Nodes in Baboon Cliff

Small yellow coloured crag right of Nemesis. With a massive rebolting and new route effort by visiting American climbers this is now the best beginner sport crag in Lukenya and one of the most accessible sport crags in the country. In general the routes are short and featured and offer excellent opportunities for fledgling leaders to learn the ropes and clip some bolts. The increased traffic should keep the baboons (and thus the baboon poop) away!

First climbed in a downpour sporting a beautiful rainbow over the Athi Plains. lt lies on the buttress to the right of Nemesis Crag; a long, very yellow cliff that gets gradually steeper from left to right. Start the climb on the left hand side where a slab leads up to a long, deep horizontal crack. Follow the crack line right for a few metres until you are underneath a fig tree. Then make a move up out the crack onto the face and onto the top (natural pro).

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

Climb direct to the vertical tree root that drops from the roof at 5m. From here, continue direct to the tree root above - don’t be tempted off route by the root whose route continues to the right before rejoining the route at the tree root above. Continue direct through the Y of the tree to belay from the root at the top of the route, or the big tree behind.

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

Climb the faint arête to the right of 'Dapper Flapper'.