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The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

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Route history

1982First ascent: Ian Howell & ?

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -1.48992, 37.06799

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Grade citation

VS 4c Assigned grade
VS 4c Lukenya Climbs

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

© inherited from Lukenya

Seasonality

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Quality

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Overall quality 78 from 3 ratings.

Tick Types

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