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Red Crag

  • Grade context: UK

Description

Near the south end of this crag a buttress stands out prominently from the main cliff. The first climb finds an entertaining and generally not difficult route onto and up this buttress.

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Access issues inherited from Around Nairobi

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Routes

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Grade Route

Near the south end of this crag a buttress stands out prominently from the main cliff. The first climb finds an entertaining and generally not difficult route onto and up this buttress. Start right of the buttress at the foot of the leftward slanting corner 5 m feet from the main corner. Climbed in the 4 pitches below on the FA in the 60s, but several pitches can probably be combined into one, depending on rope drag.

  1. 12 m - Climb with difficulty - or a shoulder - into the crack which leads to a large ledge and block belay.

  2. 6 m - Traverse left to the end of the ledge out onto the buttress.

  3. 15 m - Climb the crack to a platform. Traverse left until it is possible to pull up by a small tree into a crack, then up this to the huge platform forming the top of the buttress, a fine exposed pitch.

  4. 6 m - The obvious weakness in the wall above.

FA: R. Chambers, G. Hodges & R. Pillinger, 1964

Very Severe with two aid moves.

Start in the corner below the wide crack just to the left of Giant's Steps, or up pitch one of Giant's Steps.

  1. 12 m - Climb the corner chockstones to reach a ledge (Very Difficult).

  2. 15 m - Move right to below the triangular overhang and up cracks to a large block. Use a peg to move up and throw a nut into the crack above and to the left. Pull up on this and use a peg and a wedge (unsure if still there in 2020) to reach a ledge on the right. Strenuous moves up using a small tree lead to a belay.

  3. 12 m - Up the crack behind, still strenuous.

FA: M.S. Harris & S. Borruso, 1966

Start 6 m feet to the right of the start of Giant’s Steps.

  1. 6 m - Climb easily to the sloping ledge at the foot of the slab. Belay on right.

  2. 20 m - From the centre of the slab move diagonally left up the edge of the slab; delicate, crux. Up to the top of the slab and then via a loose block up to the right along an awkward ramp to the foot of a chimney. 3- 14 m. - Climb the chimney, behind the first chock and outside the final one

FA: R. Pillinger & R. Chambers, 1964

Start - A large chimney to the right of Troll’s Wall behind a tree.

  1. 24 m - Up the chimney which is better than it looks at the bottom, and in a superb position and well protected at the top.

  2. 15 m - Step down to the right and traverse to the end of a large ledge. Continue to Gog.

FA: C. Powell, J. Powell & R. Metcalf, 1966

Start - A large chimney to the right of Troll’s Wall behind a tree.

  1. 24 m - Up the chimney which is better than it looks at the bottom, and in a superb position and well protected at the top.

  2. 11 m - Climb the steep crack above (HVS pitch - Severe climbing before this). The corner above pitch one which on the first ascent required jammed nuts, a shoulder, a held foot and a peg above the V. Slings in the peg make it relatively easy for a second.

FA: J. Powell, R. Metcalf & C. Powell, 1966

Start - To the right of the last climb is a prominent grey slab about half the height of the crag, the climb begins in the corner on the right of this slab.

  1. 15 m - Climb the corner, or the left edge of the slab, move left to a large ledge and up to a smaller one.

  2. 15 m - The left-hand of two weaknesses abovr, each with a projecting block, gives a good finish.

Variation

  1. (a) 18 m - The arboreal corner left of the grey slab gives moderately athletic climbing.

FA: G. Hodges & R.J.H. Chambers, 1965

A good strenuous climb. Start a few feet right of Gog to the left of the tree on Harambee.

  1. 24 m - Up the groove onto loose looking blocks. Bear diagonally right to a large, rounded block below the obvious chimney crack. Move right and lay away onto good hold enabling the top of thin chimney to be gained. Step right again and up the crack to a large eloping ledge.

  2. 6 m - The awkward layback crack above.

FA: M. Harris, C. Powell & J. Powell, 1966

A delightful climb on very solid rock. Start a few feet right of Gog on a rib leading to a tree on the overhand above.

  1. 18 m - Jug handles lead diagonally right past a big tree to the tree on top of the overhang.

  2. 15 m - The narrow chimney above, the crux, provides an excellent problem Fat Man's Finish For those who find the chimney too narrow.

  3. a. 12 m - 2. Move right to the end of the ledge and up the wall to a ledge with a shrub. Continue up the right hand corner which leads unexpectedly to the top.

FA: H.W. Mwongela, J.K.N Chambers, R.J.H. Chambers, C. Powell, H. Lowe & B. Forrester, 1966

Start 12 m feet to the right of Harambee where a narrow chimney leads to a prominent tree root at 30 feet.

  1. 30 m - Climb the narrow chimney to the root. Break out to the right over the overhang and move right until a return can be made left to the final crack which is climbed with difficulty.

FA: J. Mbithi, 1965

Start - The crack about 8 m to the right of The Plumb.

  1. 24 m - Up the crack to the overhang. Move left up the wall and then back right to the crack and up this to the top.

FA: R.D. Metcalfe, C. & J. Powell, 1966

Start 3 m right of Prune

  1. 30 m - Climb the rightward-slanting groove to reach pleasant slabs. Move right around blocks and take the right-hand crack above them stepping left at the top.

FA: R.D. Metcalfe & S. Borusso, 1967

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