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Golden Nugget

  • Grade context: UK
1
BLDV
V4

Description

Beautiful golden arete boulder visible from the top of Gumshoe.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

Find a trail going down the hill towards Picnic Tree from the campsite, behind the rocks. Will probably be overgrown, follow the pin.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Crouch start in full compression. Climb the fridge trending left to the top out.

Takes the proud south-facing face and the two aretes. Start with a right hand on the arete on the rigth and a left on a crimp in the centre of the face. Work your way up with compression magic. Spotter for the FA was tied into a rope anchored on a nearby tree to avoid a tumble down the cliff below and protect the climber!

FA: Nathan Brand, 4 Aug 2017

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