Ngik Crag

  • Grade context: UK


This is the good steep crag directly in front of the campsite.


Access issues inherited from Around Nairobi

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Grade Route

Start at a large detached flake leading right.

  1. 15 m - Climb the wall to the flake and then move right. Up blocks and back to enormous blocks on the arete.

1 (a) Alternatively start near Ngik and move up left to above the flake.

  1. 15 m - A hard mantleshelf leads into the groove. Move right and up over the bulge and continue to a large tree.

2 (a) Variation - Go straight up the overhanging crack and move left to the arete to finish. Not led.

FA: M.S. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1966

Start - This crag is marked by a prominent corner up its whole height in which grow two trees. The climb commences from a small platform 6 m left of two walnut trees.

  1. 35 ft. - Climb the corner and slab to the lower tree.

  2. 11 m - After a move left follow the corner to the top - the pitch could be split.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & J. Winning, 1964

Start to the right of Ngik in a large scoop with an overhanging crack leading to a tree on the face.

  1. 15 m - Climb free up blocks to the overhand. Six pitons and one wedge lead to very strenuous layback moves into a groove leading to a tree.

Finish: as for the top half of pitch 2 of Alexander’s first.

FA: M.S. Harris, 1966

A very good climb. Start up the next crack to the right of Moonshine.

FA: M..S. Harris, G. Alexander & D. Lascelles, 1966

Start on a cracked wall to the right of a nose.

  1. 12 m - Climb the centre of the wall. Move right into a corner with a tree. Move right onto the buttress and climb the corner crack on the left. Belay on a large platform.

  2. 15 m - Move right and stand on tree branches by the edge of the arete. Make a long reach up onto good holds and continue leftwards up a slanting groove. From this climb a crack in a fine position to finish.

2 (a) - From the platform move left and up slabs continuing up a slanting crack on the left. Continue up the slab and corner to the right of a small tree to the top. Easier but not such a good pitch.

FA: M.S. Harris & C.G. Powell, 1966

On the crag with white pinnacles on its lower half situated between Ngik Cracked Crags.

  1. 18 m - Fight through bushes onto the right side of its lowest part. Climb good holds to the upper pinnacle. Large ledge and balay.

  2. 18 m - Move right past a smooth wall and up over a tree, then walk along branches back left to the edge and up onto this. Climb slabs to corner mantleshelf on 1eft then easily to the top.

FA: M.S. Harris & M. Atkinson, 1966

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.


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