This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...
First free ascent: Herve Sergeraert | |
1971 | First ascent:
P. Snyder aid route Soliloquy |
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7a | Assigned grade |
6c 23 | Lukenya Climbs |