Routes in Lukenya

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 579 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
S Osiris

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Trad 20m Lukenya
S Boulder Five

Start 4m to the right of Boulder Original in middle of very smooth black slab. Climb direct to top, aiming for top of boulder against skyline. Belay on spike of boulder 6m back on right.

Trad 20m Lukenya
M Pinion

Continue along ledge from Thin Start, crossing small dip and up to top of another pile of boulders. Take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

Trad 13m Lukenya
VD Andante

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

Sport 22m Lukenya
VD Tree Route

Start at root of large tree. Climb tree then over flakes to wall. Taking easiest line move slightly right, leaving nettle tree to right, then left to tree. Finish over boulder to top. An alternate start is 1.5m to left of tree in corner.

Trad 31m Lukenya
{US} V1 Donovan McSlabb

Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple)

FA: Andrew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V2 Paradise ladder

Nice. #juggy

Boulder Lukenya
V4 Dan's 8 year-old projet

Sit-start, matched on the big jug on the left. #SD #traverse

Boulder Lukenya
{FR} 5b Bliss of Nemesis

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Set by Henrik

FA: Henrik, 2017

Sport 15m, 5 Lukenya
VD Capstone A

Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish.

Trad 8m Lukenya
VD Joseph

Start 12m right of Jacob’s Ladder at prominent band of quartz. Ascend groove, moving left-handed and cross over extreme right-hand point of overhang to finish by moving right. An alternate finish (Severe) is to traverse right into recess behind tree and climb back wall direct.

Trad 26m Lukenya
{SA} 29 The Italian Dream

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

Sport 0m Lukenya
VD Castor Sugar

Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish.

Trad 28m Lukenya
VD Daasie's Delight

Start and first moves as for Coney Corner. Climb middle tree and take wall direct.

Trad 14m Lukenya
V2 Quicky

Mental. Traverse left and up on good holds, just don't swing off and down the big drop underneath.

FA: Henrick Reuhkala

Boulder Lukenya
{FR} 6c As Good as it Gets Direct Start

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

Sport Lukenya
VD Black Jack

Thin start 3m right of fig tree. Move right-handed clear of tree to finish. A worthwhile route requiring good balance.

Trad 17m Lukenya
D Long Layback

Scramble up crescent shaped gully to tree belay. Using lip of crack for layback, climb to end of crack and final belay.

Trad 28m Lukenya
VS Gamma

Start 2m right of Beta at corner, straight up.

Trad 8m Lukenya
D Lichen Eight

Start directly behind tree. Ascend vertical watergroove.

Trad 14m Lukenya
VD A1 Dawn

Halfway between Cannon and Falling-Off Tree there is a very large scoop about 12m up. Start just right of this at a slight corner in the overhanging base. The tree and a peg enable the wall to be gained. Move left to good holds and straight up to finish.

Trad 28m Lukenya
VD Snake

Start where detached flake rests against small tree at foot of groove with recess on left at 3m. Ascend groove for 6m and move left onto sloping face to platform and tree. Slightly left to small grassy platform. Right and then left to large recess. Aim for right-hand end of summit boulders to finish.

Trad 75m Lukenya
Ball Scratcher

Start and the bottom and work your way up the arete.

Boulder Lukenya
V1 Rookie of the Year

Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder.

FA: John Shunk

Boulder Lukenya
V3 In vino veritas

#SD #juggy

FA: Mathias

Boulder Lukenya
D Isis

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

Trad 23m Lukenya
VD Boulder Six

Start on the right-hand corner of crag from point of almost-detached flake. Keep generally to corner of crag, climb crack to top.

Trad 20m Lukenya
D Wailing Wall

Start between two large piles of boulders at short wall with projecting boulder in middle. Climb to left of boulder for 3m to platform. From platform climb to wall and move away right-handed to finish.

Trad 31m Lukenya
S Twin Crack Wall

Start 4.5m right of Tree Route. Thin start leads to scoop at 6m. Move slightly right and ascend twin cracks. Ascending traverse left-handed to red buttress which is climbed on nose to belay.

Trad 23m Lukenya
D Slippery Chimney

Chimney behind thick bush at right-hand end of Upper Cliffs.

Trad 16m Lukenya
S Eagle's Nest Traverse

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Eagle's Nest Traverse is the third: Climb up to small recess and belay. Traverse across semi-detached flake on left and follow line of weakness across South End. Descend in crack to stance above eagle’s nest. Take wall above stance to finish.

FA: Arthur Firmin

Trad 210m Lukenya
V5 Log Cabin Proposal

Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger.

FA: Michele Leone

Boulder Lukenya
V2 Ballz Hot

Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky!

FA: Andrew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V1 Moja maker Boulder Lukenya
{US} V5 Razorblade

Start low in the cave on a crimp rail and up to bigger jug (left of razorback start holds). Up and left the steep face on small crimps, avoiding any of the larger razorback holds to the right. Join razorback for the topout only. Would be 3* if not a bit of an eliminate!

FA: Livio van Enckevort

Boulder 5m Lukenya
VS Capstone B

Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack.

Trad 8m Lukenya
D Kami Crack

Start on right of middle tree. Up crack behind detached flakes to platform and move right to tree then climb wall direct.

Trad 13m Lukenya
V5 Horse Trailer on a Cadillac

Same start hold as Farasi and goes left on a powerful traverse and topout.

FA: Andrew Andress?

Boulder Lukenya
V2 Chickenhead

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

FA: Andew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V1 Baby slap


FA: Team

Boulder Lukenya

Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish.

Boulder Lukenya
D Graceful Chimney

The obvious chimney to the right of Edinburgh Castle with a large tree in its lower part.

  1. 15m. Up chimney, move right past chockstone to belay at tree.

  2. 20m. Move left-handed through bushes and climb blocks 6m to foot of groove, ascend 15m to top.

Trad 35m Lukenya
D Black Treacle

Start at very bottom of slab, 3m to left of quartz inset. Climb leads up to grassy gangway from which an obvious route follows series of flakes up face, leading to thorn tree on skyline.

Trad 26m Lukenya
M Archway Original

Start on right at point of gully. Simple traverse right leads behind small tree. Climb up moving right then left to the top.

Trad 33m Lukenya
D Splash

Start some 9m right main waterchute at boulder lying on edge. Climb to boulder, then into groove and out at eye of groove.

Trad 20m Lukenya
VD Cannon

Start in deep gully with fig tree growing some way up. 1.5m up gully then traverse left and continue climb to recess. Take wall behind to belay at tree.

Trad 26m Lukenya
V7 Bottom Feeder

As soon as you reach the gully take the gully uphill for 50 meters. Start on crimps on left side of boulder. Climb up two hard moves to topout.

FA: Nathan Brand

Boulder Lukenya
V3 Mom Pants Traverse

Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse.

Boulder Lukenya
VD Bee Buttress

Small detached buttress between cleft with fig tree on left and overhang with bees’ nest on right. Start on slab which leads to steep broken wall, which is followed to top.

Trad 22m Lukenya
VD Agag's Slab

Start in centre of right-hand pile of boulders. Ascend sandy wall, on which all holds face the wrong way, to platform - 8m. On to wall behind and up slightly right-handed - 30m

Trad 38m Lukenya
VD Slippery Corner

Start at base of chimney on right wall. 10m - Climb 1.5m and traverse right-handed to point of corner. Ascend direct to belay. 25m - Bands of rock and grassy ledges to finish. There now follows a dark wall with a variety of un- recorded climbs of about V.D. to S. standard before reaching Wide Chimney Boulder.

Trad 37m Lukenya
{SA} 29 Unknown - That Hard Egyptian Arrete

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. First section is tricky and technical to a large block. Climbing past this block is the crux, with different methods better suiting different heights of climber: either go straight up on poor crimps before moving right, or get a heel-lock and toe-jam in place either side of the block and reach straight for a small but positive crimp up and right. Finish on small crimps to top. Grade subject to debate. Name and FA unknown. Last 3 people to climb the route suggested 26 as the grade.

Sport Lukenya
V4 Wood Stove

Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger

FA: Nathan Brand

Boulder Lukenya
V3 The Joker

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

FA: Andrew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V1 Mohado

FA: Dan

Boulder Lukenya
S Chimney Sweep

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

FA: F. Richardson, A. Owen & W. M. Adams

Trad 13m Lukenya
VD Pink Panther

A deep crack to the right of Yankeekuyu leads to a ledge at 6m. Directly behind a small tree a short wall leads to a second ledge (crux). Finish up a layback flake.

Trad 26m Lukenya
V3 Mabati Roof

Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb.

FA: Andrew Andress?

Boulder Lukenya
V3 Rooster Tail

Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.)

FA: Andew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V5 Bodily fluids

Start on two small crimpers above the rock. Traverse left and finish as for act of blasphemy. #SD #traverse #crimpy

FA: Michele Leone

Boulder Lukenya

Start far right and trasverse left and up to finish.

Boulder Lukenya
VD Graceless Chimney

Start in right hand chimney. Climb chimney as far as first tree and move right on slab to belay.

Trad 14m Lukenya
D Black Pudding

From the quartz inset mentioned in Black Treacle mantleshelf onto grassy ledge. Straight up from small bush on right via shallow scoop to top.

Trad 25m Lukenya
D Standard Route

Start at base of face below apex of groove 2.5m' to right of tree at ground level. Climb left to overhang at easiest point, surmount this and move up to reasonable rock that leads to finish.

Trad 33m Lukenya
VD Cakewalk Direct

Start on sandy coloured tower to left of standard route. 7m - Up tower in middle. 12m - Up red wall on right of gully. 9m - Slightly left to climb ‘cheese rings’ to left hand end of overhang and take this direct. An alternative start may be made up the black groove to the left of the sandy-coloured tower. An alternative finish is to climb through the nick in the overhang to the right.

Trad 30m Lukenya
M Lichen Ten

Start below pigeon hole. Into pigeon hole, move a few feet left, continue straight up.

Trad 20m Lukenya
VD Upper Cliffs Original

Start on face of cliff 2m to left of fig tree root.

  1. 22m. Climb to line of traverse at 3m, traverse left 10m. Ascend to steep sand-coloured wall and move right- handed into scoop. Out on left and right-handed to recess with bolt belay.

  2. 24m. Ascending traverse right-handed passing below grey slabs to notch on skyline; climb left-hand corner to finish. Alternate finish by climbing from recess right-handed aiming for wide grey streak above. Finish on steep thin wall.

Trad 46m Lukenya
VD Cobblestones

Start at foot of buttress bounded by gully on right. Climb to base of crack, then up crack or buttress on right. Ascending traverse right to ledge. Straight up open face to grassy recess. Ascending traverse left to finish.

Trad 67m Lukenya
V2 Oversized shorts

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

FA: Lindsey Andress

Boulder Lukenya
VD Pharaoh's Wall

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Trad 22m Lukenya
VD Gumshoe

Start between wide watersplash with tree at foot and croton tree on right, directly behind boulder. Follow groove to skyline and top.

Trad 22m Lukenya
S Wide Chimney *

Start 9m inside chimney near streak on left wall. Back up facing left until a narrow ledge is reached at 6m. Stand up on ledge, traverse left along it to outside and ridge. Scramble right-handed to top.

Trad 16m Lukenya
VD Number Five

Start 4m to right of crack mentioned in Number Three.

Trad 16m Lukenya
{FR} 6b Faithless

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

Sport 12m Lukenya
{US} V3 The Blind One

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

FA: Nathan Brand

Boulder Lukenya
V3 Jack

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

FA: Andrew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V1 Sit start warmup Boulder Lukenya
D Buttress Crack

Start at crack in north side of crag. Up crack to prominent notch. Either take route into buttress or move left-handed to reach outside of buttress and over easy rock to top.

Trad 22m Lukenya
VD Coffin

Start in gully left of slab at foot of grey tree root. Climb to platform, move up right-handed to poor stance and belay at 35'. Traverse left across face to good holds and ascend wall until under point of boulder on left. Pull up on jugs to finish.

Trad 17m Lukenya
D Standard Route

Start at foot of slab below hole with thin crack above. From hole move slightly right to ledge at foot of steep wall. Traverse left to easier rock and then back right-handed to large platform with thread runner under overhang. Step out right round corner boulder onto face passing just to left of fig tree to finish.

Trad 17m Lukenya
V4 Kuku Kienyeji

Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy!

FA: Andew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V5 Act of blasphemy

Start with your feet all the way at the bottom of the cave, on the boulder. Hard move to start. Then hard moves. #SD #crimpy

FA: Michele Leone

Boulder Lukenya
S Never Again Chimney

Start from belay at top of Graceless Chimney, and walk left 6m to base of dark crack. Ascend this.

Alternate HS start: Nice 15 m pitch of crack climbing between Graceful and Graceless Chimney. Second pitch the same.

Trad 16m Lukenya
D Black Groove

Start at right hand point of overhang. Tricky move leads to ledge above overhang. From there climb continues to groove above, finishing out over left wall of groove.

Trad 20m Lukenya
VD Archway Direct

Start at point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground. Move right-handed to platform, ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish in bushy trees. Abseil from here Two alternate starts may be made: Superdirect and Supersuperdirect.

Trad 20m Lukenya
D The Cakewalk

Start at right-hand corner. Up groove 6m. Across platform to left and out onto face. Climb this - 12m. Climb to notch to finish - 10m.

Trad 30m Lukenya
D Lichen Eleven

Start in watergroove behind tree, where tree touches rock. Continue to top of crag.

Trad 31m Lukenya
VD Tree Route

To the right of the face a slight gully appears. Start a short way up gully on left-hand wall. A broken line leads to a wide grassy ledge which is followed to above eye of gully. Move left and continue to large platform with tree. Left and up to finish.

Trad 72m Lukenya
V1 Carolyn's baby

Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts.

FA: Andrew Andress

Boulder Lukenya
V3 Stingray Boulder Lukenya
S Sand Wall

Start at fig tree some 3m from face. Climb directly to middle of steep sand-coloured wall. Surmount wall to detached boulder. Up and left to summit boulder to finish.

Trad 30m Lukenya
D Step Route

Last climb before corner. Start behind croton tree, follow groove over “steps” higher up.

Trad 20m Lukenya
VS Gangplank

The climb traverses in under the large overhang and then up the corner to the left of Bandstand. Sometimes has hornets.

  1. 30m. Up slabs to left-hand end of roof. Big block to belay from.

  2. 15m. Traverse under roof until ledge narrows awkward step right to ledge; with aid from peg gain second stance of Bandstand.

  3. 15m. Step left across corner and up wall on good holds above overhang.

Or HS A1 without going free

FFA: Emmanuel F & Max Weiner

FA: I. F. Howell & I. Sandilands., 1968

Trad 60m Lukenya
D Number Six

Start 2m to right of Number Five where there is a mantleshelf about 1m up. Continue climbing, passing to right of a small bush near the top.

Trad 16m Lukenya
{FR} 7a+ Jason's route

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

Sport 18m Lukenya
Back Bone (project)

Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you. Tricky one to spot and pad.

On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler.

BoulderProject Lukenya
V5 Heavy is the Head

To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves!

FA: Tyler Algeo

Boulder Lukenya
M Charcoal

Start just below and to left of corner where slab sweeps down. Climb prominent flake to small tree at 5m and move slightly right-handed to come out on top.

Trad 13m Lukenya
HS Vertical

At very foot of slab some 1m to right of hole ascend smooth slab to ledge and take black wall behind directly to platform. Thread runner. Take overhang direct, above runner, to finish at small fig tree.

Trad 16m Lukenya
M Lichen Three

Start in a corner at middle of boulder foot. Straight up corner 2.5m and right onto ledge; climb wall behind.

Trad 11m Lukenya

Showing 1 - 100 out of 579 routes.

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