Ndeiya Guide

Near the south end of this crag a buttress stands out prominently from the main cliff. The first climb finds an entertaining and generally not difficult route onto and up this buttress. Start right of the buttress at the foot of the leftward slanting corner 5 m from the main corner. Climbed in the 4 pitches below on the FA in the 60s, but several pitches can probably be combined into one, depending on rope drag.

1. 12 m - Climb with difficulty - or a shoulder - into the crack which leads to a large ledge and block belay.

2. 6 m - Traverse left to the end of the ledge out onto the buttress.

3. 15 m - Climb the crack to a platform. Traverse left until it is possible to pull up by a small tree into a crack, then up this to the huge platform forming the top of the buttress, a fine exposed pitch.

4. 6 m - The obvious weakness in the wall above.

Very Severe with two aid moves.

Start in the corner below the wide crack just to the left of Giant's Steps, or up pitch one of Giant's Steps.

1. 12 m - Climb the corner chockstones to reach a ledge (Very Difficult).

2. 15 m - Move right to below the triangular overhang and up cracks to a large block. Use a peg to move up and throw a nut into the crack above and to the left. Pull up on this and use a peg and a wedge (unsure if still there in 2020) to reach a ledge on the right. Strenuous moves up using a small tree lead to a belay.

3. 12 m - Up the crack behind, still strenuous.

Start 6 m feet to the right of the start of Giant’s Steps.

1. 6 m - Climb easily to the sloping ledge at the foot of the slab. Belay on right.

2. 20 m - From the centre of the slab move diagonally left up the edge of the slab; delicate, crux. Up to the top of the slab and then via a loose block up to the right along an awkward ramp to the foot of a chimney.

3. 14 m. - Climb the chimney, behind the first chock and outside the final one

Start - A large chimney to the right of Troll’s Wall behind a tree.

1. 24 m - Up the chimney which is better than it looks at the bottom, and in a superb position and well protected at the top.

2. 15 m - Step down to the right and traverse to the end of a large ledge. Continue to Gog.

Start - A large chimney to the right of Troll’s Wall behind a tree.

1. 24 m - Up the chimney which is better than it looks at the bottom, and in a superb position and well protected at the top.

2. 11 m - Climb the steep crack above (HVS pitch - Severe climbing before this). The corner above pitch one which on the first ascent required jammed nuts, a shoulder, a held foot and a peg above the V. Slings in the peg make it relatively easy for a second.

Start - To the right of the last climb is a prominent grey slab about half the height of the crag, the climb begins in the corner on the right of this slab.

1. 15 m - Climb the corner, or the left edge of the slab, move left to a large ledge and up to a smaller one.

2. 15 m - The left-hand of two weaknesses abovr, each with a projecting block, gives a good finish.

Variation

1. (a) 18 m - The arboreal corner left of the grey slab gives moderately athletic climbing.

A good strenuous climb. Start a few feet right of Gog to the left of the tree on Harambee.

1. 24 m - Up the groove onto loose looking blocks. Bear diagonally right to a large, rounded block below the obvious chimney crack. Move right and lay away onto good hold enabling the top of thin chimney to be gained. Step right again and up the crack to a large eloping ledge.

2. 6 m - The awkward layback crack above.

A delightful climb on very solid rock. Start a few feet right of Gog on a rib leading to a tree on the overhand above.

1. 18 m - Jug handles lead diagonally right past a big tree to the tree on top of the overhang.

2. 15 m - The narrow chimney above, the crux, provides an excellent problem Fat Man's Finish For those who find the chimney too narrow.

3. a. 12 m - 2. Move right to the end of the ledge and up the wall to a ledge with a shrub. Continue up the right hand corner which leads unexpectedly to the top.

Start 12 m feet to the right of Harambee where a narrow chimney leads to a prominent tree root at 30 feet.

1. 30 m - Climb the narrow chimney to the root. Break out to the right over the overhang and move right until a return can be made left to the final crack which is climbed with difficulty.

Start - The crack about 8 m to the right of The Plumb.

1. 24 m - Up the crack to the overhang. Move left up the wall and then back right to the crack and up this to the top.

Start 3 m right of Prune

1. 30 m - Climb the rightward-slanting groove to reach pleasant slabs. Move right around blocks and take the right-hand crack above them stepping left at the top.

Start at the extreme south (left) end of the lower tier on a steep red crag at a prominent platform.

1. 15 m - Climb to the platform, lake the crack up the right wall on good holds on hollow sound rock. Move right onto the nose, exposed, and up through a tree (runner) onto a ledge.

2. 15 m - Climb the larger of two cracks, which has a tree at its foot, over a bridge on good holds to where the crack splits into a V, step across to the top of the right hand crack onto a boulder and ascend the nose on the right. The rock on this pitch is fragile and should be handled with care, hence the name.

In the middle of Machakos Crag is a prominent large flat wall undercut at its base, a break in the lower tier leads up to near the foot of it. The wall is named “The Shield". The climb follows its right edge more or less and its multiple variations are the result of three ropes converging on the same bit of rock. The wall has obvious possibilities and the climb described will probably have its starts and alternative starts and finishes used by other routes.

1. 18 m - either: climb a short crack just left of the edge, hand traverse left and mantleshelf into another crack line-, move back right and up a little way and then move back left to climb a little nose on superb holds in a fine position; alternatively, just on the right of the ridge make a pull up onto the ridge and up until it is possible to move out to the nose. The ledge reached is broad and has a thick bush on its left.

2. 15 m - Three alternatives:- (a) Climb the slab left of the bush and then move right unto the chimney; (b) Take the centre of the slab behind the belay and move left to climb directly up the nose on the right of the chimney; (c) An easier line up slabs on the right.

Start above a small cave in red rock at the top of the grassy break.

1. 30m Climb the vegetated corner turning a block on the left to the foot of a small wall. Climb the wall and pleasant chimney above. The pitch could be broken at the wall or the foot of the chimney.

Rock requires care in places. Start -At the centre of the buttress is a narrow chimney a little right of a tree growing on the face.

1. 15 m - The chimney is difficult until a large hold on the right wall is reached. Climb the wall and move left to the foot of a steep groove.

2. 15 m - The shallow line of weakness right of the groove is more difficult than it looks.

Start in the corner crack 8 m to the left of the White Spot.

1. 15 m - Up the crack until holds on the left wall are reached. Up these to a large ledge with a huge flake. Step onto this and climb the wall above to a large block belay at the Junction with Jamhuri.

2. 15 m - 2nd pitch of Jamhuri.

Start - Just to the left of the white spot is a groove 20 feet up a smooth wall with pocket holds leading in from the left, near the start of the Scab.

1. 18 m - From the crack on the left a thin traverse gains the base of the groove. Go up to reach a ledge using a peg to get onto this. Strenuous moves up to the top of the groove and a peg beneath the overhang leads to a tree. Up to a ledge.

2. 9 m - Up the crack behind with a struggle through the sapling.

Start at a chimney to the right of the white spot and to the left of a big block.

1. 24 m - Up the chimney and left over doubtful flakes. Up and left into a groove and up to a small tree. Continue past a ledge to a second ledge with a belay on the left.

2. 12 m - Up the crack with a shrub in it finishing up the rib on the right.

Start as for white spot ordinary.

1. 9 m. - Climb the chimney to the top of the detached pinnacle.

2. 15 m - The blind groove on the wall is climbed for 3 m, then swing left and up to overhand. Move left and up, then diagonally right to the top. A very pleasant pitch. Sparse protection according to 1967 guidebook, maybe different with modern gear.

The large corner chimney. Very difficult for 6 m and then a walk with a problem at the top.

Start between Capstone Chimney and the large tree.

1. 12 m - Up to the left to a shrub covered ledge and then up to a tree in a corner.

2. 18 m - Move right and up the edge of the buttress (hard) or swing into bushes on the right. Up over ledges to good finishing holds.

Start between Capstone Chimney and the large tree.

The next prominent feature is a 35 foot long roof halfway up the cliff with a cave behind it. Start 3 m left of a slanting groove leading to the left end of the overhand at the foot of a vertical groove. The climb lies up this groove in two pitches.

1. 18 m - Climb the groove to a stance below a short wall.

2. 18 m - A few good moves up the wall on the left, then the groove and slab above.

Start at the foot of the slanting groove leading into the cave. lM> ft. - Climb the chimney and slanting groove moving on$o the pleasant slab R 1 al i Ighl. Large block belay below the cave. SJF 60 It - Climb over the belay into the cave and up the groove just inside the cave.

Start just right of the overhand 12 m right of Durin’s Chimney.

1. 18 m - Climb cracks and grooves to the large tree. Belay.

2. 9 m - Move left and climb the nose of the steep slab, step left into the grooves and pull up into the huge cave (this exposed pitch can be protected by a line sling on a small flake high on the right side of the slab).

3. 12 m - Climb the chimney from the centre of the cave, moving diagonally right until it is possible to swing into the groove outside above the bulge. Climb easily to the finish.

Start as for Balrog.

1. Up to ledge and swing right to land on a large ledge.

2. 21 m - Up the crack using pegs for aid until it turns into a groove and then a chimney which is climbed free to the top. The first part could probably be done with less pegs if alcoholism is avoided the night before!

Severe at the first ohockstone; Very Difficult beyond. Start in corner 40 feet right of Balrog at the foot of a pinnacle-like boulder.

1. 9 m - Climb the corner chimney to below the chockstone which is climbed on the right with difficulty. Delay.

2. 27 m - Scramble left through creeper and go up on easy gully and through a hole into a chimney behind a tall flake. Climb the chimney - fine back and foot work into the groove above and over the chockstone into an easy gully.

Start in a recess of the the crag (just left of the Riddle), below a wall with an enormous undercut flake on it.

1. 24 m - Move easily up blocks lo base of flake. Fine layaway moves up the flake to enable its sharp top to be reached. From the top of the flake move left into crack and up lo ledge. An awkward move left leads up to the edge which is followed to the top

Start at the foot of a corner with a large fig tree a third of the way up.

1. 12 m - Up the corner, past the tree, to platform on right.

2. 12 m - The corner steepens and narrows at 6 m, providing a riddle which, when solved, should have exercised the brain more than the muscles

Start - This goes up a large slab to the right of the corner followed by the Riddle.

1. 24 m - Ascend the thin wall about 2 feet to the left of the rib via a groove to a ledge. Up the cracked overhand to a large tree and belay.

2. 15 m - Climb the right hand arete of the chimney of riddle for 5 feet and then break right onto the face and climb direct to top. Variation: 2(a) Climb the face direct to the top about 3 m to the right of the chimney. This is thin but more in character with the rest of the climb. A peg for protection would be useful. Not yet led.

Start 8 m feet right of the last climb at the foot of a leftward slanting slab.

1. 21 m - A rising traverse left up into a corner leads to a gentle slab.

2. 22 m - The corner above to the right.

Start about 3 m right of Garden Path just left of a crack.

1. 15 m - Straight up to a large platform and up by the steep crack on the right into the hole under the overhanging top boulder, runner, move right and up over the bulge. Belay among trees.

2. 23 m - Press through the trees into the corner which is climbed by a crack and later a chimney until easy rocks lead to the top.

A delightful climb Start 5 m right of Garden Path on the left wall of the short chimney

1. 12 m - Climb the wall and crack over a bulge and traverse left to a belay on the afforested ledge.

2. 5 m - Traverse right across the top of the chimney to a large ledge.

3. 15 m. - Semi-hand-traverse left and mantleshelf onto the nose. Climb the ridge on good holds. A fine pitch.

4. 6 m - Easy rocks to the top.

Pleasant, well protected, varied and on clean rock. Climb chimney, exiting at top through hole. Now left side of a pillar up fractured blocks; belay on a pinnacle -15m. Traverse right across wall to gain ledge with tree -5m. The corner above, taken direct with fine jamming to top -10m. Or finish up an easier wide crack on the right.

From just below the pinnacle belay on Fracture an excellent alternative is to climb the top pitch of Ridge Way; hand traverse L and mantelshelf onto a ledge on the ridge. Follow ridge to the top (111+).

A girdle traverse from The Swinger to Capstone Chimney. Start at the large tree 10 yards right of Fracture. Up 6 m and left to ledges crossing Fracture. Continue beneath an arch on Ridge Way and into trees on Rock ’n Roll. Easy slabs lead across Garden Path and diagonally upwards to a platform with a tree belay on The Riddle. Move down and across the wall on large loose-looking flakes. Scramble down to reach the top of pitch i on Capstone Chimneys. Up to the left on slabs to the large ledge on Hangover. Swing left onto tree on Balrog. Pitch 2 of Balrog (V.S.) or easier left to foot of overhanging chimney which the leader surmounts with the aid of a shoulder. Through the cave and down Durin’s Chimney for some way before moving left across Dodder to Doddle. Down into a corner thicket and swing up into Capstone Chimney using a tree. Scramble up the bed of the chimney with a final pull out at the top. There is a fair amount of scrambling and the whole route is well protected with many belay points.

1. 8m, 4a

   Start at the foot of broken groove midway between 'Fracture' and 'The Threader'.

   Climb the groove 5m, before launching rightwards over hanging slab. Step back left behind small pinnacle to belay on small fig tree.

2. 25m, 4b

   Climb offwidth crack on left past handy chockstone to surmount pointy boulder on left. Step right onto face a climb rightwards before stepping left below small roof. Climb loose overhang to pathetic tree on ledge. Continue up the dihedral, over boulders to top.

Start at an enormous tree 10 yards to the right of Fracture.

1. 27 m - Up past the tree and to the right of the main chimney then a little left using holds on the slab and two or three pegs to reach the small tree with white root 2 pegs used for aid to reach the tree. Swing right and mantleshelf onto the arete place 2 pitons above the overhang (very wide channels used) and move up into a steep groove and pull out onto a tree on the right to reach a ledge (The wedge in place here was not in fact used).

2. 9 m - Up the arete on the right and step left across the groove to easy ground which leads to the top.

30m right of Fracture in a shady bay between boulders and trees, a steep comer leads to a slab with caves and nests below big overhangs.

Veerog starts at base of a groove; some fine moves and positions on this climb, but the 1st pitch (originally aided) is now unpleasantly free; after the groove traverse a steep slab R-wards to gain a ridge; climb a slab on right to a small tree. Above this balance into a corner on left and climb this past a tree and a bulge to the top.

Start 25 feet left of Cliff’s route at the foot of a groove with a tree root. The climb goes up this and then across to (ho detached pillar and up the left hand side of the pillar chimney. Cliff’s route going up the right hand side.

1. 30 m - Climb the corner and up to a tree above the chockstone (runner) traverse right to the pillar, belay deep inside the chimney.

2. 18 m - Climb the chimney up its left edge until it is possible to move onto the top of the pillar. Belay round the pillar.

3. 9 m - Step down into the groove and so to the top. A strenuous and sustained climb in a fine position.

The next climb In very fine one, the route as described appears to differ only slightly from Barry Cliff’s route which, in the rain, took a line deeper in the chimney. This gives an alternative way of doing pitch 2 and avoids the chockstone; a pity. Start below the V formed by facing grooves, 9 m left of the Mummy.

1. 12 m - Climb a short groove and easier rock to a belay below a large block at (lie Junction of the two grooves.

2. 9 m - Move into the left hand groove and up the chimney to the projecting chockstone. Turn this on the left using a dubious flake as foothold.

3. 18 m - Climb the bulging groove above - sustained.

Start at the obvious crack up the left side of the Mummy. Climb an easy angled corner crack which steepens at the top. The rock in this section is very polished. Reach a chockstone, this wobbles and should not be pulled outwards. Continue up the cleft on right and pull over the bulging chockstone. Go up the chimney a bit then take the right wall and up to the ledge. Climb the wide corner crack above to the top of the Mummy. Climb the corner above to join pitch 4 of Morning Shade. You can also rap from the big tree rather than go all the way to the top of the cliff.

(originally done in 4 pitches but can easily be done in one with modern gear).

Start on the right of the Mummy in the cave between the Mummy’s Child and the ma face.

1. 6 m - Climb either the root or the inside of the chimney (a shoulder helps) exit through the chockstones.

2. 8 m - The right hand corner up to a tree.

3. 8 m - Traverse loft and up to a large tree.

4. 10 m - Take the right hand corner to a platform.

5. 12 m - Move left and up a corner to finish.

Variation start:

1. 12 m - Start deep in the cave at its narrowest part and chimney up with difficulty on smooth rock until it is possible to move into the flue-like chimney and into the open again at a large platform, various chockstone runners en route

2. 9 m - Climb the steep crack in the centre of the wall and join the traverse up to the tree as for pitch 3 of the original route.

Start to the left of Crackpot where a dead tree hangs down below the overhang on-the wall.

1. 24 m - Very hard fingery moves up a blind crack lead to a good horizontal crack to the left of a dead tree. Traverse left to the edge of the buttress and step around the arete to a cave and climb the overhanging wall above using twin tree roots, belay on a large tree.

2. 9 m - Easily up the groove to a bushy slab and another tree.

3. 21 m - Up groove behind until it steepens. Traverse left along an enormous flake to the next corner and up this to the top. The direct finish has not yet been done owing to loose rock and an absence of holds.

This is the whole of the left hand groove on Central Buttress. Start below the bottomless groove.

1. 24 m - Use a sling on a spike and a peg (in place) with an etrier to gain 3 m [ed: unsure if still in place in 2020]. Move left to ledge and back right to base of groove. Bridge and chimney to a niche with large chockstones (used as belay for Crackpot ordinary). Continue up steep blind corner above, crux, until one can move right to belay ledge. (A poor peg was used for protection on the crux, but is not necessary.)

2. 24 m - Step back into groove and up to overhanging block. A peg was used for a handhold to stand on the block then hard moves up (crux) to get over bulge and up to ledge on left. Continue up crack to overhanging blocks at top which are surmounted directly.

Variations

Crackpot Ordinary

HVS

1. 18 m - As for Crackpot to niche.

2. 34 m - An obvious traverse line leads up to left (easily) to a large bollard at left arete. Straight up above is a good crack which goes blind after a while with an awkward move, then move easily to the top.

Crackpot Misdirect 49 m HVS

1. 24 m - As for crackpot to belay ledge.

2. 24 m - Above belay in centre of the wall is a small tree. Move straight up to this and then into crack above. Up to triangular overhang, surmounted by bridging, and then handjam up steep cracks above (huge blocks appear detached but seem sound). Straight on up to the top.

This is the right-hand groove on the central buttress.

Start to the right of the direct line at the obvious line of weakness.

Sustained, fine climbing.

1. Start at the painted 43 and climb a steep slab on poor rock to an obvious crack breaking through bulges above. Climb crack (peg runners, crux) to a ledge below the corner proper. Go up this initially using the right wall till a step left leads to a ledge and belays on left (25 m).

2. Step right into comer and climb the groove, overhanging at first; at a chockstone climb the right wall then continue to the top (25m).

Just right of the slab start of Party Grooves is a small, short right-facing corner. Start just right of large flake below an overhanging crack 9 m up.

1. At the painted numbers 44,45 and 46, climb to a bulge and surmount it by a shallow crack to a resting ledge. From right side of this a short R-facing comer leads to base of groove proper. Take it by a steep, strenuous jamming crack. Belay on a ledge above and on right (25m).

2. Move right and up to a ledge in the next corner; step back left to finish by the main corner (20m). A direct finish is a fine, sustained and well protected pitch climbing the main corner throughout.

Start in the corner on a little platform below a chimney.

1. 12 m - Climb a crack on the steep left wall; then take the right of twin cracks up to a tree belay.

2. 18 m - Up behind the tree to the foot of an undercut groove, ignore this and climb the right wall by a tree on to a slab, difficult. Cross the slab to the right and swing up Into a steep crack and up to a tree belay.

3. 6 m - Climb the loose-looking corner above.

The description below is a more pleasant variation of the original way which, above the tree belay of pitch 1, moves up and traverses right across a smooth wall and slab (with the help of a sapling) to gain a tree and hence the top. Start one metre right of Nutcracker (painted 45,46,47).

1. Climb a crack up the wall, then take the right of twin cracks to big tree above (25m).

2. Reach a ledge on the nose to left (tree not required). Climb to a corner, then to a ledge below a very steep corner (15m). Step Left from ledge to top part of the steep corner which is the finish of Nutcracker Direct; take this to the top.

This goes up the ignored groove of Knight’s Move. A fine pitch in an exposed situation.

Start as for Knight’s Move

1. 14 m - Climb the chimney to a belay below the steep cracks.

2. 9 m - The 1eft hand of the twin cracks up to a tree belay (the same crack as I reached by the Knight’s Move across the slab).

3. 8 m - Move up right to finish.

A magnificent climb.

Start to the right of Mwa! in a deep corner behind the tree just around the edge of the buttress.

1. 21 m - Up the corner on good jams for 6 m until the roof forces an awkward step onto slabs on the left. In 3 m good holds lead to the arete and up to a large easy ramp leading right to a belay on top of large blocks.

2. 12 m - Up the corner crack behind to a large roof split by a good crack on left. A flat looking ledge on the left wall surprisingly turns out to be a good Jug. Mantleshelf onto this and then climb a crack containing a huge long block to a good thread belay.

3. 6 m - The right hand crack leads more easily to the top.

A technical and well-protected route on excellent rock. Good. Start 3 m right of the tree at the right of the foot of Surprise where a line of pockets for footholds leads left.

1. 32 m - The problem is to enter the corner crack behind the tree. Using pockets for the feet a mantleshelf can be made with some difficulty. This leads to a move (crux) into the corner above the bulge. Long reach is an advantage. The corner leads past a chockstone belay on the ridge at the right hand end of the overhang.

2. 11 m - The right hand wall gives a pleasant finish.

Start at the foot of the wooded gully.

1. 11 m - Scramble up the gully and up a short wall to a trough, tree belay on the left.

2. 12 m - Climb the right hand corner (a peg was used for a handhold at 9 m). Move onto an awkward stance below a V chimney. Belay on a large flake high on the right, or use this as a runner and lead straight through.

3. 11 m - Straddle the V chimney and move across to the large flake, climb easier but polished rock above and exit on the left.

Start at the foot of the buttress, 40 feet right of the previous climb at the foot of a larj tree which grows a root down the rock. 1 2

1. 50 ft. - Climb the wall by the tree root into a short chimney, to a stance oi large sloping ledge behind the tree. j

2. 70 ft. - Move up to the right to the foot of a short undercut groove, climb tl and the n ai l above until just below the top; climb the crack on the left wall to top.

Crosses Radical from right to left. Start 6 m the right of Radical start where there is a line of weakness just left of a detached pinnacle.

1. 18 m - Climb diagonally left to mantleshelf in a corner and then traverse out (airy and well protected) onto the face where a further mantleshelf leads into a groove. This ends at a block belay at the base of the undercut groove on pitch 2 of Radical.

2. 24 m - Traverse left and either climb straight over the overhanging continuation of pitch 1 of Radical (crux not led) or take the wall 10 feet to the left where 2 high holds lead to easier things (crux) then follow the obvious weakness to the top.

Start 3 m right of the last climb, 3 m left of a large 9 m block, detached from the main crag.

1. 11 m - Climb the wall and groove to a chockstone belay in a recess.

2. 9 m - The sidestep, avoid the terrifying crack above by traversing left and ascending a delectable slab on good holds.

3. 9 m - The wall and corner above give an interesting crux with difficult jams on loose flakes.

This climb traverses the crag from Mwa! to Sidestep taking a natural line. A satisfying climb. Well protected.

1. 14 m - Climb the chimney of Mwa!, belay on the right.

2. 9 m - Descend the slab on the right and belay below the overhang.

3. 15 m - Climb the overhang and traverse right over blocks to the corner over looking the wooded gully. Arrange a belay on the last block and descend to the narrow ledge on the gully wall.

4. 15 m - Crux. Climb across into the corner - the top of pitch 2 of Third Time Lucky. Bridge up and gain the flake on the right, traverse right from the top of this flake and move delicately down to the large ledge.

5. 15 m - Move right to the small tree on Radical 2nd pitch, step down and on detached flake and across to the slab of Sidestep, go up to the belay.

6. 9 m or 15 m - Finish either up the slab and corner above - Sidestep pitch severe; or, easier, descend the slab below the belay, step right and finish behind the large detached block. The climb was first done in the reverse direction but this involves either a descent to finish or an an ascent of the crux of Mwa!

Mostly Severe but with 2 good peg pitches. One of the longest climbs in Kenya, it has not been completed in 1 day.

1. • The Ring.

2. Climb Mwa! to the Threader - Traverse across the trees on Knight’s Move. Step onto branch and up to peg stance on Nutcracker. Descend 3 m and A1 across to Party Grooves in fine position. Continue across easy ledges and descend (or abseil) down Smeagol chimney. From tree at the top of first pitch of Smeagol go up slab to overhang, traverse left across smooth slab (peg for handhold) and make V.S. moves up to tree and around to the corner. Then A1 across the wall to the Swinger. Descend this to the Threader.

3. The Threader

4. Continue to Capstone Chimney, up this to the top of The Rash and ascend until it is possible to cross onto White Spot. Ascend this to the top. The traverse is still 15 m from complete at this end.

Start about 40 meters to the right of the way down between Central and North Crags. A large flake with a sort of flake in its centre and a large tree on top.

1. 23 m - Start at the right in the trough between the slab and a boulder. Move up leftwards and back right to bottom of flake. Up more easily to a platform at 18 m. Up cracked wall to tree.

Start at a cairn.

1. 18 m - Up the easy slab on the left.

2. 15 m - Up and traverse left to the chimney making an exit from it on the right.

3. a) Or better, straight up the steepening buttress on small lichenous holds.

Start at the cairn.

1. 21 m - Up the flat buttress on the right over some hollow sounding rock to a tree. Pull up behind the tree; and move right to top of pinnacle.

2. 15 m - Up overhanging boulder and two more boulders to the top.

A practice peg climb, perhaps it could be done free. Start to the left of The Bow up an obvious crack slanting from left to right at first.

1. 24 m - Mixed peg and free moves up the crack and exit on left at the top.

Start below obvious curving crack

1. 9m - From the boulder on the right traverse left high up to a good foothold and across to a large platform in the corner.

2. 30m - Chimney up the curving crack to a block on the left wall. Carefully past this to top of overhang, then move left onto the wall and above into easy cracks

Start where the cliff recedes into a corner.

1. 12 m - The corner and left wall to a stance with a small tree belay above the left wall.

2. 18 m - Return to the chimney and take the right hand fork where it divides. At the overhang ascend to reach a line of good holds (crux) using which a Russian dance is executed left to land in a tree.

3. 15 m - Where the corner steepens at 6 m break right onto the face. Airy chimney on good holds and then move easily to the top.

Start up a crack with a tree stump.

1. 18 m - Up over the stump and past small shrub (crux) and left onto a block. Up to tree and a very large ledge.

2. 18 m - Up slabs from the left end of the ledge finishing up a crack with a small tree.

Start 5 m right of Double Wood.

1. 15 m - Up the groove and swing left onto the face and across into the corner. Up this to big ledge. Nut belay.

2. 7 m - Up the overhanging corner using the second as a foothold to reach a big ledge with trees.

3. 15 m - Take the fine crack at the right hand end of the ledge which leads to a forest and fight to the top.

Start at the tree to the right of The Jammer, below an obvious cave.

1. 21 m - Up the wall and slab and the right hand corner to a stance above the fig tree in the cave.

2. 12 m - Climb inside the chimney and then traverse out to a contortionate move into the crack, the crux. The crack above is narrow but gets progressively easier. Belay on a large platform.

3. 12 m - Straight up the crack above, or diagonally across the slab on the left to finish up the corner.

Start about 9 m right of Grendel, to the left.of the tree, is a long curving line of corner

1. 34 m - At 5 m bear left with some difficulty to reach the base of the chimney proper. The prominent chockstone can be surmounted by climbing first on the right wall. Above a mantleshelf on the left wall leads to the continuation of the chimney which relents at a large ledge at 30 m. Belay above.

2. 9 m - The right hand of the two lines and the more pleasant.

A steep corner above a slab behind a tree. Start at a tree, just to the left of the Bridge.

1. 14 m - Up the tree and slab behind it. Move right behind the upper branches of a second tree and up to a small ledge and tree belay.

2. 14 m - Up the corner on poor hand jams. It is possible to rest at the tree branch on the left. Continue bridging and move right to belay at the top.

3. 12 m - Up the continuation crack and chimney to the top.

A corner groove with twin cracks and an overhanging chockstone at the top. Start on ledges at the left.

1. 24 m - Up lower groove, semi hand traverse right, mantleshelf and move up small tree to enter main groove in right hand crack. Up this by wide bridging good jams with a hard move at a small overhang. Belay above chockstones.

2. 9 m - The crack on the left and a fight with a shrub to the top.

A fine route

Start in the centre of the North Crag where the cliff is at its highest and there is a break leading to the left.

1. 34 m - Climb easily diagonally right with two short corners to a platform.

2. 21 m - Straight up from the platform.

Between Alicanthus and Ladies’ Day Chimneys is a large tree 6 m up a wall.

1. 9 m - Easily up to the tree, using white root hanging down.

2. 9 m - Up steep crack to where it closes. Move left onto wall and up to large ledge. Tree belay. A good pitch.

3. 30 m - Awkward corner on right to another tree.

4. 15 m - The Chimney above is a struggle until a committing mantleshelf on the right enables the bulge to be surmounted, then easily up crack with care of loose blocks.

Start - the climb lies up the chimney on the right hand side of a slab.

1. 14 m - Climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge.

2. 23 m - Follow the second chimney to the top.

Start to the right of Ladies’ Day Chimney at a buttress with a ledge and a tree at 9 m.

1. 9 m - Up the steep slab to a large tree belay.

2. 14m - Up the diamond shaped slab and groove on the left to a small cave with a bush. Constricted moves left (crux) and up the crack to the top of Little Pinnacle.

3. 8 m - Up the crack above its left hand end.

Start up and to the right of Little Pinnacle Groove below the right hand side of the Little

1. 18 m - Up the slab beneath the tree and the cracked corner above. Swing left using a tree to reach a second tree at the foot of the chimney.

2. 12 m - Up the chimney to the top of the pinnacle and up the wall behind.

Start 3 m right of Little Pinnacle Chimney.

1. 6 m - Scramble up the gully to the right of the slab.

2. 15 m - Ascend the crack above (crux) until it is possible to move right to ge above the tree in the crack. Belay on top of the bush.

3. 40 ft. - Move diagonally left up wall, then back right into the crack by a largi detached flake. Straight up to the top.

The Penultimate crack at the right hand end of North Crag.

1. 9 m - Traverse leftwards across the slab on the right of the direct line to a platform at the bottom of a chimney.

2. 15 m - Climb crack up to a tree, and above this enter the chimney. Up with difficulty to good holds just below the top. Exit facing right (crux).

The last corner on this crag.

1. 24 m - Up over blocks to enter a corner crack leading to a small tree. Over this and up the chimney above - rather loose.

The big chimney to the right of the left hand pillar which can be broken at several points. Level with the big tree on the right either go straight up or better traverse left into the hill for 6 m then up through a hole.

Start at the nose of the slab.

1. 15 m - Up the nose to a ledge. Leave this by a root filled crack on the left and then swing right onto the wall which is climbed to a good ledge and belay.

2. 15 m - Move left and up a crack past a shrub until under a cracked overhanging block. Move right and up to a ledge. Finish up the smooth chimney on the left.

Start to the right of Pillar slab on top of the detached block.

1. 8 m - Up the slab to a large tree belay.

2. 23 m - From the left hand side of the tree step up onto the slab and ascend straight up(to left of grassy cracks) to a sloping ledge. Traverse left underneath overhanging block (across Pillar Slab route) to left hand side of slab and up this to the top.

The climb takes the obvious corner leading to a slit-like chimney.

1. 20 m. - Climb the corner crack going behind the chockstone at the top. The slab on the left gives a pleasantly severe variation, although the holds require a little care.

2. 15 m - The chimney.

A few yards right of the Slit is a prominent buttress with a fig tree at its foot. This buttress gives three pleasant climbs. Start 15 feet left of the fig tree.

1. 6 m - Climb the corner and wall on the right.

2. 14 m - Take the left hand of two chimney cracks.

Start at the fig tree.

1. 11 m - Climb the corner above.

2. 15 m - Climb the two noses above

Start in a corner below and right of the fig tree.

1. 9 m - Climb the short slab on the right of the fig tree.

2. 6 m - Go up the bush gully on the right and climb the chimney at the b finishing through the hole behind the chockstone.

3.6 m - Step up to the nose on the left (part of Tweedledee) then back right and descend into a small amphitheatre. An alternative to this is to climb directly up narrow chockstone chimney, an interesting severe problem.

1. 9 m - Climb the cracked wall at the back of the amphitheatre on good widely spaced holds.

The obvious deep chimney at the left hand end of the crag.

1. 18 m - Up the slanting chimney behind chockstone to belay on top of it.

2. 8 m - Use foot of second lying on his back to force an entry into the small hole above. Up easily to the top.

2 (a) V.S. variation: Up on the outside via an overhanging crack with dubious hold in it. Not led.

Around the corner from The Pot is a vegetated corner with clear rock above. Start - scramble up to small rib to corner below prominent overhanging chockstone in centre or crag.

1. 14 m - Up crack in corner to chockstone. Hard traverse left to arete. Belay on ledge.

2. 11 m - Up blocks to corner, move left onto ledge on arete. Move back into crack and up (crux).

Start at a cairn at the foot of a Slab towards the right hand end of the crag.

1. 18 m - Up the centre of the slab until it steepens and the easiest way is on the left. Back right to avoid a bush and belay at the foot of the chimney.

2. 16 m - Get into the chimney. Crux. Above the shrub it is easy but narrow.

Start up a chimney to the left of a steep wall split by a crack, 1. 9 m - Easily up the chimney to a big ledge.

1. 15 m - Up the crack in the wall above, slightly left to a corner fight past a tree and up to a good ledge and belay.

2. 6 m - Move right and up a crack and then back left onto an arete to the top.

Start 6 m right of Mzee in an obvious crack splitting the wall which.part of a large partly detached block.

1. 12 m - Up the crack to a large platform.

2. 15 m - Up the slanting crack behind on good jams. One hard move is encountered where the footholds disappear after a ledge on the left wall.

Start in a V corner 9 m to the right of Allergy just left of a wall with a tree.

1. 15 m - Up the corner and hand traverse left to the nose. Up to the rig] bush to belay on blocks. 1(a) Alternatively continue up the corner to an easy traverse left. .

2. 15 m - Up the slab on the left on big holds and up cracked wall to blocks and easier ground to the top.

Start up a wall with a groove and a large tree at about 6 m.

1. 30 m. - Climb the wall and pull up into the groove to reach the tree. Move up the slab on the right and then back left to follow cracks to the top.

Start - at the left of the buttress is a large tree with a root coming down to the ground. A ledge leads in to the tree from the left.

1. 15 m - Up awkward crack on the left to a ledge. Traverse easily to the end of the ledge, descend and step awkwardly across to a tree.

2. 30 m - Up the slabs above. Move left and up over the bulge on the edge of the buttress. Climb easily to the top.

Not a very good route.

Start at the right of a tree, at the bottom of several grooves leading to a tree near the top.

1. 21 m - Start in the left hand groove. Up over blocks to a good thread runner. Step right and over a bulge on jams past two bushes (crux). Step right again and over overlap onto slab. Then up the edge of this to large smooth blocks. Over these and through the split, burnt tree. Belay.

2. 9 m - Climb the wall behind the tree. Move left onto the arete and up to the top.

To the left of a grassy gully between Estate Crag and Ngik is a slab with a chimney on its right# Up the centre of the slab is a V groove, and at its left hand end is a prominent buttress. Start at the foot of the prominent buttress.

1. 90 ft. - From the left hand edge of the wall traverse diagonally right to the arete. Climb between the two small detached blocks until a large pile of detached blocks car be reached. From the top of this climb the left hand side of the bulging arete. Tra verse right to climb the slabs taken by semi-detached for 10 feet, then move left on large ledge and finish to the left of a tree

Start in the V groove in the centre of the slab.

1. 30 m - Climb the V Groove for 6 m. Traverse leftwards into a smooth groove and move across it to the left and up to the obvious semi-detached block on the right. Move around this on the right and up the slabs above, first to the left then finish at the right.

Start at a large detached flake leading right.

1. 15 m - Climb the wall to the flake and then move right. Up blocks and back to enormous blocks on the arete.

1 (a) Alternatively start near Ngik and move up left to above the flake.

1. 15 m - A hard mantleshelf leads into the groove. Move right and up over the bulge and continue to a large tree.

2 (a) Variation - Go straight up the overhanging crack and move left to the arete to finish. Not led.

Start - This crag is marked by a prominent corner up its whole height in which grow two trees. The climb commences from a small platform 6 m left of two walnut trees.

1. 35 ft. - Climb the corner and slab to the lower tree.

2. 11 m - After a move left follow the corner to the top - the pitch could be split.

Start to the right of Ngik in a large scoop with an overhanging crack leading to a tree on the face.

1. 15 m - Climb free up blocks to the overhand. Six pitons and one wedge lead to very strenuous layback moves into a groove leading to a tree.

Finish: as for the top half of pitch 2 of Alexander’s first.

A very good climb. Start up the next crack to the right of Moonshine.

1. 12m. Up onto block. Enter chimney behind and move up onto a large platform.

2. 23m. Go up the corner until its possible to traverse left on across the steep wall on good holds. The arete is reached just above the tree of Moonshine. Continue up slabs to the top.

Start on a cracked wall to the right of a nose.

1. 12 m - Climb the centre of the wall. Move right into a corner with a tree. Move right onto the buttress and climb the corner crack on the left. Belay on a large platform.

2. 15 m - Move right and stand on tree branches by the edge of the arete. Make a long reach up onto good holds and continue leftwards up a slanting groove. From this climb a crack in a fine position to finish.

2 (a) - From the platform move left and up slabs continuing up a slanting crack on the left. Continue up the slab and corner to the right of a small tree to the top. Easier but not such a good pitch.

On the crag with white pinnacles on its lower half situated between Ngik and Cracked crags.

1. 18 m - Fight through bushes onto the right side of its lowest part. Climb good holds to the upper pinnacle. Large ledge and balay.

2. 18 m - Move right past a smooth wall and up over a tree, then walk along branches back left to the edge and up onto this. Climb slabs to corner mantleshelf on 1eft then easily to the top.

1. 15 m - Up the right hand crack and then chimney strenuously up to a large platform.

2. 15 m - Climb the crack behind facing left, then step right and up cracks to finish.

Starts to the left of Criss-Cross Chimney and finishes to the right. Start 3 m to the right of the chimney at the left of the buttress of Criss-Cross Chimney.

1. 15 m - Climb the left edge of a wall to a ledge then up the slab to the left, a steep chimney leads to a large ledge. Thread belay.

2. 15 m - Move across the chimney and traverse right into the scoop then follow the root-filled crack finishing to the left of the tree.

Start - at the the left of the crag is a big chimney, clean at the top and vegetated at the bottom. The climb starts on the right to avoid the lower vegetated part.

1. 21 m - Up a wall behind the tree and traverse left almost to the vegetated gully, tree runner in gully. Move right and up bulging slab and back left to the chimney. Pull up over a chockstone and continue up the chimney to a small tree and a large belay.

2. 15 m - The chimney above is much easier than it looks.

Start The climb takes the huge cave-like chimney on Turtle Crag. Start 6 m left of the line of the chimney.

1. 24 m - Climb the wall for 9 m. Then take the complex of cracks in the corner until one can go easily out to a large block level with the base of the chimney.

2. 14 m - The chimney surprises with holds. Bear right, naif way.

3. 12 m - Climb the two noses above.

Start at the right hand end of Turtle Slab.

1. 15 m - Up over blocks to a crack with a triangular chockstone and on to a large detached block. Across this and upon the left to the arete and up to two large flkes. Belay. (This pitch can be omitted by scrambling up the gully on the right.)

2. 18 m -Move right to the edge of the crag and layback up into overhanging chimney (by baboon cave). At the overhand move right into mantleshelf ledge (crux). Continue up crack and slab to a large platform.

3. 18 m - Straight up the slabs and nose behind. Pleasant.