Ascents in Around Nairobi

FA

The pillar which used to be the start of the first pitch has fallen down, leaving 10m of good crack and then a tricky move up into a stem box with reasonably secure protection on the left side.

P1: Look for two very enticing cracks at the base of a large toppled pillar. You should start on the one on the right, which leads up 10m and then stops. We used the left crack which then meant some shenanigans around the arete and into the right crack, this is not recommended. When you take the right crack, place gear where it stops and then work up and into stems, using the seam by your left foot for protection (BD 0.3, 0.5, 1, 2 will do it). At the top of the box on the left will be a large loose flake, avoid touching it. This joins the original route at the ledge up to your left with a piton still in place, which makes a comfortable belay. Very fun climbing. I'd give it a hard YDS 5.10+ but as it cleans up it will feel less sketchy.

P2: We aided the roof on P2, it would go clean at YDS 5.11+ on insecure pro. Incoming thunderstorms meant we didn't want to puzzle on it for too long.

P3: Grassy chossy walk-traverse to the right, keep an eye out for a reasonable corner with a crack above you. Loose flakes and blocks abound.

P4: Swim through dirt and grass to belay from trees at the top.

Can't remember date

Can't remember date

Can't remember date

Can't remember date

Can't remember date

Climbed a few times

Sandbag. the peg is as solid as chocolate in the sun