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Description

Frog has over 100 established single-pitch routes but the best routes are in the higher grades. All the routes are easy to find and are very accessible as they are numbered. Near Frog lie two other crags worth noting: Ndeiya and Embarabal have hundreds of one and two pitch climbs of varying grades.

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Access issues

Please check with the MCK before climbing there as access is sensitive. The land is partly used by the army and persmission is required before going from the commanding officer at the time. Some climbs are off limits during firing practice.

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Approach

About an hour driving from Nairobi. On the other side of Ngong Hills from Nairobi. This turnoff should take you on dirt tracks towards the army base and cliffs: -1.4136067417468494, 36.597425743975855.

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Where to stay

With prior permission from the army, camping is sometimes allowed at the base of the cliffs.

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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History

History timeline chart

In the early 1980's the Kenyan climbing scene was considerably improved by the arrival of a colourful Frenchman - Claude Dufourmantelle. It was not long before Claude found "his" crag and, mainly in the company of his sons and visiting friends from France, quietly began to climb the obvious lines. Rumours of Claude's activities started to reach the ears of other Mountain Club climbers, who quickly dubbed the area "Frog". Claude never had a problem with the derogatory nature of this name, for he had, after all, preempted other Nairobi climbers by finding a climbing area of great value. By the time other climbers started taking an interest in Frog, Claude had climbed many of the natural lines.

Ian Howell and lain Allan visited the area in 1984 and 1985 with Claude, and two significant routes, The Naked Edge (Howell and Dufourmantelle) and Cutlass (Allan and Dufourmantelle), were climbed. In June 1986 lain Allan produced A Lie Of The Mind, still one of the best routes at Frog. Claude left Kenya in 1987. During this period, and following Claude's departure, Niall MacHugh was very active at Frog. With a number of climbers, most notably with his brother Barry, Niall repeated some of Claude’s early routes, and established many of his own. Bazooka was a worthy addition at this time.

The focus of climbing attention during the late 1980’s settled on Lukenia, where new routes and soaring standards were the order of the day. This period of great intensity started in 1988 and did not end until 1991. Local attitudes towards climbing ethics changed, and bolts opened up previously unclimbed areas of rock where no natural forms of protection existed.

With the security of a bolt climbers were able to push their standards higher than ever before. The age of the drill reached Frog towards the end of 1991, and a fine crop of new routes utilising both bolt and natural protection were climbed. Ian Howell produced Moby Dick, Incubus, and The Road To Hell, while lain Allan accounted for The Liberator, Partisan , Trader Horn , Flight Of Fancy, and Calling Elvis. Ulf Carlsson’s The Day After also fell at this time. Visiting U.K. climber, Pat Littlejohn, inspired and motivated local climbers with his testpiece Sword In The Stone (no bolts).   In 1994, climbers started to look at Frog's blank walls, and sport climbing came of age in Kenya, lain Allan showed the way with World Gone Wrong and Percolator, and Ulf Carlsson quickly followed with the brilliant Shock The Monkey and Ricochette. The beginning of 1996 proved to be an important time at Frog and consolidated its reputation as a premiere sport climbing area. Rusty Baillie arrived from the U.S. and spent a total of 8 days working out Legends Of The Fall. Rusty finally led his route, which at 25 was unquestionably the hardest climb in Kenya at the time. Inspired by Rusty's performance, lain Allan then embarked on a frenzied climbing binge, and in one month produced Dead Man Walking (24), Cat People (23), Flight Of The Phoenix (23), and French Kiss (21).

Sport climbing will continue to be the future of Frog, where blank but climbable areas still remain.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

This crag doesn't have any sub-areas or routes yet!

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This crag does not have any routes listed!

We really need somebody who knows this crag to tell us what sectors, cliffs, boulders and routes that are in this crag- just the names and grades at this stage. You may use our web interface or throw it into an excel spreadsheet and send it to us. You will be attributed and earn lots of Karma points. If you are a publisher then we can use your copyright.

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Activity

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