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Whale's mouth

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 12
4
BLDV

Seasonality

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F
M
A
M
J
J
A
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D

Description

Overhanging boulder near the MCK sign with a big horizontal crack running through the middle, part of the same big bunch of boulders as the Roost and the Wave. Cuts into the bunch of boulders, mostly traverse and up problems.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse.

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

FA: Lindsey Andress

Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts.

FA: Andrew Andress

Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts.

FA: Andrew Andress

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