Nodes in Eagle's Nest

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Eagle's Nest

From the South Picnic Tree Cemetery and Eagle's Nest cliffs form the upper skyline. Walk up the gully behind the Picnic Tree and then left-handed to the base of the cliff. The whole area lies to the left of the gully of Fig Tree Face with the two very large fig trees at the foot. The face consists of two parts the break being at the angle of the cliffs between Epitaph, the right-hand climb of the Cemetery and Eagle’s Nest Crack, the left-hand climb of Eagle’s Nest Face. The climbing is mostly steep and clean with good rock. These are not beginners’ cliffs.

5c Striptease

A genuine "sport-climb" at Lukenia! Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top. 2021 edit: 3 bolts on a 30 m climb is not really a sport climb by modern standards! This is more of a mixed climb, and a few nuts and small cams wouldn't go amiss for the start or top section - best to be comfortable with run-outs if not.

VS Eagle's Nest Crack

Start 2m to the right of fig tree root.

  1. 27m. Climb bulge, moving right to root-filled crack. Move along crack to second fig tree (runner). Cross eye of crack to face below block and pull up over block on good holds to platform.

  2. 9m. Ascend wall behind in the centre.

E2 6a Exhibition Wall

Right up there with the best. Climb the face 3m right of Eagle's Nest Crack and over a slight bulge to the root. Move up to scoop, step left, up to bolt. Climb up rightwards (crux), to horizontal crack then left to vertical crack and follow this to top.

E3 5c Anglepoise

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

E3 6a Savage Waltz

Best climbed when cliff is in the shade. Start 30' right of Anglepoise just left of a prominent boulder on the ground. Climb bulge and layback crack to a small tree. Swing right and layback (crux) to a niche. Follow horizontal crack right to easier ground.

E1 5b Pig's Ear

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

HS 4b Thin Wall (original)

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

  1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

  2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

S Thin Wall (Gable Finish)

Start as for Thin Wall Original.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 10m.. Climb slightly right-handed to left point of the Baboon Traverse overhang. From here to tree on left at foot of sentry-box.

  3. 10m. Climb sentry-box direct to finish over slab at top. Belay to boulder some way back.

S Baboon Traverse

Start as for Thin Wall Original. A traverse line.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 17m. Traverse right-handed below overhang where, at 8m a flake runner may be found. 9m further on, below line of traverse, is a large semi-detached block with fig tree for belay.

  3. 14m. Rejoin line of traverse and then to foot of tree growing out of overhang, climb down across corner to large fig tree for final belay.

E2 6a Owl Crack

This climb was originally climbed as an aid route by Barry Cliff and John Hull in 1963, and it then lay dormant until Henry Barber climbed it free in 1978. The first moves off the ground and the daring sequence across the final roof were the crux sections of the route. In 1989, without realising it had been climbed free, Herve Sergeraert did the route adding a more direct (but easier) way between the initial difficulties and the finishing roof which has become known as the "Paradise Variation''. During this ascent Herve placed a bolt on the roof, which Barber had originally led with nuts. The route is best done incorporating the Paradise Variation, but if it belongs to anyone it must surely be Barber. Start about 9m right of Thin Wall where there is an obvious edge. Three very hard moves up an overhanging wall then step left to the foot of crack. Climb up right along crack and shallow corner to Baboon Ledge. Traverse 3m right to big groove below the roof. Up groove then right (bolt), across wall. Join the pillar and climb the slab on its right.

VS Hangover

Start 2m to left of roots of fig tree at right-hand end of Eagle’s Nest Face. Small crack with tiny fig tree in it leads to ledge on left. Move left to point of corner. Strenuous move leads to corner which is climbed direct to foot of tree under overhang. Ascend overhang direct and finish over easy slab.

HS 4a Plunge

Start on tree to right of Hangover. Ascend wall and up to obvious cracked overhang. Climb this directly and exit on left. Up easily to belay on top of slab.

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