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Flora and Fauna: Eagle eggs in nest

As at 03/04/2021 there are eggs in the Verreaux' eagles nest at this crag (tho the right of the top of Pig's Ear). Please do not climb on this crag until further notice.

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Created 8 days ago

description

This climb was originally climbed as an aid route by Barry Cliff and John Hull in 1963, and it then lay dormant until Henry Barber climbed it free in 1978. The first moves off the ground and the daring sequence across the final roof were the crux sections of the route. In 1989, without realising it had been climbed free, Herve Sergeraert did the route adding a more direct (but easier) way between the initial difficulties and the finishing roof which has become known as the "Paradise Variation''. During this ascent Herve placed a bolt on the roof, which Barber had originally led with nuts. The route is best done incorporating the Paradise Variation, but if it belongs to anyone it must surely be Barber. Start about 9m right of Thin Wall where there is an obvious edge. Three very hard moves up an overhanging wall then step left to the foot of crack. Climb up right along crack and shallow corner to Baboon Ledge. Traverse 3m right to big groove below the roof. Up groove then right (bolt), across wall. Join the pillar and climb the slab on its right.

©

Route history

1963First ascent: Barry Cliff & John Hull

Paradise Variation: 1989

1978First free ascent: Henry Barber

Paradis Variation by Herve Sergeraert

Warnings

3 Apr 2021 Warning Flora and Fauna: Eagle eggs in nest

Location

Lat/Lon: -1.48827, 37.06973

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Grade citation

E2 6a Assigned grade
E2 6a Lukenya Climbs

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

© inherited from Lukenya

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