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The Knob

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 2
2

Summary

The knob to the right (east) of the Arobaini face, split by a couple of offwidth cracks.

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Access issues inherited from Ma-Voloni

No access issue so far, but this is contingent on good relationship with the locals. Please check with the MCK before going. Sadly, there has been a theft in 2019 by young boys (4 meters of rope cut, a phone, food...) so don't leave your things unattended.

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Approach

Park as for Arobaini. The crag can be seen from here - follow goat trails to the base.

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Ethic inherited from Ma-Voloni

Please do not give out money to locals - if you want to contribute buy food and snacks from the local stalls. Kids will likely follow you around and walk up your boulder project barefoot - keep an eye out to make sure they don't hurt themselves!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

The route follows the obvious crack from the ground to its end for 55 metres.

From the top of the crack a pitch of easy, unprotected slab climbing leads to the summit.

This is a sustained and serious climb (not just for the lead climber) and caution should be taken with loose rock.

Protection: there are two bolts on the second pitch, but the main protection is with natural gear. At least one 6.5 cam or similar should be carried to avoid extreme run-outs.

FA: Alex Fiksman & Alex Anderson, 5 Dec 2020

A right leaning groove about five metres to the right of In Vein.

Not the jam crack that we expected, but another off-width/ layback climbing.

Climb the groove above the first bulge, then aid gently through the roof for about three metres.

Continue free to the top. Large gear in the form of 5, 6, 6.5 cams are essential, as little else is available. From the ground climb for 35 metres to bolt anchor, then up to summit as per In Vein.

FA: Alex Fiksman & Alex Anderson, 5 Dec 2020

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