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description

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

©

Route history

27 Jan 1990First ascent: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -1.48520, 37.06853

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Grade citation

5c Assigned grade
E1 5a Lukenya Climbs

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

© inherited from Lukenya

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
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Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 58 from 8 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 5
Red point 1
Tick 2

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