right across slab, move right-hand over point of corner to easier rock and top. An alternative finish (Severe) may be followed from the grassy ledge by ascending to vertical crack and moving right in an ascending traverse. Cross onto Tombstone and to the bulge directly below the fig tree. Finish above.

FA: Alt. Finish: Luther Bros, 1969

VD Trad 20m
3 Tidy

Start almost precisely halfway between Tombstone and Hammer and Sickle and go straight up to the right- angled corner at the left-hand end of the overhang. Climb to corner and finish on the upper slab.

VD Trad 20m
4 Tombstone

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

FA: W. M. Adams, A. Owen & Horsfall, 1959

VS 4b Trad 20m
5 Swog

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1991

HVS 5a Mixed trad 16m, 2
6 Cemetery Corner

Start at base of crack at right-hand corner of slab where there is a prominent fault. Move left-handed under edge of overlapping slab. At left-hand point of overlap climb onto wall and move back right-handed to smooth wall and chimney. Back up over chockstone boulders to platform (root belay). Delicate move onto left-hand wall and traverse until wall can be climbed directly or a swing up can be made on small block. Move left- handed to finish.

S 4a Trad 23m
7 Norman Bates

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1977

VS 5a Trad 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Corpse

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

FA: Greg Mortimer, Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

E1 5b Trad 22m
9 The Quick and The Dead

This climb which is of no value whatsoever, starts 3m left of Cemetery Wall at the bottom of the gully just right of Corpse. Climb over a small overlap then make difficult moves up using a finger-crack to reach a good ledge, which is shared with Cemetery Wall. Traverse delicately left and turn the corner to better holds. Straight up.

FA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989

E1 5b Trad 20m
10 Cemetery Wall

In middle of face is a pile of boulders with a large fig tree in groove behind and dead tree stump on platform. The climb starts from this platform. Routes leading to platform: (a) 6m Diff. Up fig tree root and move left to platform. (b) 7m Severe. Right-hand corner of pile of boulders into small sentry box. Hand-traverse left-handed and climb boulders to platform. From platform awkward step leads to wall and 3m of climbing left-handed leads into crack. Follow this line of weakness until quartz band is reached. Move left-handed and up to finish. Alternate finish: (very hard, no protection) move right on quartz and take slab direct.

FA: R. Caulkwell, 1954

VS Trad 20m
11 Epitaph

5m to the right of the start to Cemetery Wall is a thin crack which begins to open at 6m. Start from the tree stump at blank wall. Move up on thin flakes to a old bolt. Layback and jam to the widening of the crack. Strenuous. Continue more easily up the crack. Step right onto face from two moves then back into the crack. Tree belay.

FA: P. Snyder, 1970

HVS 5b Trad 20m
12 Splutterin'

Start up the chimney on the right of Coffin. Ascend chimney and then rightward-trending gully to top.

This line is more obvious than Coffin, so I’d be surprised if it hasn’t been climbed before.

FA: Crushy McCrush Face, 5 Dec 2013

D Trad 17m
13 Mr. Cod

To the left of Coffin’s gully is a slab with a small overhang at 5 m and a bulge above it. Climb directly to overhang, then step left to surmount bulge. Straight up to ledge under roof. Traverse left past end of roof, and then follow gully rightwards to top.

This climb’s actually alright, if a bit short.

FA: Crushy McCrush Face, 5 Dec 2013

VD Trad 21m
14 Doc Hollday

At left end of Mr. Cod’s slab is a shallow chimney which thins and shallowens as it rises until finishing about 6 m up. Climb chimney and then up crack to grassy ledge. Escape upwards through boulders and trees, and then join finishing gully of Mr. Cod.

This is also not terrible, but the good bit is a bit short.

FA: Crushy McCrush Face, 5 Dec 2013

VD Trad 18m

1.8. Fig Tree 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.487632, 37.069839

description

This crag lies about 150m. behind the South Picnic Tree and bars the head of the wide grassy gully. The climbing is steep and good and the rock excellent. The crag is made up of three faces; Fig Tree face is the first with the boundaries as follows:

Fig Tree Face — on the left is a large fig tree and behind it Fig Tree Gully forming the left boundary. The right boundary is the break in the wall forming a line from the summit fig tree to the right-hand end of the overhang at the base of the crag.

Fig Tree Boulder — this is the dark slab below Fig Tree Face where a branch of the fig tree loops over the rock.

Cakewalk Face — this lies directly to the right of Fig Tree Face.

Recommended routes: Turret Wall—D. Le Pelley’s Variation—S. Governor’s Traverse—V.D.

©

approach

Park at picnic tree. This crag lies about 150 yd. behind the Picnic Tree and bars the head of the wide grassy gully. You can walk straight to it.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Turret Wall

Start about 2m to left of fig tree roots on grey buttress. Climb up to go over left-hand end of pear-shaped overhanging block and finish up grassy groove in wall above. An alternate start may be made round corner to left, using tree growing horizontally out of wall.

D Trad 23m
2 Figaro

Start between Turret Wall and Syrup of Figs. A thin crack leads to an easy traverse rightwards for 6m. Prominent cracks then take one up to easier rock above.

VD Trad 23m
3 Syrup of Figs

Start on ledge at right of fig tree.

  1. 9m. Climb white streak 2m right from beginning of ledge. Moving left follow up to large recess and belay.

  2. 9m. Climb out of recess on left wall and directly up to finish on sand coloured tower to right of small bush in horizontal crack.

FA: W. M. Adams & A. Owen, 1958

S Trad 25m
4 Fig Tree Original

Start on ledge at right of fig tree roots.

  1. 10m. Move right along ledge to end and up crack to small scoop. Climb up on easy rock left to large recess and belay.

  2. 13m. Move off right across face.

VD Trad 23m
5 Fig Tree Wall

Start at left of detached block.

  1. 10m. 3m above ground a hand traverse leads left across wall. From this climb directly into groove and then to overhang with thread belay.

  2. 15m. Climb overhang direct and straight on to finish.

FA: R.Caulkwell, 1954

S Trad 26m
6 Scorpion

Start as for Fig Tree Wall.

  1. 10m. Climb up to stand on ledge used for hand traverse. From right-hand corner of ledge across groove to right (peg runner) and climb up wall moving right on series of small flakes to good stance below overhang.

  2. 15m. Continue over overhang and up, moving slightly left-handed to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VS Trad 25m
7 Solo

Start in centre of face to the right of the hand traverse. Follow crack to meet Le Pelley’s Variation and climb the 4m wall. Move left along the large ledge to the vertical crack dividing the overhang above. Climb crack and continue vertically to top.

FA: R.Searle, 1959

S Trad 30m
8 Le Pelley's Variation

Start at left end of overhang.

  1. 15m. Tier of steep rocks leads to traverse under overhang to left up to point of large semi-detached boulder. Ascend wall to fig tree and move right 4m to base of crack and belay.

  2. 10m. Ascend crack and face to foot of chimney with small tree.

  3. 5m. Climb up chimney on right in final block to belay at fig tree.

FA: R. Le Pelley, 1949

HS 4a Trad 30m
9 Astronaut

Start as for Le Pelley's Variation and climb the first 15m of this route to the foot of the crack. Now traverse 4m further right to where an obvious leftwards-rising diedre is reached. Climb the wall immediately on left of diedre, which is very hard at the start but gradually becomes easier until a position is reached below the prominent orange-coloured roof. Climb roof direct some 4m right of the chimney at the end of Le Pelley's Variation.

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1978

E1 5b Trad 45m
10 The Swinger

At the right-hand end of the large overhang there is a vertical crack on the wall above. One peg gains the crack which then goes free. Move left and up to top.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

HVS A1 Trad 28m
11 Governor's Traverse

Start up Fig Tree Original. Traverse along line of quartz, moving right-handed along obvious traverse line. Continue across whole face ending at top of first pitch of Cakewalk. Rather harder for the second at the crux.

VD Trad 60m
12 Upper Traverse

Start up Fig Tree Original to 2/3 up second pitch. Start traversing right-handed across face aiming to go underneath big overhang in middle of face. Series of delicate moves leads to corner below overhang which is crossed. Continue at this level to end of crag.

VD Trad 90m
13 Hanging Down, Swinging Free

A peg route along the overhang, using one bolt. Start at right end and finish up Le Pelley’s.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

A2 Trad 16m
14 The Prune

Another climb may be reached by going well up Fig Tree Gully. On the right is a black wall. Start at point of rock 2m up on right-hand end of wall. Move left across face and finish straight up.

S Trad 10m

1.9. Boulder 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.487840, 37.070128

description

100m slightly right from the South Picnic Tree and almost directly behind it, a grey crag with a large prominent boulder on top. The climbs usually start with a slab and finish with a steep wall.

Recommended routes: Boulder Original—D. Boulder Five—S

©

approach

Park at picnic tree. This is the closest crag to the tree, visible from there with a big boulder on top of a dark grey cliff. Walk about 50m along a trail slightly to your right (facing the hill) to get to it.

©

descent notes

Walk off the left side of the cliff.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boulder One

Start at the foot of a crack to the right of grey buttress-like flake. Continue straight up crack. Tree belay far back.

D Trad 11m
2 Boulder Two

Start behind bushes at right-hand end of small overhang, where there is a small pigeon-hole 1.2m up. Climb to ledge, then move left-handed and ascend final wall. Belay 6m back to boulder.

VD Trad 13m
3 Boulder Three

Start 2m to right of pigeon-hole in Boulder Two on smooth slab. Direct ascent to ledge and then to an almost-detached flake 2m above on wall. Continue direct to top. Belay 6m back on boulder.

S Trad 17m
4 Boulder Original

Start at point of slab below scoop 2m up. From here take easiest route moving slightly right-handed and keeping a few feet right of the broken corner. Move left to finish. Belay at flake 5m back.

D Trad 17m
5 Boulder Five

Start 4m to the right of Boulder Original in middle of very smooth black slab. Climb direct to top, aiming for top of boulder against skyline. Belay on spike of boulder 6m back on right.

S Trad 20m
6 Boulder Six

Start on the right-hand corner of crag from point of almost-detached flake. Keep generally to corner of crag, climb crack to top.

VD Trad 20m

1.10. Jacob's Ladder 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.487305, 37.070134

description

This lies 150m from the South Picnic Tree to the right. It is a well-broken slab with grey lichen and affords some pleasant climbs.

Recommended routes: Jacob’s Ladder—D. Joseph—V.D. (Severe finish)

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then walk to Boulder crag, follow this cliff to the right past Bee Buttress.

©

descent notes

Walk off climbers right

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Outlaw

Start in a small gully where Bee Buttress becomes Jacob’s Ladder Face. Up gully 3m and step right onto slab for a few steps then across left onto small ledge below nose. Take nose direct and mantleshelf into a small broken groove on the bridge of the nose. Move left to finish.

FA: P. Snyder & A. Bosek, 1970

VS Trad 23m
2 Tree Route

Start from base of large-leafed tree on left. Climb up wall, move into slight recess at 9m, continue left-handed and then to tree on skyline.

VD Trad 31m
3 Spreadeagle

Start in groove 5m left of Jacob’s Ladder route. Traverse out onto left-hand wall. Continue climb moving slightly right-handed but not meeting Jacob’s Ladder.

VD Trad 31m
4 Jacob's Ladder

Start at foot of centre slab and ascend line of pigeon holes, moving right. Continue to summit by moving left-handed. An excellent first lead as it can be easily and adequately protected. An intermediate belay may be arranged below the final wall.

D Trad 31m
5 Joseph

Start 12m right of Jacob’s Ladder at prominent band of quartz. Ascend groove, moving left-handed and cross over extreme right-hand point of overhang to finish by moving right. An alternate finish (Severe) is to traverse right into recess behind tree and climb back wall direct.

VD Trad 26m
6 Burglary

The climb goes up the face on the extreme right of Jacob’s ladder just past the fig trees. Climb directly up the centre of the face to a large sloping ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb to a hand traverse. Move left along this past the crux to the corner and up to the top.

FA: R. Searle, W. M. Adams & C. Brown, 1960

S Trad 20m

1.11. Cakewalk 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

This crag lies directly behind Boulder Crag and to the right of Fig Tree Face.

Recommended route: Cakewalk Direct -- S

©

approach

Park at picnic tree. This crag lies about 150 yd. behind the Picnic Tree and bars the head of the wide grassy gully. You can walk straight to it.

©

descent notes

Walk off climbers right and down the gully which will lead to base of Cakewalk/top of Boulder

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cakewalk Corner

Start from top of detached flake at right-hand end of Fig Tree overhang. Climb tier of rocks, step onto wall and up to tree. Continue to ascend left to second tree. Step onto left-hand wall and up to belay at fig tree.

FA: W.M. Adams, 1958

S Trad 30m
2 Cakewalk Direct

Start on sandy coloured tower to left of standard route. 7m - Up tower in middle. 12m - Up red wall on right of gully. 9m - Slightly left to climb ‘cheese rings’ to left hand end of overhang and take this direct. An alternative start may be made up the black groove to the left of the sandy-coloured tower. An alternative finish is to climb through the nick in the overhang to the right.

VD Trad 30m
3 The Cakewalk

Start at right-hand corner. Up groove 6m. Across platform to left and out onto face. Climb this - 12m. Climb to notch to finish - 10m.

D Trad 30m

1.12. Square Crag 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.486778, 37.069585

description

A small crag some 50 yds. behind the top of Jacob’s Ladder. It is lichen-covered on the right with a prominent overhang on the left. Approached by walking up from South Picnic Tree below Cakewalk Face, then right-handed to crag.

Recommended routes: Hypotenuse—S. Vertical—H.S

©

approach

Park at picnic tree then either climb up Boulder Crag and walk slightly to your right (facing the hill) or walk up the gully to Cakewalk Face, then right-handed to Square Crag.

©

descent notes

Walk off.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arc

Follow a line about 3m to the left of the Standard Route. Ascend wall to point of overhang. Climb overhang direct to tree belay.

FA: R. Richardson & P. Le Pelley, 1959

VD Trad 13m
2 Standard Route

Start at foot of slab below hole with thin crack above. From hole move slightly right to ledge at foot of steep wall. Traverse left to easier rock and then back right-handed to large platform with thread runner under overhang. Step out right round corner boulder onto face passing just to left of fig tree to finish.

D Trad 17m
3 Vertical

At very foot of slab some 1m to right of hole ascend smooth slab to ledge and take black wall behind directly to platform. Thread runner. Take overhang direct, above runner, to finish at small fig tree.

HS Trad 16m
4 Hypoteneuse

Start on right behind fig tree at base of groove. Climb groove to below small overhang. Move slightly right and onto the face. Slightly left and pull up to small ledge. From here easier rock leads just to right of fig tree to finish.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 17m
5 Right Angle

Start 3m to left of chimney on north face of crag in small overhanging corner with pile of boulders. Step down 1m to left and traverse left around corner for about 3m. Climb wall direct to top.

FA: R. Richardson, P. Le Pelley, R. A. Bennett & W.M. Adams, 1959

S Trad 13m
6 Rhombus

Start as for Right Angle. Climb crack to small ledge. Ascend face and move out left-handed to belay on summit boulder.

VD Trad 13m
7 Cube Chimney

The chimney on the north face of the crag.

VD Trad 8m

1.13. Lower Cliffs 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.485101, 37.070540

description

This is one of Lukenia's most accessible cliffs, being right beside the entrance road. The crag is characterised by a prominent roof which spans most of the girth of the cliff. Lower Cliffs lie between North and South Picnic Trees and form the base line of the whole hillside. The cliff is generally overhanging at the base, hence the number of aid climbs, although this usually only involves one or two moves.

Recommended routes: Nightmare—S. & A.2

©

approach

This is one of Lukenia's most accessible cliffs, being right beside the entrance road. You can park at picnic tree, then walk back along the road towards the school until you see the face with a prominent overhand. Then head straight for it.

©

descent notes

Walk off the left side of the cliff or abseil off one of the trees ar the edge.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Traverse and Wall

Sheer corner at right-hand end of first overhang. Start 3m to left of corner. A tricky move leads into grassy groove on left. Climb to fig tree move along ledge about 4.5m and take wall direct. Tree belay.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VS Trad 20m
2 Crumbs

20 yards to right of sheer corner mentioned in Traverse and Wall. There is a very steep crack leading to a grassy rake.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Journeyman

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

E3 5c Trad 22m
4 Journey Into Space

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1990

E2 5c Trad 25m
5 Calcutta

The toughest black hole in Kenya...." If we had a four star rating this would warrant the extra star. A beautiful exercise in precision. Start 6m right of Journey Into Space, where an awkward pull up leads to the first bolt. Delicate moves right past a second bolt leads to a difficult step down into the Black Hole. Swing out on wall on right and mantle shelf to ledge and scoop. Pull up bulging wall above to break in overhang. Strenuous moves up overhang (crux), past bolt to difficult exit rightwards. Step right to crack and up to ledge. Easily to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Andrew Pinney, 1990

E4 6a AU:23 Trad 25m
6 Sailing

A totally manky exercise, which is satisfying for the masochist but useless for the quality-seeker. Start about 15m right of Calcutta in an area obvious for its dripping greenery, beneath a bush which grows 6m up the face. Climb to stump then right via horizontal crack to good jug which enables corner to be gained. Up this then step right to ledge. Traverse left 3m and climb directly to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1978

E1 5b Trad 31m
7 Falling-off

Start up Falling-Off Tree (wide spreading fig tree growing on ledge). 4.5m to ledge then ascend tree 3m. Severe move leads to face which is easily climbed direct to finish.

S Trad 23m
8 Fell-off

Up to ledge via Falling-Off Tree. Move right to obvious groove. Move out of groove on right, climb a few feet, then back into groove. Ascend to steep wall, move right to avoid it and traverse back to left-hand crack of groove. Ascend direct to ledge. Climb to right- hand point of overhang, then climb nose of rock to belay at foot of thorn tree.

VS Trad 23m
9 Dawn

Halfway between Cannon and Falling-Off Tree there is a very large scoop about 12m up. Start just right of this at a slight corner in the overhanging base. The tree and a peg enable the wall to be gained. Move left to good holds and straight up to finish.

VD A1 Trad 28m
10 Cannon

Start in deep gully with fig tree growing some way up. 1.5m up gully then traverse left and continue climb to recess. Take wall behind to belay at tree.

VD Trad 26m
11 Gripes

30m to the right of the gully of Cannon is a narrow crack with a small fig tree at its base. 1.5m to the left a small nose of rock leads to a flake with a hole in it. Climb to nettle tree in crack at 7m. Move slightly right-handed up face to finish on ledge with tree some way back for belay.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 23m
12 Gripes Direct

Start at Gripes. Climb diagonal crack with aid from nuts. Reach right when possible and climb wall on jugs to top.

FA: I. Allan & R. Pillinger, 1969

HS Trad 26m
13 Nightmare

Start 9m left of Plinth. A skyhook enables a good channel to be placed in a horizontal slot at 3m. On to wall above on adequate holds, move left and into large scoop. Exit right and to tree belay.

FA: J. Temple & M. C. Watts, 1973

S A2 Trad 25m
14 Pili

Towards the right end of Lower Cliffs, and about 15m left of The Hood, there is a bulging wall with a bolt at 3m. Climb overhang on right of bolt with difficulty (crux). Move up rightwards to second bolt and climb above with difficulty, to reach easier ground.

FA: Olivier Laborie & party, 1985

E2 6a Trad 25m
15 Plinth

Behind the large fig tree is an obvious sentry box above the overhang. Gain this by means of a bolt and peg (both in place). Two peg moves out of the sentry box lead to easy right-handed climbing to the top.

FA: I. Allan & H. Smith, 1968

D A2 Trad 31m

1.14. Upper Cliffs 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.484214, 37.069770

description

To the right of Agama Wall is a distinct gully and Upper Cliffs is the main cliff immediately to the right of this. If the intention is to reach the top of this crag, then all the climbs should be regarded as two pitch routes (or one long pitch). For those who wish to dispense with the easy ground on the upper part of the crag, an abseil cable has been fixed in the narrow gully xx up 'The Lizard'. The routes Frogman to The Joy of Frogs can utilise this cable.

Recommended routes: Original Route—V.D. The Lizard—V.S.

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then a ten minute hike. A sleep path rises left of Lower Cliffs for about 60 feet then traverses rightwards along the top of Lower Cliffs for approximately 150 yards before rising directly to the left-hand end of Upper Cliffs below the obvious crackline of The Lizard. An alternative option is to climb something on Main Wall, then walk left along good paths to the cliff.

©

descent notes

Abseil off the anchor at the top of the Lizard, or walk off.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Double Back

Halfway up Easy Gully on extreme left-hand end of face at the prominent flake. Layback up the flake, traverse 3m to the right and layback up second flake. Take wall direct.

FA: G. B. Cliff & A. M. Waber, 1961

VD Trad 20m
2 Ovid

Start some 6m up Easy Gully where a break-out can easily be made onto the nose on the right. Out to nose and follow line of nose to recess between large flakes at foot of wall (18m). Climb right-hand detached flake, step onto wall which is climbed direct, then move left over final boulder (15m). An alternate start (Severe) may be made. At foot of Gully on right is a sheer corner. Delicate move onto shelf on face leads right-handed to sharp corner which is ascended on edge, leading to easier rock and joining route for first pitch of normal route.

D Trad 34m
3 Traverse

Start as for Ovid. (1) 18m. As for Ovid. (2) 20m. Descend 3m right-handed onto face and traverse to recess for belay. (3) 30m. Rising traverse on good holds leads across difficult corner to very small grassy ledge and belay. (4) 22m. Descend 4.5m into corner below overhang. Traverse below overhang and then rising traverse to finish at foot of clump of bushes.

S Trad 90m
4 Frogman

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

FA: Iain Allan and'@ianhowell, 1989

VS 4c Trad 22m
5 The Hair of the Frog

The ultimate package! About 3m right of Frogman there is a break through the overhang. Layback overhang and cruxy move onto wall. Up to bolt on right. Step left then up to horizontal crack. Step left and continue strenuously leftwards.

2020 edit: At some point several bolts were added to this climb, making it more of a sport climb, maybe 19. Probably does not deserve the grade of E3 5c if these bolts are all clipped.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1989

E3 5c Trad 23m
6 Conan the Frog

Start 2.5m right of The Hair Of The Frog where there is an obvious jam crack up through the overhang. Climb crack to tree stump of The Lizard. Move directly above past horizontal crack and crux move up overhang (bolt). Exit left onto wall 1.5m above bolt, step up, then traverse right 2m and easier ground above to abseil cable.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1989

E1 5b Trad 23m
7 The Lizard

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

FA: Barry Cliff & Anne-Marie Weber, 1961

HVS 5a AU:17 Trad 23m
8 Upper Cliffs Original

Start on face of cliff 2m to left of fig tree root.

  1. 22m. Climb to line of traverse at 3m, traverse left 10m. Ascend to steep sand-coloured wall and move right- handed into scoop. Out on left and right-handed to recess with bolt belay.

  2. 24m. Ascending traverse right-handed passing below grey slabs to notch on skyline; climb left-hand corner to finish. Alternate finish by climbing from recess right-handed aiming for wide grey streak above. Finish on steep thin wall.

VD Trad 46m
9 Cornflakes

Start at tree of Original Route. Climb left of tree to its topmost branches. Step right a few feet and onto small flakes. Follow to a quartz band well above under the overhang. Move left four steps and up. Straight up easier slab to final steep wall. A very direct line.

FA: R. Lazano & P. Snyder, 1970

VS Trad 43m
10 The Joy of Frogs

Start on big block some 7.5m right of The Lizard. The route is just right of the arete. Climb to bulge at 4.5m (bolt), then hard moves up right to jug. Pull up to scoop. Up slightly leftwards, then up to ledge and belay. You are now some 4.5 right of the point where difficulties end on The Lizard. Traverse left to abseil cable.

FA: Iain Allan, Neil Hodgson & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

E1 5b Trad 23m
11 Pilot of the Storm

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1989

VS 4c Trad 46m
12 Stormbringer *

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1989

HS 4c Trad 46m
13 Gone with the Wind

Start just right of the Cornflakes tree stump where a diagonal edge leads up rightwards. Climb wall on right of edge to base of steep wall. Power up this 1m left of bolt to horizontal break, below overhang. Move up overhang until a series of good jugs leads out horizontally rightwards 3m, and pull through overhang when possible. Climb wall above 3m to bolt belay. Up easy wall above to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Chris Ballard, 1989

E2 5b Trad 46m
14 Ride Like the Wind

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

E1 5b AU:18 Trad 43m
15 Idiot Wind

For stout-hearted bachelors only! Start 6m right of Ride Like The Wind where an obvious root rises from the ground, just left of where the main overhang begins. Move up left to overhang. Bolt up on right. Climb overhang in pain just left of bolt and proceed carefully to horizontal break below main overhang. Move up this just left of bolt, then move right along lip of overhang 2.5m until good jugs lead up to bolt belay above. A rewarding excursion.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1989

E4 6a Trad 43m
16 Felicie Aussi

The second should have a back rope for the first 9m. At the right-hand end of Upper Cliffs is a prominent chimney. This superb technical route starts just left of this feature, below a slab, Gain slab easily and traverse left to corner (bolt). Swing around left edge and ascend face above (crux). On up steep rock (bolt), to a final belay bolt. Up easily to top or abseil off bolt.

FA: Herve Sergeraert & Piere Yves Gibello, 1990

E4 6b Trad 31m
17 Slippery Chimney

Chimney behind thick bush at right-hand end of Upper Cliffs.

D Trad 16m
18 Slippery Corner

Start at base of chimney on right wall. 10m - Climb 1.5m and traverse right-handed to point of corner. Ascend direct to belay. 25m - Bands of rock and grassy ledges to finish. There now follows a dark wall with a variety of un- recorded climbs of about V.D. to S. standard before reaching Wide Chimney Boulder.

VD Trad 37m

1.15. Sentry Box 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

This is best approached from the South Picnic Tree and can be seen a quarter right blocking the skyline, with a large boulder on top. Walk up passing Cakewalk Face and right-handed above Square Crag. The main part, being the right-hand face, provides good long climbs and the off-shooting slab on the left a variety of short slab and wall climbs. - Sparsely protected Recommended routes: Sand Wall—S. Boomslang—V.D

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then walk up passing Cakewalk Face and right-handed above Square Crag. You can also access this cliff from the campsite but it's easy to get lost.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake Route

Start at right-hand point of dark wall with scoops above, where there is a large semi-detached flake. Climb flake, move out slightly right and directly up to finish to right of boulders.

VD Trad 16m
2 Black Streak

Start 6m to the right of Flake Route at left-hand joint of rough pile of boulders, a black wall. Thin start leads to flake at 2.5m, take wall direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 17m
3 Thin Start

Walk up ledge between wall and pile of boulders to top of boulders. Tricky start leads to easy rock; straight up to finish. Tree belay.

D Trad 13m
4 The Rack

Start at the right-hand corner of boulders on the ground. Climb to platform and continue on same finish as Pinion - take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

M Trad 13m
5 Pinion

Continue along ledge from Thin Start, crossing small dip and up to top of another pile of boulders. Take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

M Trad 13m
6 Wailing Wall

Start between two large piles of boulders at short wall with projecting boulder in middle. Climb to left of boulder for 3m to platform. From platform climb to wall and move away right-handed to finish.

D Trad 31m
7 Agag's Slab

Start in centre of right-hand pile of boulders. Ascend sandy wall, on which all holds face the wrong way, to platform - 8m. On to wall behind and up slightly right-handed - 30m

VD Trad 38m
8 Sandstorm

Start by big fig tree between Agag's Slab and Sand Wall . Up to niche and slightly right, then traverse left across steep wall, using some doubtful flakes. Up to top.

FA: John Temple & Alan Walker, 1974

S Trad 28m
9 Sand Wall

Start at fig tree some 3m from face. Climb directly to middle of steep sand-coloured wall. Surmount wall to detached boulder. Up and left to summit boulder to finish.

S Trad 30m
10 Orchid Ledge

Start directly below small fig tree under overhang.

  1. 18m. Climb towards fig tree. Move left across slab to take overhang via spike of rock 2.5m left of tree. Climb wall above moving slightly left-handed to convenient stance beneath grey part of wall.

  2. 10m. Climb behind belay and move out left-handed passing small bush and to ledge, then right-handed to finish. The overhang may be taken direct in which case it is Severe.

VD Trad 30m
11 Centre Face

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

  1. 17m. Climb towards fig tree. Move left across slab to take overhang via spike of rock 2.5m left of tree. Move back across wall right-handed and directly to foot of steep sand-coloured wall. Belay.

  2. 6m. Climb wall to wide cave below overhang.

  3. 6m. Move out right-handed to climb point of overhang, then back left-handed to final belay on boulder.

VD Trad 30m
12 Sentry Box

Start as for Orchid Ledge, directly below small fig tree under overhang.

  1. 15m. Ascending traverse left-handed to black water groove. Take wall on good holds. Ascending traverse right-handed to fig tree in groove for belay.

  2. 9m. Move right across face to sentry box with belay.

  3. 14m. Out of sentry box right-handed almost to point of fault where rock steepens. Swing back left- handed following line of fault and up to finish.

D Trad 38m
13 Boomslang

Start below right-hand end of overhang from pile of boulders behind tree.

  1. 14m. Climb to point of overhang then slightly left- handed and directly up wall to belay in sentry box.

  2. 14m. Move out on right and then move left-handed to wall above, which is taken direct, on to slabs to finish.

VD Trad 28m
14 Agrippa

Start below left-hand end of scimitar-shaped overhang under small recessed ledge. (1) 60'. Straight up to flake at left end of overhang—take this on the left and climb onto detached block. (2) 30'. Traverse a few feet left from top of block to left end of steep lichenous wall. Climb this to finish.

FA: T. Spence & M. Lynch, 1970

S Trad 28m
15 Saracen

Start below right-hand end of scimitar-shaped overhang.

  1. 19m. Climb up to the overhang about 2m left of the point. Surmount the overhang to pleasant easy climbing to the detached block stance of Agrippa.

  2. 9m. As for Agrippa. Traverse a few feet left from top of block to left end of steep lichenous wall. Climb this to finish.

FA: M. C. Watts & P. Fox, 1973

VD Trad 28m
16 End Wall

Start at end of large boulder. Fallen from scimitar-shaped overhang. Ascend directly to grassy ledge, then right-handed across slab to deep crack in which there is a bollard. Climb directly above into scoop and ascend wall direct.

FA: Jenkins, Hull & Adams, 1958

S Trad 20m

1.16. Gumshoe 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.485201, 37.068526

description

Lies well behind Sentry Box Crag and is best approached by walking up the gully leading to the left-hand point of Sentry Box, which brings one out on an open piece of level ground. 200 yards half right a grassy lichen-covered face, the right-hand end of which overhangs while the left end tapers down to a gentle slab. Steep climbing on small holds.

Alternatively bestt reached from the Mountain Club campsite on top, from where it it about a three minute walk. An ideal crag for intrepid campers or for those recovering from an inebriated evening barbecue.

Recommended routes: The Accidental Tourist — E1 5a Humpty Dumpty—S.

©

approach

The crag well behind Sentry Box Crag and is best approached by walking up the gully leading to the left-hand point of Sentry Box, which brings one out on an open piece of level ground, then go 200 yards to your right. But best approached from the campsite.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Duchess

Start 7.5m to left of left-hand black streak. Direct ascent of wall.

VD Trad 20m
2 Tweedledee

Start 1m to left of left-hand black streak. Follow slight groove and move out left-handed at steepest point. Belay to fig tree in grassy rake.

D Trad 20m
3 Rattle

Start at groove exactly halfway between two black streaks. Follow groove until wall becomes thin; move out left to reach end of grass rake.

VD Trad 13m
4 Tweedledum

Start 1m to left of right-hand black streak. Climb black streak the whole way.

VD Trad 20m
5 Allegro

Start behind clump of bushes between watersplash and right-hand black streak of pair. Climb 4.5m to ledge. Left along ledge to broken rock just to right of pigeonhole. Above pigeon hole right-handed, then straight to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 22m
6 Andante

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

VD Sport 22m
7 Humpty Dumpty

Start 3m to left of watersplash at tall tree against face with, above, pockmarked waterline running to left of small grassy ledge at 12m. Follow water-mark to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 23m
8 White Rabbit

Follows the water steak shown in the diagram. Start beside tree then move left to water streak and follow to top.

FA: W. M. Adams & F. Richardson, 1959

S Trad 23m
9 Gumshoe

Start between wide watersplash with tree at foot and croton tree on right, directly behind boulder. Follow groove to skyline and top.

VD Trad 22m
10 Step Route

Last climb before corner. Start behind croton tree, follow groove over “steps” higher up.

D Trad 20m
11 Finis

Start in corner with fig tree at left-hand end of overhang. Climb right-hand wall of corner 1-2m away from tree and out of eye of corner then slightly left-handed to finish.

S Trad 28m
12 The Accidental Tourist

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

{FR} 5c Sport 23m, 5
13 The Moronic Inferno

An absolute blaster and intimidating to boot. Start 8m right of Finis corner, where the wall begins to overhang. A bolt can be seen at 6m. Up rightwards to bolt. Cruxy step up left of bolt then right to small niche. Straight up to steep but easier finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

E2 5b Trad 23m
14 Happy Happy Joy Joy

To the right of The Moronic Inferno. Crux between the forth and fifth bolts.

FA: R. Heap & K. Ounsire, 1999

{SA} 25 Sport 23m, 7
15 Happy End

This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...

FFA: Herve Sergeraert

FA: P. Snyder, 1971

AU:23 6c Sport 23m
16 The Italian Dream

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

{SA} 29 Sport 0m
17 Yankeekuyu

At the right-hand end of the overhang at a small slabby buttress. Take a vertical line, step right at a thin spot on the wall, then back left. Finish upper slabs slightly right-handed (crux).

FA: D. Karinga & P. Snyder, 1970

S Trad 28m
18 Pink Panther

A deep crack to the right of Yankeekuyu leads to a ledge at 6m. Directly behind a small tree a short wall leads to a second ledge (crux). Finish up a layback flake.

VD Trad 26m

1.17. Chimney Buttress 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Immediately above Black Slab and in line with Edinburgh Castle is Chimney Buttress. It is best approached by going up the right-hand gully past Black Slab and crossing the top of Black Slab left-handed to the buttress. The whole buttress seems riddled with chimneys and is quite entertaining. The chimney climbing is about Difficult in standard. Much of the original exploration was done by Peter Campbell.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Innominate Crack

The prominent crack in the east side of the buttress seen clearly from the road.

FA: M. Harris, 1966

VS Trad 22m
2 Buttress Crack

Start at crack in north side of crag. Up crack to prominent notch. Either take route into buttress or move left-handed to reach outside of buttress and over easy rock to top.

D Trad 22m

1.18. Window Buttress 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.490679, 37.067568

description

This is a prominent orange-coloured little cliff situated below and to the left of Edinburgh Castle. It is conveniently reached if cars are left at the nearby farm, and a route on this crag leads easily up to the base of Edinburgh Castle above. The Buttress is named after an obvious hole through the cliff on the upper part of Rear Window.

©

approach

The easiest approach is from the bottom of the hill, walking along Egyptian crag and up to Chimney Buttress. Another option is down from Edinburgh castle.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dream Twister

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Jess Grunblatt, 1990

E2 5c Trad 22m
2 Outlook

In the general area to the left of El Duende, clip First bolt of El Duende, move left and over small bulge and up to overhang. Straight through overhang to top. The opener has granted permission for a bolt near the bottom to allow climbers to start left and independent of El Duende.

FA: J. Sampson, 2001

{SA} 26 Trad 0m
3 El Duende

This route is hard to beat Sustained, stylish moves in a superb position guarantee it a place at the top of the best there is at Lukenia. It climbs the orange wait of the obvious prow on the right of Window Buttress. Start 6m right of Dream Twister at a corner crack which is easily climbed for 3m to a small ledge on the right. Make the most of this - it is the last rest on the climb. Two small wires (#2 and #3 RP's), can be rigged here to protect the tricky move up to the first bolt. The route veers rightwards below the first bolt then up to the obvious bulging grey wall which is the crux of the route (bolt on right). Above the grey wall, the climb continues with difficulties to the third bolt. Steep, delicate climbing leads directly above to the top.

FA: Iain Allan, 1991

E3 6a Trad 22m
4 Powerpoint

This exciting route takes the steep face between El Duende and Rear Window, beginning on the corner buttress. Start up right of obvious flake to 15 feet, traverse right onto face below overhang. Up right to obvious ledge/foothold, step left and move up to below overhang: then through overhang up to meet jugs on top (natural pro).

FA: J. Sampson, 2001

{SA} 26 Trad 0m
5 Rear Window

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

FA: Iain Allan, Andrew Pinney & Philip Winter, 1990

VS 4c Trad 20m

1.19. Nemesis 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.472182, 37.075064

summary

Sweet crag with awesome sport routes

description

Nemesis route is the namesake for this crag. While it is a sweet route, there are several great sport lines here. Full sun on the crag in the morning, but by afternoon, it is all in the shade.

access issues

Most of the climbing at Lukenya is on private property owned and managed by MCK (Mountain Club of Kenya). You need to go with an existing MCK member to climb. Non-members pay 800 Ksh per person, members can access Lukenya for free. Contact MCK for a chance to climb this awesome area with lots of trad, sport, and bouldering. Some parts of Lukenya, including Nemesis, are shared with local residents and farmers; be respectful but do not pay anyone besides the caretaker at the Lukenya Academy gate.

approach

After entering the main gate at Lukenya Academy, drive straight through the school, and keep right through a gate, dipping down and back up. Go left past a house along a dirt track going upwards. Nemesis wall is located shortly after this house. Look for the large striped orange and black cliff only a short distance from the track. Park on the side and hike straight up to the base on a path through bush. P.S. You can access a few of the anchors from the top. head around the right side of the crag for an easy walk-up approach to the top.

ethic

As with any climbing and outdoor area, please be kind and whatever you pack in, pack out. Please help extend the life of the anchors by using your own draws/anchors for top rope climbs, and only rappel or lower off the anchors when cleaning.

history

Nemesis was first developed by Iain Allan and Ian Howell, two eminent climbers in the history of Kenya and the MCK in the 1980s in response to growing calls for sport routes in Kenya.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E.T.

On the leftside of the cliff on the brown/orange wall. Up the prow, moving right to the finish. The crux moves between the second and third bolt is as good as any 3* boulder problem in Lukenya. As of 28 Feb 2021 there is no anchor, so either top out or make an extended rope anchor from the tree at the top of the crag.

FA: E. Baron, 1999

{FR} 7b Sport 22m, 5
2 Banana Cheeks

Currently the hardest route in Lukenya and one of the highest quality routes I have ever bolted.

Start on the far left end of the cliff under the obvious right-rising traverse. Work through the traverse culminating on a hard move to a good rest jug. Chalk up and prepare for the V7 crux through steep terrain to perfect jugs above.

FA: Kristofer Fiore, 16 Jan 2020

{FR} 7c+ Sport 18m, 6
3 ???

Route to the right of Banana Cheeks. Sparsely bolted with very hard crux in the middle

Sport
4 Twisted Sisters

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

FA: A. Fiksman, 2000

{FR} 6c+ Sport 25m, 6
5 Jason's route

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

{FR} 7a+ Sport 18m
6 Nemesis

Between Jason's route and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

FA: S. Marlow & W. Dove, 1999

{FR} 6b+ Sport 22m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 K.L.

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

FA: D.D. Gray & Ian Howell, 1971

E1 5b Trad 22m
8 Happy Birthday Piers Wood

On the right face, to the left of the obvious scoop used in Turbulence and As Good As It Gets, is a thin crack that slants up to the left. Very technical moves past the third bolt.

FA: M. Heileman, 2002

{FR} 7b Sport 22m, 5
9 Turbulence

Start 6m right of KL Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

FA: Iain Allan, 2000

{FR} 6c Sport 25m, 6
10 As Good as it Gets

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

{FR} 6a+ Sport 25m, 6
11 As Good as it Gets Direct Start

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

{FR} 6c Sport
12 Faithless

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

{FR} 6b Sport 12m
13 Leap of Faith

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

{FR} 6a Sport 22m, 6
14 Peaches and Cream

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith, it has a tricky start and then stylish moved up to a nice horizontal rail. 2020 edit: After the last bolt there is a small run-out to the anchors on easier ground, of maybe 4 m.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

{FR} 6a+ Sport 22m, 6
15 Smooth

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. 2020 edit: after the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

{FR} 5c Sport 20m, 4
16 Bliss of Nemesis

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Set by Henrik

FA: Henrik, 2017

{FR} 5b Sport 15m, 5
17 Some Like it Rough

Same start as Smooth or it is possible to begin about 2m to the right. Clipping the first bolt of Smooth is definitely offroute. After reaching the first pocket on Smooth, climb a left-lacing crack (will take a cam) about 3m to the right of the bolt and move up and left of an orange dihedral (a smallish wire can be put behind a flake). Continue up steep ground to a horizontal crack (flexi-cam placement) and either move straight up onto a good horizontal ledge or move left and up using good holds and a hanging flake higher up (possible pro here). Exit rightwards.

2020 Edit: This route is probably the same as Bliss of Nemesis, which was bolted without being aware of the existence of this trad route.

FA: C.W. Rechman & C. Ward, 2001

VS 4c Trad 16m
18 Wild Orchid

The story revolves around an attractive reddish diedre, the start of which is about six to eight feet to the right of Smooth and Some Like It Rough. Initially quite easy, one heads up to a prominent ledge on the left side. About ten feet up, a vertical slot on the right can take a large Friend. However, if the Friend is not at hand, slightly higher up there are two bomb-proof wire placements; these are just before surmounting the ledge on the left. At this point the diedre may appear rather smooth and lacking in hand-holds, but by moving slightly right, one is passed the first climax and is comfortably gripping the slithery arête. Sinking one’s hands into the moist cavity just below the hanging orchid garden, one should notice a beautiful side-slot for up to two wires. Some rather exquisite moves follow just to the left of the hanging garden (the second climax), which allow one to grip some gorgeous jugs, although care must be exercised as this point can be rather strenuous. A wire slots into a good hand-rail allowing one to protect the easy, final moves to the finish.

A polite request: the hanging orchid on this climb is a rare and quite beautiful plant (well, it’s beautiful when it flowers); sufficient holds and protection exist to climb the route without disturbing it, so please keep to the r.d. and let’s not destroy it.

FA: Charles Rethman, Andrew Gremley, Cindy Huang & Felix Berg, 2002

{SA} 17 Trad
19 Sheki Legi

Named in honour of a Congolese dance-style that may or may not help in getting up this route. The route follows a ramp that slopes up to the left (very manky RP placement). Move onto the wall (beware of loose holds) and traverse left across the top of a prominent hollow until reaching a good ledge (crux). Surmount the ledge and move upwards (good, small wires) on steep ground with juggy holds to a horizontal crack (good cam) between the 'hanging gardens'. The 'hanging gardens' are wild orchids, so please do not damage (natural pro).

FA: T.W. Mbatia (Ms) & C.W. Rechman, 2000

HS 4b Trad 13m

1.20. Judas and Nimble 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Several hundred yards up the road from Nemesis are two large boulders a few yards from the road. The lower has an obvious bulging crack line. This is 'Judas'. The second boulder has an ascending traverse line. This is 'Nimble'

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Judas

Layback up the crack, then up to roof. Traverse right, then up bulging crack to ledge. Climb lichen bulge above.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1972

MVS Trad 21m
2 Nimble

Start on boulder to the right-hand end of this crag. Step onto the face and follow the traverse line to the tree. Easy rock above.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1972

VS Trad 21m

1.21. Summit Cliffs 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

These are the cliffs to the right of the Castle

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Graceful Chimney

The obvious chimney to the right of Edinburgh Castle with a large tree in its lower part.

  1. 15m. Up chimney, move right past chockstone to belay at tree.

  2. 20m. Move left-handed through bushes and climb blocks 6m to foot of groove, ascend 15m to top.

D Trad 35m
2 Graceless Chimney

Start in right hand chimney. Climb chimney as far as first tree and move right on slab to belay.

VD Trad 14m
3 Never Again Chimney

Start from belay at top of Graceless Chimney, and walk left 6m to base of dark crack. Ascend this.

Alternate HS start: Nice 15 m pitch of crack climbing between Graceful and Graceless Chimney. Second pitch the same.

S Trad 16m
4 Diamond Slab

To right of open, rough, bush-filled gully, a small slab underneath a large boulder. Start to left of pointed rock lying against foot of slab.

  1. 15m. Climb to belay on platform.

  2. 10m. Move 6m right along ledge to awkward chimney leading to top. Alternate start. 15m. (Diff). Start 6m to right where there is a grassy ledge a few feet up. As for (2) to finish.

D Trad 26m
5 Ruby Wall

Immediately to the right of Diamond Slab is a steep wall. Start in centre of wall.

  1. 12m. Climb to obvious flake and then right handed to platform and flake belay.

  2. 6m. Ascend wall behind belay to platform then take small crack up wall on left to finish.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 30m

1.22. White Wall 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

To the north and level with Chimney Buttress, on the top of the gully which runs past Black Slab is a wall topped by an overhang for most of its length.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 White Wall Routes

Three good practice routes for beginners.

D Trad 10m

1.23. Moving Buttress 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Above White Wall and to the right of Ruby Wall lies another short crag, this is Moving Buttress.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Toddle

On left of prominent crack in face. Mantleshelf onto ledge, then straight up.

FA: R. Smith, 1962

S Trad 10m
2 Wobble

Climb first prominent bulge to right of central crack.

FA: R. Smith & M. Roland, 1962

S Trad 10m
3 Doddle

Climb second bulge on face 4m to right of Wobble. Easy start, top harder.

FA: R. Smith, 1962

S Trad 10m

1.24. The Prow 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

At the same level as Summit Cliffs, capped by an overhang with a prominent tree and having an undercut base this crag offers several routes.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Green Hair Arete

Start at the far left-hand end of the crag facing the gully on rising ground. Step right then up the arete.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

VD Trad 14m
2 Creeper

5m left of Leaper, behind tree. Slightly right and straight up a slight depression.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

HS Trad 20m
3 Leaper

Start about halfway along the face where a sharp pointed flake stands away from the face. From the tip of the flake step onto the face and directly up to the left of a shallow ‘V’ groove.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

S Trad 16m
4 Velindra

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

  1. 15m. Five aid moves up crack lead to tension traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

  2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit.

FA: Iain Allan & B. Thomas, 1973

S A2 Trad 30m
5 The Prow

At the right hand end of the face at a flat boulder. High step to gain the edge of the undercut wall, traverse left and up to belay at foot of the chimney. Finish as for Velindra or via chimneys.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

S Trad 23m

1.25. Reedbuck Cliff 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Access is from Kakenyi's farm, the first major cliff on your right as you approach Edinburgh Castle. The middle of the crag has a large overhang with a small cave. On the obvious slab to the left are several routes.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 War of Words

Start about 3m left of corner. Straight up slab on small holds to overhang at 12m. Pull over ledge and easily to top.

FA: Andy Gremley & S. Mills;, 2004

VD Trad 0m
2 Comparing Notes

On the right-hand side of cave is an obvious crack deep in a recess. Climb crack for 4m and hand-traverse to left under overhang. Pull up onto ledge at base of gully, step back onto face above overhang and up to top.

FA: Andy Gremley & S. Mills, 2005

HVD Trad 0m
3 Jawbone

To the right of Comparing Notes is a corner. Start on right-hand side of corner at hole at about 1m. Ascend and slant left around corner, then straight up to top.

FA: Ekya Shah & Andy Gremley, 2005

VS 4c Trad 0m

1.26. Black Slab 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

A quarter of a mile from the South Picnic Tree going left. Beyond Egyptian Crag turn right towards Edinburgh Castle on the skyline. Directly in front is a long dark slab. An excellent place to introduce beginners to balance climbing as several easier grade routes may be tackled in a short time. Leader protection is, however, poor.

Recommended routes: Blackjack—V.D. Black Death—S

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Charcoal

Start just below and to left of corner where slab sweeps down. Climb prominent flake to small tree at 5m and move slightly right-handed to come out on top.

M Trad 13m
2 Black Magic

Start 12m to right of corner at point of slab on small block. From this climb up slab to overhang, climb this direct.

VD Trad 13m
3 Black Death

7m right of small block mentioned in Black Magic is a small crack with a quartz streak in it. Start 1m to the right of this and ascend blackest part of bulge above to underside of slight overhang. Traverse beneath overhang right-handed to finish. A very pleasant, steep climb.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 11m
4 Black Cat

Prominent crack and flake leads to shallow scoop which is crossed to right. From there directly to top.

D Trad 13m
5 Black Vice

The bush-filled chimney directly behind the small tree.

D Trad 13m
6 Black Chimney

Most obvious deep chimney in middle of face. Back up and awkward move leads to left hand wall which is ascended to small overhang at top; this is taken direct.

M Trad 13m
7 Black Steps

Between Black Chimney and the fig tree a simple route leads directly to the top.

M Trad 13m
8 Black Jack

Thin start 3m right of fig tree. Move right-handed clear of tree to finish. A worthwhile route requiring good balance.

VD Trad 17m
9 Black Treacle

Start at very bottom of slab, 3m to left of quartz inset. Climb leads up to grassy gangway from which an obvious route follows series of flakes up face, leading to thorn tree on skyline.

D Trad 26m
10 Black Pudding

From the quartz inset mentioned in Black Treacle mantleshelf onto grassy ledge. Straight up from small bush on right via shallow scoop to top.

D Trad 25m
11 Black Groove

Start at right hand point of overhang. Tricky move leads to ledge above overhang. From there climb continues to groove above, finishing out over left wall of groove.

D Trad 20m
12 Black Peat

Start 1.5m to right of Black Groove start. Up waterchute line and black streak of wall above to finish.

VD Trad 20m
13 Black Knight

An exposed traverse with little protection. Start up Black Steps until at about three-quarter height a thin quartz fault leads rightwards horizontally across the face. Follow this using the thorn tree of Black Treacle as a belay

VD Trad 46m

1.27. Archway Boulder 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

The huge boulders at the top of Archway.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roman Candle

The obvious cleft with remains of a tree in its depths.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

HS Trad 11m
2 Parachute

The steep corner above the small cave 8m right of ‘Roman Candle’. Peg for protection in place.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

VS Trad 11m
3 Nutcracker

The overhanging crack above the cave. Jammed nuts to start, one peg in place.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

VS Trad 10m

1.28. Morning Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

About 150m half-left from the South Picnic Tree and on the right-hand side of Archway Crag is a large open red corner with its top blocked by an overhanging boulder.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Millstone

On left-hand nose. Climb wall direct and move right below boulder to finish.

VD Trad 10m
2 Capstone A

Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish.

VD Trad 8m
3 Capstone B

Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack.

VS Trad 8m
4 Mighty Atom

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

FA: Pete O'Sullivan & Ron Corkhill, 1981

E2 5c Trad 16m
5 Bosstone

Climb the face between Millstone and Capstone.

Worth the effort if you’re already wasting your time on Morning Wall.

FA: Crushy McCrush Face, 5 Dec 2013

S Trad 8m

1.29. Fig Tree Boulder 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

This crag lies about 150m behind the South Picnic Tree and bars the head of the wide grassy gully. The climbing is steep and good and the rock excellent. The crag is made up of three faces; the boundaries are as follows:

Fig Tree Face — on the left is a large fig tree and behind it Fig Tree Gully forming the left boundary. The right boundary is the break in the wall forming a line from the summit fig tree to the right-hand end of the overhang at the base of the crag.

Fig Tree Boulder — this is the dark slab below Fig Tree Face where a branch of the fig tree loops over the rock.

Cakewalk Face — this lies directly to the right of Fig Tree Face.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alpha

On centre of slab to left of branch. Straight up.

VD Trad 5m
2 Beta

To right of branch at foot of right-hand part of face, straight up where there is an obvious layback hold to start.

VD Trad 7m
3 Gamma

Start 2m right of Beta at corner, straight up.

VS Trad 8m

1.30. Red Nose 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

30m behind the finish of Thin Wall is a red boulder with a sloping ledge across the face.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Red Nose

Start on right of nose. Rough crack leads to platform. Easy scrambling to top. Alternate starts are to take the point of the nose direct (Severe) or to pull up onto the ledge then move right to the platform (Very Difficult).

D Trad 13m
2 Fingertips

About 6m left of Red Nose. Mantleshelf onto sloping ledge, move out left and straight up. Fingery.

FA: R. Chambers, R. Pillinger & J. Sinclair, 1969

HS Trad 15m

1.31. Bee Buttress 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.487609, 37.070111

description

Bee Buttress is to the right of Boulder Face. There are then five more climbs before Jacob’s Ladder Face. There might be bees or wasps in the big cave on the left

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then walk to Boulder crag, follow this cliff to the right.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bee Buttress

Small detached buttress between cleft with fig tree on left and overhang with bees’ nest on right. Start on slab which leads to steep broken wall, which is followed to top.

VD Trad 22m
2 Beewise

Start 5m to the left of Theft at a sapling. Avoid the sapling and climb the wall. Traverse left when possible and up the corner to finish.

FA: W. M. Adams, A. Bennett & P. Le Pelley, 1960

VS Trad 17m
3 Batdance

Start 3m left of Theft at small "V" shaped holds. Climb about 4m on small holds then move slightly left (crux), reaching crack. Up overhang and easy to finish.

FA: Magnus Karlsen, Nico Michaelides & Jay Bienen, 1989

VS 4c Trad 16m
4 Theft

Start on top of pile of boulders to right of tree. Climb wall directly into groove, ascend this and final wall.

FA: W. M. Adams & R. Caulkwell, 1958

S Trad 16m
5 Beware

Start 6m to the right of Theft under the middle of the overhang. Step onto the wall and traverse left beneath the overhang to the corner. Climb the corner, move up and slightly right over easier rock to a smooth wall which is climbed direct to finish over an overhang.

FA: W. M. Adams, R. Searle, R. Caukwell & F. Richardson

S Trad 17m

1.32. Forgotten Face 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Perhaps no other cliff at Lukenia is mine deserving of being forgotten as this one. One old aid route has however, been climbed free and warrants mention. To the right of Jacob’s Ladder Face and slightly higher. This appears very vegetated from the South Picnic Tree but on moving closer its right side is found to be clean with a large overhang.

Recommended route: Slipway—HVS 5a

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then head to the right of Jacob’s Ladder Face and slightly higher.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arboreal

Right at the left-hand end of the crag there is a crack with a tree growing at the top and a grey root at the foot. Climb crack to ledge. Follow groove above to grassy slabs and up to tree.

FA: Iain Allan, H. Smith, A. Walker & C. Wilson, 1967

S Trad 25m
2 Easy Street

Start at a detached corner of rock at the right hand end of the long overhang. Climb corner for 5m onto large ledge. Climb wall above keeping to right of thin crack to terrace. Finish over wall above.

FA: Iain Allan, D. Metcalfe & C. Wilson, 1967

VD Trad 25m
3 Split

Start on slab to right of Easy Street. Climb slab until it steepens. Follow up and step left to ledge. Climb bulging wall above by crack, then easy rock to top.

FA: R. Higgins & Iain Allan, 1967

HVD Trad 25m
4 Catastrophical

Start as for Split. Climb slab keeping on right, until wall steepens. Follow wall up to tree. Move back over grass terrace and take overhang above bush.

FA: Iain Allan, I. Bennet, H. Smith, C. Wilson & A. Walker, 1967

S Trad 31m
5 Slipway

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish.

FA: Martin Harris & Dick Metcalfe, 1967

HVS 5a Trad 20m
6 Xtre

At right-hand end of overhang where obvious crack with small fig tree leads to what appears to be good block holds. Peg up into niche.

FA: M. Harris & S. Barrusso, 1967

A2 Trad 20m
7 Eeh!

Just to the right of Xtre where the overhang peters out. Step over bulge on good holds. Crux is steep wall above exiting right to grassy ledge and finishing by tree.

FA: M. Harris, D. Metcalfe & S. Barrusso, 1967

VS Trad 16m
8 Iago

Start beneath quartz band in orange wall at right- hand end of face. Climb small holds for 6m and use peg for aid to reach point of rock at end of quartz. Go up to right keeping under overhang (peg) to tree. Take crack above to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & R. Higgins, 1967

HVS Trad 16m

1.33. Lichen Face 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

This is a rough broken crag with a selection of climbs in the lower grades. Generally they are poorly protected and the rock lichen covered. It is best approached via the gully to the left of Sentry Box Crag and then by crossing rough flatter ground for 100m to the foot of the face. Lichen One to Lichen Three are on a steep sand-coloured boulder some 50m to the left of the face. Immediately to left of gully bounding the left of Lichen Face is a pile of grey boulders, where 'Lichen Two-and-a-half' and 'Lichen Three' are located. The rest of the climbs from 'Rotten' to 'Lichen Chimney' are on the face itself. Recommended route: Lichen Eight—D

©

approach

Lichen face is best approached via the gully to the left of Sentry Box Crag and then by crossing rough flatter ground for 100 yards to the foot of the face.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lichen One

Start slightly right of the middle of the face. Climb wall direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VS Trad 8m
2 Lichen Two

Start on right-hand corner of face of boulder. Climb corner.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 7m
3 Lichen Two-and-a-half

Start just to the left of tree growing out of top of boulder. Step onto quartz block, pull up over overhang onto face of boulder to ledge. From point of ledge step onto wall above and climb to left of rotten tree stump.

FA: W. M. Adams & R. Searle, 1960

S Trad 10m
4 Lichen Three

Start in a corner at middle of boulder foot. Straight up corner 2.5m and right onto ledge; climb wall behind.

M Trad 11m
5 Rotten

Lies on the extreme left of the face to the left of Twin Crack Groove. Climb to horizontal crack, then direct to top keeping left of the large loose flake.

FA: R. Smith & P. Walker., 1962

S Trad 14m
6 Twin Crack Groove

Start at foot of groove in gully bounding left of face.

D Trad 13m
7 Loose Flake Wall

Start on wall 1.5m to left of undercut flakes some way up wall. Cross flakes moving right and then to top.

VD Trad 14m
8 Lichen Six

Start 3m to the right of waterchute line where there is a small flake 3m up on wall. Mantleshelf and continue straight up.

VD Trad 16m
9 Lichen Seven

Start 9m left of tree at base of slab, find watergroove. Ascend this 4.5m then move slightly left to top.

D Trad 20m
10 Lichen Seven-point-five

Up the wall 4.5m to the left of Lichen Eight.

D Trad 17m
11 Lichen Eight

Start directly behind tree. Ascend vertical watergroove.

D Trad 14m
12 Splash

Start some 9m right main waterchute at boulder lying on edge. Climb to boulder, then into groove and out at eye of groove.

D Trad 20m
13 Lichen Ten

Start below pigeon hole. Into pigeon hole, move a few feet left, continue straight up.

M Trad 20m
14 Lichen Eleven

Start in watergroove behind tree, where tree touches rock. Continue to top of crag.

D Trad 31m
15 Lichen Chimney

To the right of 'Lichen Eleven', on the second boulder around the corner of the face, is an open chimney. Awkward move at the base of the chimney leads to easier climbing and platform; further short climb leads to top.

D Trad 13m

1.34. Nettle Tree 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Nettle Tree Face, appropriately named, is to the north of lower Cliffs, the junction being the square corner of the Rood. Descent is easiest by abseil.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Rood

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

FA: Iain Allan, Roger Higgins & Chris Wilson, 1968

E2 5c Trad 25m
2 Graunch

This old route begins 6m right of The Rood. Hard moves up to bolt on right. Step left (crux) and up to easier ground. Step right and up groove to ledge. Traverse right to leftwards rising crack. Follow this to fig tree.

FA: Tony Bennet & party, 1959

VS 5a Trad 25m
3 Graunch Direct

Start as for Graunch but continue in water groove over eye of scoop until faced by unclimbable wall. Move left handed so 2m up left hand water groove. Ascend wall on right direct to tree belay. Easy rock to finish.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VS Trad 31m
4 Tree Route

Start at root of large tree. Climb tree then over flakes to wall. Taking easiest line move slightly right, leaving nettle tree to right, then left to tree. Finish over boulder to top. An alternate start is 1.5m to left of tree in corner.

VD Trad 31m
5 Twin Crack Wall

Start 4.5m right of Tree Route. Thin start leads to scoop at 6m. Move slightly right and ascend twin cracks. Ascending traverse left-handed to red buttress which is climbed on nose to belay.

S Trad 23m
6 Paunch

Start 2.5m left of Flake Route, and layback on to wall. Up steep conspicuous crack and straight on delicately to top.

FA: John Temple & Robin Harper, 1974

S Trad 31m
7 Flake Route

Start on pile of boulders 6m to right of Twin Crack Wall where nettle trees grow in horizontal crack under small overhang. Climb to small pigeon hole. Traverse slightly right to twin pigeon holes then up to wide ledge and move right. Ascend crack on right to easier rock. Traverse left across detached boulder to extreme left edge and ascend to platform. Ascend groove in wall behind to finish.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 25m
8 Camelot

Start on left-hand piece of a broken block below the left end of an overlap which extends to Lancelot, 3m right of clump of nettle trees. Follow a vertical line of holds over the overlap, past a small pocket, to easier ground. Then go up a vague crack to the white-streaked arete on the right. Go up this to a bushy ledge and straight over the overhang on a large hold.

FA: Francis Hllman

FA: Philip Winter and, 1990

VS 4b Trad 28m
9 Guinevere

Start on right-hand piece of the broken block. Go delicately over the overlap trending right to the obvious pocket at 7.5m. Cross easier ground and up to nettle tree, then right to the overhung corner. Up this and exit right by the tree on good jugs to a ledge. Finish up the face above.

FA: Philip Winter & Steve McCormick, 1990

VS 5a Trad 28m
10 Lancelot

At the far right end of the face is a groove with a small fig tree at 4.5m. Climb corner and groove until it peters out, move right-handed on small holds up a series of steps on a flake to platform. Climb wall and groove to finish.

FA: P. Snyder & D. Burkhart, 1970

VS Trad 31m

1.35. Sugar Loaf 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

From the North Picnic Tree half left, Upper Cliffs forms the skyline cliff, showing a dark chimney at the right-hand end. From South Picnic Tree the crag shows as a large crag on the right-hand skyline. On the left-hand side, separated from the main cliff by a large gully is Sugar Loaf., a square, lichenous rock with a prominent central gully.

©

approach

From the North Picnic Tree half left, Upper Cliffs forms the skyline cliff, showing a dark chimney at the right-hand end.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Honey

Start at left-hand end of face at bushy gully. Climb buttress on right beside gully.

M Trad 16m
2 Syrup

Start immediately on left of central gully. Climb straight up.

VD Trad 28m
3 Treacle

Start immediately on right on central gully. Climb straight up to wide ledge, move in towards gully, then straight up to finish.

VD Trad 28m
4 Castor Sugar

Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish.

VD Trad 28m
5 Demerara

At right-hand corner of face a wedge has fallen away to form a groove at back of platform. Start from platform. Climb groove to point, move left onto small ledge and straight up to wide ledge. Above, thin brown- grey wall leads to finish and small tree for belay a few feet away.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 25m
6 Jaggery

Start at right-hand end of platform in Demerara. Vague groove leads right across wall. Ascending traverse along groove until possible to go straight up aiming for little tree at top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 25m

1.36. Agama Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

This area (with Upper Cliffs) has seen much activity during recent years (at time of writing 1991 guidebook) and it is easily reached in about a ten minute hike from the Picnic Tree if the following trail is taken. A sleep path rises left of Lower Cliffs for about 20m then traverses rightwards along the top of Lower Cliffs for approximately 150m before rising directly to the left-hand end of Upper Cliffs below the obvious crackline of The Lizard. Agama Wall is the small, but not insignificant cliff up on the left capped by a large orange overhang. There are three routes on Agama Wall.

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then a ten minute hike. A sleep path rises left of Lower Cliffs for about 60 feet then traverses rightwards along the top of Lower Cliffs for approximately 150 yards before rising directly to the left-hand end of Upper Cliffs below the obvious crackline of The Lizard. Agama Wall is the cliff on the left with an overhand on the top. An alternative option is to climb something on Main Wall, then walk left along good paths to the cliff.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Edge of Sanity

At left-hand end of crag there is a nettle plant growing about 2m up the cliff. Start 2m right of this, where hard moves lead up slightly left, then a hard move right to a jug. The route then continues straight up keeping about 1m right of the edge, to a horizontal crack. Step left then difficult move up to better holds. Follow arete to good belay tree.

FA: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1999

E1 5b Trad 17m
2 Frogs Attack Maggie

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

FA: Magnus Karlsen, Clive Ward & Iain Allan, 1989

VS 4c Trad 17m
3 Frogs In the Wind

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

FA: Iain Allan, Clive Ward & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

HVS 5a Trad 17m

1.37. Wide Chimney Boulder 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

At the extreme right-hand end of Upper Cliffs 150m left from the top of Main Face. A large boulder cracked in two with a tree at the foot of the crack.

©

approach

At the extreme right-hand end of Upper Cliffs or 150 yd. half left from the top of Main Face.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wide Chimney *

Start 9m inside chimney near streak on left wall. Back up facing left until a narrow ledge is reached at 6m. Stand up on ledge, traverse left along it to outside and ridge. Scramble right-handed to top.

S Trad 16m

1.38. Practice Wall 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.479604, 37.071743

description

About 200m right of the North Picnic Tree along the base of the cliff line is a small crag.

Recommended routes: Number Two — V.S. Number Three — S

A 2000 MCK Bulletin mentions a 'new' crag called Sword Cliff with 3 routes, but this is a mistake - Sword Cliff is Practice Wall.

©

approach

Park at North Picnic Tree (Main Wall parking) and head right parallel to the wall along goat tracks.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Number One

Start at left-hand end of crag, some 2m left of sharp corner, at two pocket holds. Move right under bush and take wall above direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 8m
2 Number Five

Start 4m to right of crack mentioned in Number Three.

VD Trad 16m
3 Number Six

Start 2m to right of Number Five where there is a mantleshelf about 1m up. Continue climbing, passing to right of a small bush near the top.

D Trad 16m
4 Number Seven

Start at right-hand end of crag. Up pile of boulders 3m to platform. Traverse left along wide ledge to hole ascend wall above passing to right of bush. Traverse left above bush, straight up to finish.

M Trad 11m
5 Number Eight

Start 6m from right angle junction of blocks at end of face. A minute crack running straight up.

S Trad 8m
6 Number Two / Perfect Tramlines

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VS 5a AU:16 Trad 16m
7 Number Three / Two Into One Does Go

Start 2m to left of 1m dark vertical crack at base of rock. After a thin start move left under middle of red overhang, which is taken direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VS Trad 16m
8 Number Four / Accidents Can Happen

Start immediately to right of vertical crack mentioned in Number Three. Ascend wall direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Trad 16m

1.39. Hyrax Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.479388, 37.071153

description

This is the second tier of rock about 100m directly behind Practice Wall.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Coney Corner

Start at spike of rock to left of middle tree on platform. Climb to platform. Traverse 3m left and take wall direct.

VD Trad 11m
2 Daasie's Delight

Start and first moves as for Coney Corner. Climb middle tree and take wall direct.

VD Trad 14m
3 Kami Crack

Start on right of middle tree. Up crack behind detached flakes to platform and move right to tree then climb wall direct.

D Trad 13m

1.40. Scorpion Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.478422, 37.071062

description

From the North Picnic Tree walk up the gully between Practice Wall and Hyrax Wall until 50m beyond a prominent pyramid-shaped boulder. Immediately on the left is a wall with a wide dark water-streak in the middle, this is Scorpion Wall.

Recommended route: Centipede—S

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Millipede

Start about 6m to left of narrow cleft. Pull up into small crack. Move left to point of buttress and ascend wall above direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

VD Trad 11m
2 Centipede

Start in narrow cleft. Up cleft and then to right-hand wall, move diagonally right and up.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 10m
3 Scorpion

Start in centre of dark waterway part of wall from middle of ledge, there is a small handhold at about 2m. From here to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 10m
4 Tarantula

Start in crack to right of Scorpion. Climb left wall, cross eye of crack and move left again onto wall.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

S Trad 10m
5 Spider

Start 2m to right of Tarantula at top of heap of boulders. Take nose direct and move off left-handed.

VD Trad 10m
6 Fly

Start 3m to right of pile of boulders on Spider at recess. Step onto broken shelf on right at 2m and climb wall direct.

D Trad 10m

1.41. Dunman's Face 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Some 400m north of the North Picnic Tree at the base line of the cliffs are three very broken rock ribs. Dunman’s Rib, the centre of the area and Dunman’s Face, the right-hand rib, offer climbing. The left-hand rib offers nothing worth mentioning.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dunman's Rib

Start at foot of gully on right of rib. Climb to first large platform. Follow main rib line until a steep wall is reached, which may be taken on left. Continue up rib. Top section may be taken on left by a chimney or from some 3m to right of nose. An alternate start may be made up the crack splitting the nose of the rib. Break out left after some 2.5m.

D Trad 76m
2 Dunman's Face

Start at left point of foot of slab. Climb to right point of overhang. Continue to scramble up wide face until 3m steep wall is reached. Belay and take this directly, or avoid it by moving left. Continuing, the climb runs out to a grassy gully. An alternate finish is to move left across the gully and take the awkward-looking wall.

D Trad 76m

1.42. Not-So-Main Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.482637, 37.070446

description

The slabby, very vegetated continuation of the southern end of Main Wall (towards picnic tree). Only has one known route estbalished on it, called 'Why Bother?' which maybe gives you a hint as to why.

©

approach

Same as for Main Wall, but keep going left at the base of the wall.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Why Bother?

Start at bottom of leftward-rising corner, just before ground drops away leftwards. Climb below or in the corner (as vegetation allows) until corner reaches dodgy sapling on dusty ledge. From sapling, climb directly into scoop and up wall on hollow flakes.

FA: Crushy McCrush Face & Will Anderson, 18 Nov 2013

VD Trad 40m

1.43. Baboon Cliff 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.471835, 37.075420

description

Small yellow coloured crag right of Nemesis. With a massive rebolting and new route effort by visiting American climbers this is now the best beginner sport crag in Lukenya and one of the most accessible sport crags in the country. In general the routes are short and featured and offer excellent opportunities for fledgling leaders to learn the ropes and clip some bolts. The increased traffic should keep the baboons (and thus the baboon poop) away!

©

approach

Hike as for Nemesis but cut right off the trail 30 feet from the cliff.

©

descent notes

The left side routes have hook anchors - just clip in as for quickdraws and lower off these. Those on the right side have two-bolt anchors with maillons - when cleaning lower off these but watch out for rope kinking. Whenever toproping make your own anchor - do not toprope off the hooks or maillons, as this will wear through the hardware over time.

©

history

Originally 4 bolted routes were installed by Ia Westman and Asa Forsman. Those routes were chopped by an unknown party. In January 2020 the original routes were rebolted/repaired and 7 more sport routes were added. The old routes have 3 bolts, the modern ones have 4 or 5.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rainbow Country

First climbed in a downpour sporting a beautiful rainbow over the Athi Plains. lt lies on the buttress to the right of Nemesis Crag; a long, very yellow cliff that gets gradually steeper from left to right. Start the climb on the left hand side where a slab leads up to a long, deep horizontal crack. Follow the crack line right for a few metres until you are underneath a fig tree. Then make a move up out the crack onto the face and onto the top (natural pro).

FA: B. Lyons & M. Buonajuti, 2001

D Trad
2 Lemon Squeezy

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman

{FR} 3 Sport 15m, 3
3 Viti Vipi

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

FA: Emilia Smith, Luke Mendola & Kris Fiore, 13 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Sport
4 Tangawizi

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman

{FR} 4b Sport 15m, 3
5 Fickle Pickle

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 13 Jan 2020

{FR} 4c Sport
6 Supu ya kuku

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

FA: Luke Mendola, Emi Smith, Kris Fiore & Emilia Smith, 13 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Sport
7 Mambo Mamba

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 4b Sport
8 Heebie Jeebies

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 5a Sport
9 Sleazy Greasy

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

FA: Asa Forsman & Ia Westman

{FR} 4b Sport 15m, 3
10 Si Rahisi

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

FA: Asa Forsman & Ia Westman

{FR} 4c Sport 12m, 3
11 Nyani gani?

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

FA: Luke Mendola & Kris Fiore, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 4c Sport
12 Dapper Flapper

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 14 Jan 2020

{FR} 5b Sport

1.44. 4th buttress from Nemesis 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

4th buttress from Nemesis

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dignity Lost

A two-move wonder but worth the visit for those two moves. The 4th buttress up the hill from Nemesis, it is the obvious one an the corner. The face has lichen all over with a dark, clean band up it. Start on the far right of the face as it's undercut to the left. Use the sloping holds to get through the overhang and pull around on lichen-filled holes. Traverse the break on lichen to the dean band and follow it to the top (natural pro).

FA: W. Frost & S. Mills, 2001

{SA} 20 Trad

1.45. Campsite 0 routes in Feature

1.46. Bouldering in Lukenya 202 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.460228, 37.068359

description

Lukenya has a lot of bouldering, and much more to explore!

approach

We divided the bouldering into several areas: - Campsite: at the top of the Lukenya hill, near the campsite. Short walk, good landings some highballs. - Nemesis: around the Nemesis sport crag. Quite a variety of boulders scattered around the bushes. - Picnic tree: close to the carpark that's at the end of the road (near boulder crag). A few classic/historical boulders with many variations. - Watertower: the other side of Lukenya hill. That's the prime bouldering location in Lukenya. - Far ridge: on top of Lukenya hill, but going East, away from the campsite. Several clumps of boulders with much more to explore.

history

People have probably been scrambling on boulders at Lukenya for thousands of years, and if you're lucky you might stumble upon some Batwa cave paintings or archeological dig sites (look for NVJM/ painted on the rock) under some boulders. The first recorded evidence the MCK librarian has found of modern bouldering as we know it though is from 2005, with some hard lines being established by Peter Horsey and Felix Berg (who also holds the speed record for the Standard Route on Nelion). Since then there have been a few waves of development, and the pace has picked up from around 2015.

©

1.46.1. Campsite Area Boulders 47 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -1.485143, 37.068764

description

Some boulder near to the campsite. Perfect for a morning warm up after camping or when you've had too many drinks. There's also some challenging test-pieces too.

The biggest most obvious clump of boulders near the campsite includes The Roost, Whale's Mouth, The Wave, Oversized Block and Satellite Dish boulders. Others require a bit more searching, see the individual boulders for locations and descriptions.

approach

Park at the MCK campsite on top of Lukenya hill then set out on foot.

1.46.1.1. B-Shug 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483645, 37.068880

description

A low flat boulder split by a crack down the middle. Only problem so far is a V4 up the left-hand arete at this crack.

©

approach

From campsite go diagonally down towards the top of upper cliffs, B-Shug is the first boulder you should come across.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 B-Shug

Starts deep in a hole and climbs out arete. Tops out to the left. Boulder to right is off.

FA: Nathan Brand

V4 Boulder
1.46.1.2. Ball Scratcher Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Up the hill from the little house on the praire go into the woods at the base of a cliff with a large chimney running through the middle. Find the steep overhanging arete.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ball Scratcher

Start and the bottom and work your way up the arete.

Boulder
1.46.1.3. Bottom Feeder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Hike to gully to warmup area. As soon as you reach the gully take the gully uphill for 50 meters.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bottom Feeder

As soon as you reach the gully take the gully uphill for 50 meters. Start on crimps on left side of boulder. Climb up two hard moves to topout.

FA: Nathan Brand

V7 Boulder
1.46.1.4. Dump Truck 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483484, 37.067405

description

Beautiful big boulder a couple hundred meters from the campsite car park. Walk down past the poo sign and to the right to Nightcrawler. Go pasrt this and into the trees behind, keep going on animail trails and you should come to a small rocky plateau and Dump Truck boulder. If in doubt follow the pin.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dump Truck

Start low on obvious crimps, navigate to the big horizontal rail then a huge move up to the higher horizontal slot above, and easy top-out

FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017

{US} V5 Boulder
2 Lot Lizard

Start to the left of Dump Truck, on wide crimps. Two powerful moves to a top out to the left of dump truck.

FA: Nathan Brand, 1 Mar 2017

{US} V5 Boulder
3 Truck Stop

Start one move in from Dump Truck on obvious horizontal. Navigate right to a big move and an easy top out.

FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017

{US} V3 Boulder
1.46.1.5. Falling apart 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483990, 37.069530

description

One of a handful of boulders down the hill from the campsite. Nice problem with an unfortunately placed tree in the way of the topout. DO NOT cut or damage the tree - FA was done without doing so, you can too.

©

approach

Go down the hill from the campsite, past B-Shug and keeping right for about 300 m. Follow the pin!

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Through the tree

Follow the crimps up the left-hand side of the face, and struggle over or under the tree branch at the top.

FA: Eric Ducroix

{US} V4 Boulder
1.46.1.6. Giant shoe 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.485143, 37.068985

description

Boulder hidden in the bushes below Gumshoe. Potential for a hard, high line going up rather than traversing right on Lone Boat for a brave, strong soul! Getting off the boulder is a little tricky - traverse along the boulder at the top, climb up onto it then off the backside.

©

approach

From the campsite walk down the path to Gumshoe, and go into the woods slightly, Giant Shoe is about 50 m down the slope.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lone boat

Sit-start on the far left of the boulder, get established on good hand-holds and traverse on these to top out on the small boulder on the right.

FA: Eric Ducroix, 1 Jan 2018

{US} V3 Boulder
2 Iceberg

Crimpy sit-down start.

FA: Eric Ducroix, 1 Jan 2018

V4 Boulder
3 Jack, don't let go

Round the side from iceberg, good warm-up. Pretty vertical on crimps. Don't let go!

FA: IanT, 30 Mar 2020

{US} V1 Boulder
1.46.1.7. Little House on the Prarie 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.482955, 37.070178

description

Great boulder with a few top-class problems on a 30 degree overhanging face, from V2-V5 (plus some easy but slightly heady slab problems on the back). One of the best boulders at Lukenya.

©

approach

From the campsite, walk down the road for about 100 m before heading down the hill on the right. Little House on the Prairie is a decent-sized boulder near the edge of a cliff, with a slab on the cliff-facing side and a distinctive juggy rail zigzagging up the overhanging side. If in doubt follow the pin.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Treehugger

Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off!

FA: Andrew Andress

V1 Boulder
2 Laura

Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish.

FA: Andrew Andress

V3 Boulder
3 Log Cabin Proposal

Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger.

FA: Michele Leone

V5 Boulder
4 Wood Stove

Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger

FA: Nathan Brand

V4 Boulder
5 The Blind One

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

FA: Nathan Brand

{US} V3 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Donovan McSlabb

Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple)

FA: Andrew Andress

{US} V1 Boulder
1.46.1.8. Night Crawler 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.484098, 37.068078

description

First boulder on the right off the path with the poo sign from the campsite car park.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Back Bone (project)

Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you. Tricky one to spot and pad.

On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler.

BoulderProject
2 Night Crawler

Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece.

FA: Nathan Brand (stolen from Andrew Andress), 1 Feb 2017

{US} V6 Boulder
1.46.1.9. Oversized Block 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483314, 37.068177

description

Part of the same group of boulders as the Wave and The Roost.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kenyan Cowgirl

Crouch start below and right of the horizontal crack on a pinch and an edge, moves left following the crack and then goes straight up.

FA: Nathan Brand

V4 Boulder
2 Kenyan cowsmallboy

Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl.

FA: Nathan Brand

{US} V0 Boulder
1.46.1.10. The One with the View 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.484200, 37.069610

description

Part of a cluster of a few boulders in the bushy area between Gumshoe and Upper Cliffs. This boulder overhangs a slab which drops away, so spot and climb carefully.

©

approach

Follow the pin! About 5 mins walk from the campsite down the hill on the school side. There is an overgrown almost-trail you can follow most of the way.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quicky

Mental. Traverse left and up on good holds, just don't swing off and down the big drop underneath.

FA: Henrick Reuhkala

V2 Boulder
1.46.1.11. The Roost 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483354, 37.068058

description

The side closest to the campsite of a big group of boulders next to the MCK sign. Easily recognised by a chickenhead at the top of the left-hand side of the boulder.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chickenhead

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

FA: Andew Andress

V2 Boulder
2 Rooster Tail

Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.)

FA: Andew Andress

V3 Boulder
3 Kuku Kienyeji

Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy!

FA: Andew Andress

V4 Boulder
1.46.1.12. The Wave 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483334, 37.068111

description

Highball located to the left of big offwidth in middle of boulder.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ripple

Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right. *It could possibly be a V0 variation if used.

FA: Nathan Brand

V1/2 Boulder
2 Nathan's Project

On the face round the side from Ripple - unclimbed VHard project. Start on obvious holds to the right of the far left arete and climb small crimps to a big move and an easy topout.

BoulderProject
1.46.1.13. Trash boat 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483890, 37.067800

description

Block that looks like a boat (named as used to be next to a pile of trash, which has all been cleaned up now).

©

approach

From campsite car park, take the path towards Nightcrawler boulder next to the poo sign, then pass Nightcrawler and into the trees beyond, Trash Boat is about 50 m behind.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trash boat

Low start on compression of the block that looks like a boat near a pile of trash. Compress your way up to the throne topout.

FA: Nathan Brand

V4 Boulder
1.46.1.14. Upper Roost 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483354, 37.068058

description

Overhanging face on boulder sat on top of The Roost.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Upper Roost Warmup

Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head.

FA: Andew Andress

V0 Boulder
2 Flirt

Start on small crimps on right face of arete on block to the right of upper roost warmup. Landing better than it looks.

FA: Nathan Brand

V4 Boulder
1.46.1.15. Whale's mouth 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483191, 37.068191

description

Overhanging boulder near the MCK sign with a big horizontal crack running through the middle, part of the same big bunch of boulders as the Roost and the Wave. Cuts into the bunch of boulders, mostly traverse and up problems.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mom Pants Traverse

Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse.

V3 Boulder
2 Oversized shorts

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

FA: Lindsey Andress

V2 Boulder
3 Carolyn's baby

Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts.

FA: Andrew Andress

V1 Boulder
4 Whale's mouth traverse

Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts.

FA: Andrew Andress

V3 Boulder
1.46.1.16. Satellite Dish 0 routes in Boulder

description

Small, unassuming boulder just near The Roost, with a couple of low-qualty warm-ups.

©
1.46.1.17. Rookie Rock 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.482103, 37.069334

description

On the way down to Little House on the Prairie, some good beginner or warm-up climbs.

©

approach

Go down the road from the campsite for 100 m before turning right down the slope - you should be able to see a fin-shaped boulder below you; this is Rookie Rock.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Credit Card Warm-up

This is the obvious easiest line on the boulder. It's juggy all the way up and easily doable for most climbers in flip flops.

FA: Probably a Maasai sheperd

VB Boulder
2 Ice Cube

Sit-down start with left hand on rail and right on low crimp, moves up the short problem using slopey compression and crimps. It's a nice lowball.

FA: Andrew Andress

V2 Boulder
3 Dancin' Shoes

Sit-down start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a very low undercling, moves a few moves up the arete and then traverses right across and up a the slab. Avoid going all the way up arete or around on the left side.

FA: Lindsey Andress

V1 Boulder
4 Rookie of the Year

Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder.

FA: John Shunk

V1 Boulder
1.46.1.18. Cereal Killer 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.484419, 37.068207

description

Long, oblong boulder about 3 metres high, good for beginners.

©

approach

Very close to the campsite. Walk down the trail away from the road towards Edinburgh Castle for about 20 m, Cereal Killer is just on the right off the trail.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheerio

Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up.

FA: John Shunk, 6 Sep 2017

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Frosted Flake

Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start.

FA: John Shunk

V1 Boulder
1.46.1.19. Razorback 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.488079, 37.067854

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Razorblade

Start low in the cave on a crimp rail and up to bigger jug (left of razorback start holds). Up and left the steep face on small crimps, avoiding any of the larger razorback holds to the right. Join razorback for the topout only. Would be 3* if not a bit of an eliminate!

FA: Livio van Enckevort

{US} V5 Boulder 5m
2 Razorback

Sit start on low rail. Make big move up to the crimp and commit to the top out.

FA: Nathan Brand

FA: Nathan Brand

{US} V4 Boulder
3 Angelina

Nice warmup for the other two, with an interesting topout. Sit-start on the obvious hold on the right of the boulder, going to another good hold with quite a big move, then up again. Keep your nerve for the topout, the holds are there. Spotter should jump on top of the boulderer if they fall to avoid tumbling down the rock behind!

FA: Andrew Andress, 1 May 2017

{US} V3 Boulder
4 Social Distancing

Beautiful line going up the arete, avoiding Razorback holds until the jug for the topout. Sit start low to the left of the arete, come round to the right of it to a good crimp, then a big move up the slanting crack. Keep it together and go for the finishing jug before the same topout as Razorback.

FA: John Shunk, 19 Mar 2020

{US} V4 Boulder
1.46.1.20. Golden Nugget 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.484605, 37.069658

description

Beautiful golden arete boulder visible from the top of Gumshoe.

©

approach

Find a trail going down the hill towards Picnic Tree from the campsite, behind the rocks. Will probably be overgrown, follow the pin.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Golden Nugget

Crouch start in full compression. Climb the fridge trending left to the top out.

Takes the proud south-facing face and the two aretes. Start with a right hand on the arete on the rigth and a left on a crimp in the centre of the face. Work your way up with compression magic. Spotter for the FA was tied into a rope anchored on a nearby tree to avoid a tumble down the cliff below and protect the climber!

FA: Nathan Brand, 4 Aug 2017

{US} V4 Boulder
1.46.1.21. Whole Tree 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whole Tree

FA: Andrew Andress

V1 Boulder
2 Shunks V0 Boulder
1.46.1.22. Upper Pleistocene Cranial Remains 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.485127, 37.069196

description

Project!

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 First ascentionist gets to name

Take the overhanging crack from right to left. Still unclimbed.

BoulderProject

1.46.2. Nemesis Area Boulders 27 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -1.471048, 37.075015

description

All the boulders within easy walking distance of the Nemesis parking spot. Remember this isn't MCK land so be respectful. Probably lots more potential for exploration in this area, especially going towards Main Wall or further right of Nemesis.

©

approach

Park as for Nemesis then set out on foot for all these boulders.

©
1.46.2.1. Golden Block 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.471926, 37.074539

description

Just up from Nemesis, hidden on the bushes. Golden Block comprises two big boulders, the first is the big face with a large root running along the bottom of it, with V3 highball Fanta Orange. The second abuts this to the left, and is an overhanging arete.

©

approach

Walk up the right side of Nemesis to the top and about a third of the way along it then go into the bushes.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fanta Orange

Starts crouched. Straight up the face on good holds, just don't look down at the top to avoid fantaing your trousers.

FA: Andrew Andress, 1 Apr 2017

V3 Boulder
2 Golden Shower

Same start as Golden Power, bail right around the arete.

FA: Nathan Brand

V4 Boulder
3 Golden Power

Start on arete, make your way left onto face and then straight up through big powerful moves.

FA: Nathan Brand, 1 May 2017

V5/6 Boulder
1.46.2.2. Nemesis Posse 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.472100, 37.075480

description

Little cluster of boulders just before Nemesis and Baboon Cliff.

©

approach

Park as for Nemesis on the right of the road, then take the path towards the cliff. You'll see this cluster of boulder through the bushes and trees on the right - first boulders you come across.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Witness the Weakness

Crouch start with both hands in the big crack, on the left. Go straight up from there, avoiding Weakness Protection Programme which is further right.

FA: Eric Ducroix, 2 Apr 2017

V3 Boulder
2 Weakness Protection Programme

Very similar to Witness the Weakness, but start further right with hand in the big crack and go up slghtly better holds over the top.

FA: IanT, 2 Apr 2020

{US} V2 Boulder
3 Bolt-Free Froggies

Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder.

FA: Emmanuel F, 1 Apr 2017

V2 Boulder
4 Eskeletor

Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete.

FA: 2 Apr 2020

{US} V0 Boulder
5 Lizard Sandwich

Start on the slab on the left. Go up and right.

FA: Emmanuel F, 2015

{US} V3 Boulder
6 Dos

Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish.

Boulder
7 Tres

Start far right and trasverse left and up to finish.

Boulder
1.46.2.3. Paradise ladder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.471940, 37.074270

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paradise ladder

Nice. #juggy

V2 Boulder
1.46.2.4. Horse Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.472480, 37.073860

description

Boulder up and left from the left end of Nemsis. Tick hotspot.

©

approach

Walk up to the top of Nemesis using the usual path on the right, cross along the top of the crag to the left-hand side then walk through grass, bush and ticks up and slightly left.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Farasi / Eor

Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps.

FA: Nathan Brand, 3 May 2017

V2 Boulder
2 Horse Trailer on a Cadillac

Same start hold as Farasi and goes left on a powerful traverse and topout.

FA: Andrew Andress?

V5 Boulder
3 Bigrock Horseman

Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top.

FA: IanT, 2 Apr 2020

{US} V2/3 Boulder
1.46.2.5. Kichwa Kobe 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.468048, 37.075503

description

Easily accessible, high-quality boulder with fun, interesting moves and a good landing.

approach

Walk up from the Nemesis parking or drive a bit further and park off the track opposite the pin.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kilpikonna

Sit-start from a squarish hold under the arete. Powerful first move up to a crack, then easier but fun moves up the arete to finish.

FA: Joel M, 31 Oct

{US} V4 Boulder
2 Touching cotton

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

FA: IanT, 31 Oct

{US} V2/3 Boulder
3 Cigare au bout des lèvres

Not a classic but can be a good warm-up. Stand-start on a horizontal crack on the left of the boulder, then right and up on good holds.

FA: IanT, 31 Oct

{US} V1 Boulder
4 Prairie-dogging

Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top.

FA: IanT, 31 Oct

{US} V2 Boulder
1.46.2.6. Bergmeister 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.468230, 37.076008

description

Short, overhanging boulder with a couple of powerful problems.

history

First developed in 2005 by Felix Berg and consigned to a notebook topo which was lost then found in the MCK library move in 2018. Thanks to Peter Horsey who drew those topos and still had photos and memories of where the boulders are for re-discovery in 2020!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Felix the Cat

A couple of variations on the left-hand side of the boulder, starting stood up at the horizontal rail and mantling. Very short but strenuous.

FA: Felix Berg, 2005

{US} V1 Boulder
2 Berghain

Sit-start on the only real obvious holds through the middle of the boulder. Hard move to get established in the pocket, then hard moves to the top.

FA: Felix Berg, 2005

{US} V5 Boulder
1.46.2.7. Kizunguzungu 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.470430, 37.076247

description

Big boulder not too far from the road, with more fun problems than appears from afar, and some low mantling practice for beginners.

approach

Walk up from the Nemesis parking or drive and park a bit further up on the side of the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mzunguzungu

Better than it looks. Stand-start in the middle of the overhang matched on okay holds and feet high. Get up to the big block and mantle above this to finish up the slab above.

FA: IanT, 31 Oct

{US} V2 Boulder
1.46.2.8. Mabati Roof Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.471776, 37.074574

description

Overhanging roof boulder with one problem through it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mabati Roof

Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb.

FA: Andrew Andress?

V3 Boulder
1.46.2.9. Slabba the Hutt 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.473707, 37.074696

description

Dark-rock slab up the hill from the road, with some nice technical slab problems - good for introducing slab climbing to beginners.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slab in the face

Easiest and most obvious line up the boulder. Stand-start, follow the crack in the middle of the boulder.

FA: IanT & Henrik, 8 Nov

{US} V1 Boulder
2 Slabdash

Stand-start on big obvious holds to the left of the crack line and work your way delicately up avoiding the crack on your right.

FA: IanT & Henrik, 8 Nov

{US} V1 Boulder
1.46.2.10. Dhoruba 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.474055, 37.074662

description

Boulder with one fun little problem if in the area, not too far from the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mvua inakuja

Short but fun problem. Start on lowest usable hold on the arete, one hardish move up to the big flakes, then work your way left along the arete and up to finish.

FA: IanT, 8 Nov

{US} V2 Boulder
1.46.2.11. Shinrin-yoku 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.473295, 37.074569

description

Low overhanging boulder with a couple of short but quite strenuous problems with tricky mantles.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ukiyo

Start matched on the decent rail on the far right of the boulder. Couple powerful first moves up to the lip, then use holds a bit further right for a tricky mantle. Short but esthetic line.

FA: IanT, 6 Dec

{US} V3 Boulder
2 Yugen

On the left side of the boulder. Start on a good rail, then a big move to a decent hold just under the lip. From there find holds further in and mantle.

FA: IanT, 6 Dec

{US} V2 Boulder

1.46.3. Picnic tree Boulders 13 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -1.488940, 37.069535

description

This area contains all the boulders accessible from the picnic tree parking spot at the end of the trail going along the bottom of the crags at Lukenya.

It's probably the most well-known and popular bouldering area, including the classic high-ball Dinosaur Egg, and a fanastic V4 and V5 on the Crown boulder in particular.

©

approach

Park at picnic tree, then walk.

©
1.46.3.1. Dinosaur Egg 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Huge egg-shaped boulder, about 9-10m high. Accessible (and visible) from the road on the way to the picnic tree, a few hundred metres before you reach the picnic tree parking spot. Currently one line on the boulder, but potential for a couple more if you have strong ankles and no amygdala!

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ballz Hot

Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky!

FA: Andrew Andress

V2 Boulder
1.46.3.2. The Crown 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.488840, 37.070344

description

Large boulder with a wide, flat top from a narrower base. In addition to existing routes traverses of increasing difficulty can be put together going around the base and up. The Crown is near picnic tree at the end of the car track going past Main Wall etc. A small trail goes straight down from this area about 50 m to the boulder. If you reach Archway crag you took the wrong path; go back to the cars and take a path lower down.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Joker

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

FA: Andrew Andress

V3 Boulder
2 Final Boss

A sharp and aesthetic traverse of the boulder. Start matched in "The Joker" crack and proceed to make a full traverse of the boulder utilising the features on the main face to the end of the climbable holds marked by a short horizontal crack with a small pocket at it's end. Once the furthest hold right "the pocket" has been achieved, the climber may top out. Note: the top edge of the boulder is off limits. The climber must dance around on the holds and features on the main face and belly of the boulder.

FA: Peter Muambi Naituli, 27 Jul 2020

V5 Boulder
3 Jack

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

FA: Andrew Andress

V3 Boulder
4 Heavy is the Head

To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves!

FA: Tyler Algeo

V5 Boulder
5 All Things Royal

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top.

FA: Andrew Andress

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 For Every King a Crown

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

FA: Andrew Andress

V4 Boulder
7 Let them eat cake

Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions.

FA: IanT, 8 Nov

{US} V3 Boulder
1.46.3.3. Tickfest 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Low featured boulder walking towards main wall from picnic tree. Unfortunately quite a few ticks around the base during tick season! Good to warm up with plenty of eliminate and traverse possibilities.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tickle my fancy

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting as low and as far left as possible then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing.

FA: IanT

V1 Boulder
2 Ticked off

Start on the lowest jugs in the middle of the boulder and top out on the chicken head at the top.

FA: joelm2411

V2 Boulder
1.46.3.4. Un-generic boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

A slabby boulder to the left of the main face. At its base is a narrow gap between it and another much lower and flatter boulder. This narrow gap makes placing pads and protecting from falls a somewhat tricky affair that demands a tad more focus than the average boulder

approach

Bushwhack and follow game trails along the plains between boulder crag and the main face. You will see a large pyramid shaped boulder sticking out of the bush. The 'Un-generic boulder' should be behind this and slightly to the left when faced from the side of Boulder crag.

history

First recorded exploration was done by a group from Climbing Life Kenya on 13th August 2020

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leg day gains

An enticing little slab problem directly above the tiny slot between the neighboring boulder

FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020

V2 Boulder
2 Just grab and smear

Start at the arete and go more or less straight up

FA: Nyamzi Giati, 13 Aug 2020

V0 Boulder
3 Hamstring flex

Start at the arete 'Just grab and smear' and proceed to traverse right into 'eg day gains' and finish up via the latter sequence

FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020

V2 Boulder

1.46.4. Watertower 54 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -1.482132, 37.064389

description

Easy access to dozens and dozens of stunning boulders. Most of them with good landings.

The Watertower side of Lukenya is not owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya, so please respect any instructions given by the landowners. So far bouldering has been well accepted there.

access issues

The Watertower side of Lukenya is not owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya, so please respect any instructions given by the landowners. So far bouldering has been well accepted there.

approach

Turn left just before the Lukenya hill, after the ciment factory, in front of an electricity pole. Then park near the water pump station.

where to stay

Don't camp there.

1.46.4.1. 2 min Boulders 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.489045, 37.063663

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 2 min

Nice. #crimpy

FA: Mathias

V4 Boulder
2 Stolen because of weakness

High, go jugs in left. #highball #juggy

V3 Boulder
1.46.4.2. Angels boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.488470, 37.063950

description

Very tall boulder with a few problems.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Let's hope that there are angels flying around, catch me if I fall

Crimpy highball up the left side of the boulder, on the face.

FA: Michele Leone, 2016

V6 Boulder
2 Angel Crawl

Up the highball on good holds on the right.

FA: Michele Leone, 2 Mar 2016

{US} V1 Boulder
3 Corner

Up the left-hand arete, bailing left before the overhanging top.

FA: Emmanuel F, 2016

V2 Boulder
4 Cracky

Up the vertical crack on the right.

FA: Emmanuel F, 2016

V1 Boulder
1.46.4.3. Baby Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.489600, 37.064040

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Baby slap

#crimpy

FA: Team

V1 Boulder
1.46.4.4. Blasphemy Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.489170, 37.064250

description

A steep boulder with a long prow.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bodily fluids

Start on two small crimpers above the rock. Traverse left and finish as for act of blasphemy. #SD #traverse #crimpy

FA: Michele Leone

V5 Boulder
2 Act of blasphemy

Start with your feet all the way at the bottom of the cave, on the boulder. Hard move to start. Then hard moves. #SD #crimpy

FA: Michele Leone

V5 Boulder
1.46.4.5. Clam 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483780, 37.063170

description

Small boulder with a long rising traverse on good holds.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clammy traverse

Keep going left. #traverse

V2 Boulder
1.46.4.6. Cocktail Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.486318, 37.064860

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No ice

Fast. #traverse #crimpy

V2 Boulder
2 Straight up

Sit-down start, up on crimpy holds.

FA: Nathan Brand, 1 Mar 2016

V2 Boulder
3 On the Rocks

Sit-down start to the right of Straight Up on the little jug past the arrete. Up on crimpy holds.

FA: Nathan Brand, 3 Apr 2016

{US} V2 Boulder
1.46.4.7. Dinner plate Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483450, 37.062140

description

Striking boulder with two rising traverses. You can't miss it.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Knife

Awesome. #traverse

FA: Emmanuel F, 2016

{US} V3 Boulder
2 Fork {US} V3 Boulder
1.46.4.8. Entrance 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.494420, 37.063210

description

GPS location of the entrance to Watertower area

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Entrance

Entrance

FA: No idea

V0 Boulder
1.46.4.9. Gremlins 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.485160, 37.063810

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aloe-ha

Crimpy or juggy?

FA: Emmanuel F & Jenny, 2016

{US} V2 Boulder
2 Leaning Tower

Crimpy or juggy?

FA: Emmanuel F & Jenny, 2016

{US} V2 Boulder
1.46.4.10. Jenga 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.488770, 37.064040

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arete

FA: 2016

{US} V3 Boulder
2 Crack

FA: 2016

{US} V3 Boulder
3 Crack traverse

FA: 2016

{US} V3 Boulder
1.46.4.11. Logger's Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.482120, 37.063340

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chainsaw

FA: Fish, Mathias & Emmanuel F, 2016

{US} V2 Boulder
2 Axe

FA: Emmanuel F, Fish & Mathias, 2016

{US} V2 Boulder
3 Teeth

FA: Emmanuel F, Fish & Mathias, 2016

{US} V4 Boulder
1.46.4.12. Midday sun jungle 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.484480, 37.063790

description

Located within a clutch of boulders a bit of a walk away from the water tower - you need to cross a broken fence and big ditch to find this very overgrown block! Bring a panga.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stingray V3 Boulder
2 Salty chicken, sweet chicken

Face left for salty, and right layback for sweet

V2 Boulder
3 Arrete

no name yet!

FA: Eric Ducroix

V4 Boulder
1.46.4.13. Mighty one 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.483550, 37.065730

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Just one more

Don't look down. Start on the small flake head right to slopers. #crimpy

V4 Boulder