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Bouldering in Lukenya

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Description

Lukenya has a lot of bouldering, and much more to explore!

Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

We divided the bouldering into several areas: - Campsite: at the top of the Lukenya hill, near the campsite. Short walk, good landings some highballs. - Nemesis: around the Nemesis sport crag. Quite a variety of boulders scattered around the bushes. - Picnic tree: close to the carpark that's at the end of the road (near boulder crag). A few classic/historical boulders with many variations. - Watertower: the other side of Lukenya hill. That's the prime bouldering location in Lukenya. - Far ridge: on top of Lukenya hill, but going East, away from the campsite. Several clumps of boulders with much more to explore.

Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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History

History timeline chart

People have probably been scrambling on boulders at Lukenya for thousands of years, and if you're lucky you might stumble upon some Batwa cave paintings or archeological dig sites (look for NVJM/ painted on the rock) under some boulders. The first recorded evidence the MCK librarian has found of modern bouldering as we know it though is from 2005, with some hard lines being established by Peter Horsey and Felix Berg (who also holds the speed record for the Standard Route on Nelion). Since then there have been a few waves of development, and the pace has picked up from around 2015.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Campsite Area Boulders boulder field
47
79
5m
40
Nemesis Area Boulders boulder field
27
42
14
Picnic tree Boulders boulder field
13
28
9
Watertower boulder field
54
6
37
Far Ridge sector
61
106
5m
33

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