Routes in Lower Cliffs for selected grade

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

The toughest black hole in Kenya...." If we had a four star rating this would warrant the extra star. A beautiful exercise in precision. Start 6m right of Journey Into Space, where an awkward pull up leads to the first bolt. Delicate moves right past a second bolt leads to a difficult step down into the Black Hole. Swing out on wall on right and mantle shelf to ledge and scoop. Pull up bulging wall above to break in overhang. Strenuous moves up overhang (crux), past bolt to difficult exit rightwards. Step right to crack and up to ledge. Easily to top.

Towards the right end of Lower Cliffs, and about 15m left of The Hood, there is a bulging wall with a bolt at 3m. Climb overhang on right of bolt with difficulty (crux). Move up rightwards to second bolt and climb above with difficulty, to reach easier ground.