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Grade Route

Start about 40 meters to the right of the way down between Central and North Crags. A large flake with a sort of flake in its centre and a large tree on top.

  1. 23 m - Start at the right in the trough between the slab and a boulder. Move up leftwards and back right to bottom of flake. Up more easily to a platform at 18 m. Up cracked wall to tree.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1967

Start at a cairn.

  1. 18 m - Up the easy slab on the left.

  2. 15 m - Up and traverse left to the chimney making an exit from it on the right.

  3. a) Or better, straight up the steepening buttress on small lichenous holds.

FA: C.G. Powell, J. Powell & M.S. Harris, 1965

Start at the cairn.

  1. 21 m - Up the flat buttress on the right over some hollow sounding rock to a tree. Pull up behind the tree; and move right to top of pinnacle.

  2. 15 m - Up overhanging boulder and two more boulders to the top.

FA: C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1965

A practice peg climb, perhaps it could be done free. Start to the left of The Bow up an obvious crack slanting from left to right at first.

  1. 24 m - Mixed peg and free moves up the crack and exit on left at the top.

Start below obvious curving crack

  1. 9m - From the boulder on the right traverse left high up to a good foothold and across to a large platform in the corner.

  2. 30m - Chimney up the curving crack to a block on the left wall. Carefully past this to top of overhang, then move left onto the wall and above into easy cracks

FA: M.S. Harris, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1967

Start where the cliff recedes into a corner.

  1. 12 m - The corner and left wall to a stance with a small tree belay above the left wall.

  2. 18 m - Return to the chimney and take the right hand fork where it divides. At the overhang ascend to reach a line of good holds (crux) using which a Russian dance is executed left to land in a tree.

  3. 15 m - Where the corner steepens at 6 m break right onto the face. Airy chimney on good holds and then move easily to the top.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & K. Dangerfield, 1965

Start up a crack with a tree stump.

  1. 18 m - Up over the stump and past small shrub (crux) and left onto a block. Up to tree and a very large ledge.

  2. 18 m - Up slabs from the left end of the ledge finishing up a crack with a small tree.

FA: J. Powell & C.G. Powell, 1965

Start 5 m right of Double Wood.

  1. 15 m - Up the groove and swing left onto the face and across into the corner. Up this to big ledge. Nut belay.

  2. 7 m - Up the overhanging corner using the second as a foothold to reach a big ledge with trees.

  3. 15 m - Take the fine crack at the right hand end of the ledge which leads to a forest and fight to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

Start at the tree to the right of The Jammer, below an obvious cave.

  1. 21 m - Up the wall and slab and the right hand corner to a stance above the fig tree in the cave.

  2. 12 m - Climb inside the chimney and then traverse out to a contortionate move into the crack, the crux. The crack above is narrow but gets progressively easier. Belay on a large platform.

  3. 12 m - Straight up the crack above, or diagonally across the slab on the left to finish up the corner.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & S. Mayodi

Start about 9 m right of Grendel, to the left.of the tree, is a long curving line of corner

  1. 34 m - At 5 m bear left with some difficulty to reach the base of the chimney proper. The prominent chockstone can be surmounted by climbing first on the right wall. Above a mantleshelf on the left wall leads to the continuation of the chimney which relents at a large ledge at 30 m. Belay above.

  2. 9 m - The right hand of the two lines and the more pleasant.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers, H.W. Mwongela & T. Philipps, 1965

A steep corner above a slab behind a tree. Start at a tree, just to the left of the Bridge.

  1. 14 m - Up the tree and slab behind it. Move right behind the upper branches of a second tree and up to a small ledge and tree belay.

  2. 14 m - Up the corner on poor hand jams. It is possible to rest at the tree branch on the left. Continue bridging and move right to belay at the top.

  3. 12 m - Up the continuation crack and chimney to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1966

A corner groove with twin cracks and an overhanging chockstone at the top. Start on ledges at the left.

  1. 24 m - Up lower groove, semi hand traverse right, mantleshelf and move up small tree to enter main groove in right hand crack. Up this by wide bridging good jams with a hard move at a small overhang. Belay above chockstones.

  2. 9 m - The crack on the left and a fight with a shrub to the top.

A fine route

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

Start in the centre of the North Crag where the cliff is at its highest and there is a break leading to the left.

  1. 34 m - Climb easily diagonally right with two short corners to a platform.

  2. 21 m - Straight up from the platform.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers, S. Mayodi & E. Rutowitz, 1964

Between Alicanthus and Ladies’ Day Chimneys is a large tree 6 m up a wall.

  1. 9 m - Easily up to the tree, using white root hanging down.

  2. 9 m - Up steep crack to where it closes. Move left onto wall and up to large ledge. Tree belay. A good pitch.

  3. 30 m - Awkward corner on right to another tree.

  4. 15 m - The Chimney above is a struggle until a committing mantleshelf on the right enables the bulge to be surmounted, then easily up crack with care of loose blocks.

FA: M.S. Harris & R.J.H. Chambers, 1966

Start - the climb lies up the chimney on the right hand side of a slab.

  1. 14 m - Climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge.

  2. 23 m - Follow the second chimney to the top.

FA: J. Winning, D. Standring & C. Brown, 1964

Start to the right of Ladies’ Day Chimney at a buttress with a ledge and a tree at 9 m.

  1. 9 m - Up the steep slab to a large tree belay.

  2. 14m - Up the diamond shaped slab and groove on the left to a small cave with a bush. Constricted moves left (crux) and up the crack to the top of Little Pinnacle.

  3. 8 m - Up the crack above its left hand end.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

Start up and to the right of Little Pinnacle Groove below the right hand side of the Little

  1. 18 m - Up the slab beneath the tree and the cracked corner above. Swing left using a tree to reach a second tree at the foot of the chimney.

  2. 12 m - Up the chimney to the top of the pinnacle and up the wall behind.

FA: C.G. Powell, J. Powell & R.D. Metcalfe, 1966

Start 3 m right of Little Pinnacle Chimney.

  1. 6 m - Scramble up the gully to the right of the slab.

  2. 15 m - Ascend the crack above (crux) until it is possible to move right to ge above the tree in the crack. Belay on top of the bush.

  3. 40 ft. - Move diagonally left up wall, then back right into the crack by a largi detached flake. Straight up to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris & G. Alexander, 1967

The Penultimate crack at the right hand end of North Crag.

  1. 9 m - Traverse leftwards across the slab on the right of the direct line to a platform at the bottom of a chimney.

  2. 15 m - Climb crack up to a tree, and above this enter the chimney. Up with difficulty to good holds just below the top. Exit facing right (crux).

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1967

The last corner on this crag.

  1. 24 m - Up over blocks to enter a corner crack leading to a small tree. Over this and up the chimney above - rather loose.

FA: R.D. Metcalfe, C.G. Powell & J. Powell, 1966

This cliff is unlocated

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