A good cluster of boulders, including some new hard testpieces and the potential for more development. Mostly good landings and close to the parking spot near the Mulwa campsite.
A nice little area of two rocky outcroppings off the main Lukenya ridge, with scenic views over the plains below (if you ignore the quarrying). The rock quality is great, shade can be found throughout the day by picking and choosing your boulders, and there are generally good landings. Easily enough problems for a few good sessions. If you are climbing harder than V5/6, there is maybe potential for some very hard lines left of the Bahari boulder established lines.
Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).
©Drive towards Nemesis, but go right instead of left past the little house after the school. Keep going, keeping left through the plains with the rocks on your left until you come to a campsite with some bandas. From here go right and park either at the first point the track goes right, at another camping spot, or further down the track at the top of the next outcrop.
Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.
©Boulders first developed and recorded in 2021.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)
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