A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1. Lower gorge 23 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lower gorge 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -1.391877, 36.804473
description
A series of crags next to a river. Depending on river levels you might need to abseil down to get to some of the climbs.
access issues
Unknown
approach
There's a barbed wire fence between the cliff (which is on the north side of the river) and the road which makes access complicated. The only way we found to access was to descend somewhere around Rolf's place (either about 50 meters further than Rolf's place where there's a trail that gets down the rive) or next to the bridge (tricky and bushy) and then walk up the river. Previous access was to descend the tricky 'Easy Way Down' or abseil 'Stingo' from the big fig tree.
ethic
If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!
Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Battleship arete
First long arete | VD | ||||||
| 2 |
Dimension
Big chimney, finish right | S | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Do or do not
Anchor your boat to the roots of the small, or traverse from the slab to the left of the route. A few big moves to the left of the buttress allow a step to the right, and a few more moves get you on easier ground. FA: Emmanuel F & climbingfish, 25 Apr 2021 | VS | ||||||
| 4 |
★★★ Showboat
Climbs the obvious crack in the middle/right of the face, to the left of the corner. A boat might be needed to reach the start unless you find a way to abseil down. Establish yourself under the small tree (roots are in), then follow the steep cracks to the top (or to the hanging tree to lower down). FA: climbingfish, 25 Apr 2021 | VS | ||||||
| 5 |
Gingers' dream
A boat might be needed to reach the start unless you find a way to abseil down. Start to the right of the corner at the bast of the crack that goes under the roof. Follow the crack to the roof, then step right to less steep ground, and continue to the top. FA: climbingfish & Emmanuel F, 25 Apr 2021 | S | ||||||
| 6 |
Archway buttress direct
Front face via small bush | VD | ||||||
| 7 |
Knicker Twister
straddle the wide chimney, finish left | S | ||||||
| 8 |
Easy Way Down
slab and groove, hidden holds at bottom | M | ||||||
| 9 |
Chock Nine
big chimney, finish right | VD | ||||||
| 10 |
Stingo
straight up the wall | VS | ||||||
| 11 |
Bee Nest Groove
climbed only by honey gatherers | |||||||
| 12 |
Hors d'ouvre
twisting crack | S | ||||||
| 13 |
Doubting Thomas
thin finger cracks | S | ||||||
| 14 |
Jims Chimbley
big chimney, left at top | VD | ||||||
| 15 |
Galileo
mantleshelf, belay at chimney chock finish right arete | VS | ||||||
| 16 |
Speleo
behind tower through hole | M | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Tower of Pisa Direct
up front slope | D | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Cannon Ball
downstream crack between Tower and wall | VD | ||||||
| 19 |
Ripoff
up corner crack | VD | ||||||
| 20 |
★ Reclamation
thin crack to ledge, finish left or right | S | ||||||
| 21 |
Cookscomb pinnacle
other side, mantleshelf up wall behind | D | ||||||
| 22 |
2-4-D
oft or right or right cracks behind Cockscomb | VD | ||||||
| 23 |
Parklane
up face on right aide, finish over the top block | VS | ||||||
         |
||||||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| M | Easy Way Down | ||||
| Speleo | |||||
| D | Cookscomb pinnacle | ||||
| ★ | Tower of Pisa Direct | ||||
| VD | 2-4-D | ||||
| Archway buttress direct | |||||
| ★★ | Battleship arete | ||||
| ★ | Cannon Ball | ||||
| Chock Nine | |||||
| Jims Chimbley | |||||
| Ripoff | |||||
| S | Dimension | ||||
| Doubting Thomas | |||||
| Gingers' dream | |||||
| Hors d'ouvre | |||||
| Knicker Twister | |||||
| ★ | Reclamation | ||||
| VS | ★★ | Do or do not | |||
| Galileo | |||||
| Parklane | |||||
| ★★★ | Showboat | ||||
| Stingo | |||||
| ? | Bee Nest Groove |