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Ngik Crag

  • Grade context: UK
6

Description

This is the good steep crag directly in front of the campsite.

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Access issues inherited from Around Nairobi

Please be considerate of locals and do not pay for climbing (outside of National Parks) without first consulting the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at a large detached flake leading right.

  1. 15 m - Climb the wall to the flake and then move right. Up blocks and back to enormous blocks on the arete.

1 (a) Alternatively start near Ngik and move up left to above the flake.

  1. 15 m - A hard mantleshelf leads into the groove. Move right and up over the bulge and continue to a large tree.

2 (a) Variation - Go straight up the overhanging crack and move left to the arete to finish. Not led.

FA: M.S. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1966

Start - This crag is marked by a prominent corner up its whole height in which grow two trees. The climb commences from a small platform 6 m left of two walnut trees.

  1. 35 ft. - Climb the corner and slab to the lower tree.

  2. 11 m - After a move left follow the corner to the top - the pitch could be split.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & J. Winning, 1964

Start to the right of Ngik in a large scoop with an overhanging crack leading to a tree on the face.

  1. 15 m - Climb free up blocks to the overhand. Six pitons and one wedge lead to very strenuous layback moves into a groove leading to a tree.

Finish: as for the top half of pitch 2 of Alexander’s first.

FA: M.S. Harris, 1966

A very good climb. Start up the next crack to the right of Moonshine.

FA: M..S. Harris, G. Alexander & D. Lascelles, 1966

Start on a cracked wall to the right of a nose.

  1. 12 m - Climb the centre of the wall. Move right into a corner with a tree. Move right onto the buttress and climb the corner crack on the left. Belay on a large platform.

  2. 15 m - Move right and stand on tree branches by the edge of the arete. Make a long reach up onto good holds and continue leftwards up a slanting groove. From this climb a crack in a fine position to finish.

2 (a) - From the platform move left and up slabs continuing up a slanting crack on the left. Continue up the slab and corner to the right of a small tree to the top. Easier but not such a good pitch.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

On the crag with white pinnacles on its lower half situated between Ngik Cracked Crags.

  1. 18 m - Fight through bushes onto the right side of its lowest part. Climb good holds to the upper pinnacle. Large ledge and balay.

  2. 18 m - Move right past a smooth wall and up over a tree, then walk along branches back left to the edge and up onto this. Climb slabs to corner mantleshelf on 1eft then easily to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris & M. Atkinson, 1966

This cliff is unlocated

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