Nodes in Forgotten Face

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Forgotten Face

Perhaps no other cliff at Lukenia is mine deserving of being forgotten as this one. One old aid route has however, been climbed free and warrants mention. To the right of Jacob’s Ladder Face and slightly higher. This appears very vegetated from the South Picnic Tree but on moving closer its right side is found to be clean with a large overhang.

Recommended route: Slipway—HVS 5a

S Arboreal

Right at the left-hand end of the crag there is a crack with a tree growing at the top and a grey root at the foot. Climb crack to ledge. Follow groove above to grassy slabs and up to tree.

VD Easy Street

Start at a detached corner of rock at the right hand end of the long overhang. Climb corner for 5m onto large ledge. Climb wall above keeping to right of thin crack to terrace. Finish over wall above.

HVD Split

Start on slab to right of Easy Street. Climb slab until it steepens. Follow up and step left to ledge. Climb bulging wall above by crack, then easy rock to top.

S Catastrophical

Start as for Split. Climb slab keeping on right, until wall steepens. Follow wall up to tree. Move back over grass terrace and take overhang above bush.

HVS 5a Slipway

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish.

A2 Xtre

At right-hand end of overhang where obvious crack with small fig tree leads to what appears to be good block holds. Peg up into niche.

VS Eeh!

Just to the right of Xtre where the overhang peters out. Step over bulge on good holds. Crux is steep wall above exiting right to grassy ledge and finishing by tree.

HVS Iago

Start beneath quartz band in orange wall at right- hand end of face. Climb small holds for 6m and use peg for aid to reach point of rock at end of quartz. Go up to right keeping under overhang (peg) to tree. Take crack above to finish.

Showing all 9 nodes.

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