Kangonde Rock

  • Grade context: UK


A forgotten area of one pitch routes with rock like Lukenya.



This is a single crag of Lukenya type situated just over 50 miles from Thika along the Kitui - Garissa road. The crag lies to the North ' of the main road hut only a few yards from the road leading north to cross the Tana river to Embu district. However, there may he some road realignment in this area as the road is part of the route to the Seven Forks H.E.P. scheme. Two routes, Merry Climb and Blessed Gate were put up in 1965 6y James Mbithi and Tony James. It has not been possible to identify these routes with certainty from the descriptions in the New Climbs Book but the names have been given to the two routes which appear to fit best. The other 8 routes were added in 1967 and there are no more obvious lines. The routes at the left can easily be climbed in one pitch. Only route 10 is over 120 feet although more rope may be needed to find good belays at the top on 8 and 9. The crag is -well worth a visit. (descriptions from "Outlying Crags" guidebook around 1970)


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At the left hand end which is the normal way down is a slab which can be climbed almost anywhere.

FA: C.G. Powell, 1967

At the left hand end which is the normal way down is a slab which can be climbed almost anywhere.

FA: C.G. Powell, 1967

At the left hand end which is the normal way down is a slab which can be climbed almost anywhere.

FA: C.G. Powell, 1967

Start just to the left of two big holes. Move up a slab and climb the steep wall on good holds to ’where the angle eases. Here the holds run out so a traverse left is made until holds arrive and lead upwards to easier ground.

FA: M. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1967

Start just below two big holes. Move up to the first hole and leave it on the right where holds lead up the steep wall to easier ground.

FA: M. Harris, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1967

Start to the right of some flakes leaning against the crag. Up the slab and pull with difficulty over the bulging wall (reach may be an advantage here). Finish up the crack line on the right.

FA: R.D. Metcalfe & G. Draper, 1967

Start up a slab leading to a crack and groove which are followed to the top.

FA: T. James & J. Mbithi, 1965

Start up a black streak below a crack which is difficult to enter but then leads more easily to the top.

FA: I. Howell, M. Harris & B.D. Metcalfe, 1967

Start below ahole at 15 ft. with a crack above. At about half the height of the cliff this crack ends and the climb finishes up a slabby wall.

FA: T. James & J. Mbithi, 1965

Start by scrambling up to a large ledge below the big overhangs, (good bivi spot) Climb the slab on the left and then traverse left to a platform in a cracked groove. It may be possible tc reach this point by a direct start. Follow the splendid crack line to the top.

FA: M. Harris, C. Powell & J. Powell, 1967


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