Routes in Around Nairobi

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners.

Between Jason's route and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

Start up a tricky slab to a stance before tackling a few more hard moves to reach the third bolt. From here, romp up better holds on steeper terrain to the anchor.

Start 6 m right of K.L. Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff.

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards, finishing left and up of the last bolt (anchor hidden behind a small ledge over the overhang. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

Start at foot of centre slab and ascend line of pigeon holes, moving right. Continue to summit by moving left-handed. An excellent first lead as it can be easily and adequately protected. An intermediate belay may be arranged below the final wall.

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

This climb goes up the south-west face (the one which faces Mt Longonot). A prominent groove with a large fig tree at its foot splits the upper half of the face. Start below and to the right of this point. Scramble up to the wall beneath the tree then make a few easy moves to the foot of the groove. Up groove a few feet then step right onto arete. Climb diagonally rightwards to obvious ledge. Up onto this then left up summit boulders.

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

Climb first pitch of Arthur's Horror. Start second pitch as far as the traverse right. Just before you climb vertically up towards the exit of Arthurs Horror, you should see a bolt (first of three) at about 2m. Climb directly up past the bolt and slightly left on good hold to reach the second bolt. Continue leftwards toward 3rd bolt, again on good holds. Exit climb slightly left.

The shallow chimney with the guillotine blade shaped chockstone. The easiest climb of the whole group - pleasant.

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

5 m right of Guillotine Groove is a slab which contains a crack which narrows and closes at 8 m. Climb the crack for 6 m and step right to a ledge. Climb the thin crack on the right until the peg is reached.

Start at point of slab below scoop 2m up. From here take easiest route moving slightly right-handed and keeping a few feet right of the broken corner. Move left to finish. Belay at flake 5m back.

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

Start 12m right of Jacob’s Ladder at prominent band of quartz. Ascend groove, moving left-handed and cross over extreme right-hand point of overhang to finish by moving right. An alternate finish (Severe) is to traverse right into recess behind tree and climb back wall direct.

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

Fun line up the black streak between Nemesis and KL corner. Stay strong through the crux low down to finish on easier, fun climbing to the top. Found, FA'd and named by two strong young brothers!

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

Start halfway between Arthur’s Horror and Dilemma, directly under a long grass ledge at 20m.

1. 50m. Straight up to grassy ledge, then climb the face to the right of the huge flake, moving slightly to the right into a black scoop level with the ledge on Arthur’s Horror.

2. 25m. Straight up from the scoop to a groove at 15m. Either climb the nose to the right of the groove or the wall to its left, traversing right across the groove to finish.

Start at left end of overhang.

1. 15m. Tier of steep rocks leads to traverse under overhang to left up to point of large semi-detached boulder. Ascend wall to fig tree and move right 4m to base of crack and belay.

2. 10m. Ascend crack and face to foot of chimney with small tree.

3. 5m. Climb up chimney on right in final block to belay at fig tree.

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

This route begins approximately 91 m left of the prominent overhanging area. It is easy to find for at this particular section the wall is less steep with a broken area some 46 m up from the ground. The route starts 12 m right of 'Caiaphas' at the base of a series of cracks

1. 30 m Up cracks and trend leftward for approx 10m mounting a series of ledges. Move up towards a bulge and take an obvious traverse line leading off right below it. Continue along traverse for 12 m to an arete. Tension around this (peg in place with a 6foot cordalette), with precarious but exciting moves. Place small gear in a crack to protect your second. Continue onward rightwards for approx 6m with tricky moves up to a good platform and belay. (VS)

2. 18m Move up leftward off the belay, traversing for approx 9m to a large obvious ledge. Gain groove up on right by way of a short steep wall, and climb groove for 9m threading your way among loose chock stones to a broken ledge. Possibly best to belay from the top of groove rather than in the broken corner above.

3. 18 m Climb crack with questionable rock above for 6 m then step carefully right below a large block system along sloping shelf. Descend 3 m onto large ledge with tree.

4. 37 m From ledge head up to follow obvious crack / corner system above. The rock is not great but decent placements can be found with hexes and nuts. At the top of the crack step left and make a couple of steep moves to gain a series of ledges that allow you to gain a ramp that will take you easily to the top

Seriousness: 2-3

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

Start 4m to the right of Boulder Original in middle of very smooth black slab. Climb direct to top, aiming for top of boulder against skyline. Belay on spike of boulder 6m back on right.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

Start at base of crack at right-hand corner of slab where there is a prominent fault. Move left-handed under edge of overlapping slab. At left-hand point of overlap climb onto wall and move back right-handed to smooth wall and chimney. Back up over chockstone boulders to platform (root belay). Delicate move onto left-hand wall and traverse until wall can be climbed directly or a swing up can be made on small block. Move left- handed to finish.

Begin in the shallow corner just right of the arete in front of #7. The groove left of the hanging gardens. Climb the left-side, hand-sized crack in the shallow double corner to a hammered pin at 6m. Continue up slightly overhanging crack to anchors at top of left-side arete.

Start at right-hand corner. Up groove 6m. Across platform to left and out onto face. Climb this - 12m. Climb to notch to finish - 10m.

Hike to the base of the cliff (you can either go around the slabs to the left, or solo up). There's an easy way which takes about 20 minutes from the campsite, ask someone to show you (GPS track as of December 2019: http://tinyurl.com/wcnx8ya)

Fish’s 40th birthday present. The rock is solid with excellent friction but sharp. As it hasn't seen much traffic yet, take a helmet.

1. 35 meters. Starting at the belay anchor (two bolts) at the top of the easy slabs, up and then leftwards to a grassy ledge with the anchor on its right. Mantle no.1 onto the ledge.

2. 30 meters. Traverse right from the ledge then follow the bolts to an anchor on a slab. Mantle no.2 around the 5th bolt. Beware of the loose flake after this, don’t pull too hard on it.

3. 20 meters. Straight up to the slight overhang, Mantle No.3, then traverse a few meters leftwards to find an anchor on the arrete.

4. 30 meters. Up the arete and then traverse right past a big block (mantle on this if you feel like) resting on the slab. The anchor bolts are on the giant boulder.

Bring 11 quickdraws + biners for the anchors.

You can abseil down the route with a 60m rope (don't forget knots as some of the abseils are nearly exactly 30m). You can also walk down (climber's left after going behind the huge rock).

Start 2m to right of pigeon-hole in Boulder Two on smooth slab. Direct ascent to ledge and then to an almost-detached flake 2m above on wall. Continue direct to top. Belay 6m back on boulder.

The next jamming crack with a narrowing in the middle. The narrowing is hard to pass and the top is still hard.

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

Start on the right-hand corner of crag from point of almost-detached flake. Keep generally to corner of crag, climb crack to top.

Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best!

Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

Fun slabby route that finishes under the tree.

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

The crack 1.5 m right of Doddle is capped by an overhang at 6 m. The route follows the crack. Climb the crack to the roof which is passed on the right. Traverse left across block and round the arete until polished cracked slabs can be easily followed to the traverse line.

Next right from Lot’s Mistress. The steep jamming crack between the pillars, with no resting place and no protection.

The twin cracks right of the hanging gardens. The upper part is hard as the obviously rotten jug on the left is ignored.

The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.

1. 30 m Climb crack until a move right can be made onto a ledge. Move along this and belay in niche up on right.

2. 30 m Up slightly then step right on buttress and up to ledge. Move up left then back right to steep black wall which is climbed to belay at triangular flake.

3. 25 m Up ramp and ridge to belay below overhangs.

4. 37 m (THIS PITCH HAS CHANGED) From in situ belay peg, traverse 2 m left to break leading up through overhangs. Now traverse right across slabs to finishing gully. Seriousness: 3

Take Arthur's Horror as far as the big block belay below the final pitch. Take the obvious flake up from here and step right to small ledge. Continue up rightwards to a point below bolt. This route thrillingly makes its way up to the right of the bolt, edges leftwards above and up (fixed peg pro), to awkward moves on final few feet of cliff. You'll love every second! Downgrade to E2 6a in 2022.

Start in groove 5m left of Jacob’s Ladder route. Traverse out onto left-hand wall. Continue climb moving slightly right-handed but not meeting Jacob’s Ladder.

Start at foot of large fig tree in gully. Layback to top of flake on right. Traverse left a few feet to ledge at foot of upper gully. From here thin twin cracks up right- hand corner of gully take route out onto face on right which is then climbed direct.

Start at base of face below apex of groove 2.5m' to right of tree at ground level. Climb left to overhang at easiest point, surmount this and move up to reasonable rock that leads to finish.

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Further round corner to right at narrow crack with fig tree. Climb crack in entirety, including section above ledge. Rejoin route at ledge and finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

Start at point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground. Move right-handed to platform, ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish in bushy trees. Abseil from here Two alternate starts may be made: Superdirect and Supersuperdirect.

Start at foot of rib to left of crack with nettle tree. Follow rib for 25m, move right to platform. Left-handed to final wall and twin cracks, finish on right of these.

At the extreme right end of the Main Wall there is an obvious corner where the cliff bends sharply into Entrance Wall. This route makes its way up to the left of the corner. Start below the prominent nose by a large detached block.

1. 25 m. Climb onto block then up steep crack to ledge. Follow crack above until it is possible to step right, then up blocks to good belay.

2. 25 m. Climb above belay and step right to ledge. Now up to higher ledge, from where a traverse leads left for 5 m to a crack. Up this and belay on a detached block. Peg belay.

3. 30 m. Straight up slabs above for 10 m to recess (peg runner). Descend a few feet then traverse left across steep wall to crack. Up this to ledge then finish up broken rock to the right. Seriousness: 3

Start on sandy coloured tower to left of standard route. 7m - Up tower in middle. 12m - Up red wall on right of gully. 9m - Slightly left to climb ‘cheese rings’ to left hand end of overhang and take this direct. An alternative start may be made up the black groove to the left of the sandy-coloured tower. An alternative finish is to climb through the nick in the overhang to the right.

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

At the foot of the West Rib there is an obvious edge with a blank wall on its right. Up delicately, then layback to easier wall above and join route.

The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit.

Start almost precisely halfway between Tombstone and Hammer and Sickle and go straight up to the right- angled corner at the left-hand end of the overhang. Climb to corner and finish on the upper slab.

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse.

Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.)

Nice sport route with some steep moves.

Long sport route traversing left. Take care as some of the bolts are on loose rock.

The left of twin cracks in the next square corner. Probably the easiest of the jam cracks, though awkward to start. Climbed on a rope, but has since been led.

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

About 9 m right of 'The Springer' is a prominent corner curving up rightwards. Start below this.

1. 19 m Climb corner moving right at top and along ledge to belay.

2. 15 m Move up leftwards into obvious cracks which are climbed direct to ledge.

3. 15 m Follow prominent rampline rightwards.

4. 9 m Now traverse left across steep black wall to ledge.

5. 25 m Move straight up behind ledge into little groove which is climbed direct to top.

2019 update: Can be climbed in three pitches by combing pitches 2 and 3 and pitches 4 and 5. Best climbed with two ropes to manage rope drag, in particular for last pitch.

In middle of face is a pile of boulders with a large fig tree in groove behind and dead tree stump on platform. The climb starts from this platform. Routes leading to platform: (a) 6m Diff. Up fig tree root and move left to platform. (b) 7m Severe. Right-hand corner of pile of boulders into small sentry box. Hand-traverse left-handed and climb boulders to platform. From platform awkward step leads to wall and 3m of climbing left-handed leads into crack. Follow this line of weakness until quartz band is reached. Move left-handed and up to finish. Alternate finish: (very hard, no protection) move right on quartz and take slab direct.

5m to the right of the start to Cemetery Wall is a thin crack which begins to open at 6m. Start from the tree stump at blank wall. Move up on thin flakes to a old bolt. Layback and jam to the widening of the crack. Strenuous. Continue more easily up the crack. Step right onto face from two moves then back into the crack. Tree belay.

Begin just around the left side of the arete from Bouboulinas Street. Climb the left-leaning corner up a variety of moves to a fixed pin at 5m. Move into a rightward layback and climb to 10m. Move around arete to the anchors of Bouboulinas Street on right. Poor protection; best done on toprope from Bouboulinas Street.

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

1. 26m. Climb to the cave belay.

2. From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

On the left side of the cliff on the brown/orange wall. Up the prow, moving right to the finish. The crux moves between the second and third bolt is as good as any 3* boulder problem in Lukenya. As of 28 Feb 2021 there is no anchor, so either top out or make an extended rope anchor from the tree at the top of the crag.

Begin on a series of delicate moves on the right-hand face of the shallow corner. Use both the crack in the corner and the right-hand face and arete to move up past three hammered pitons and five aid bolts to anchors on top of arete. Micros and small nuts or clip old aid bolts

The next corner right. Well protected and easier than it looks. The top overhang is turned on the right, whereupon an exit left can be made.

The ultimate package! About 3m right of Frogman there is a break through the overhang. Layback overhang and cruxy move onto wall. Up to bolt on right. Step left then up to horizontal crack. Step left and continue strenuously leftwards.

2020 edit: This was originally given the grade of E3 5c, but at some point many bolts were added, essentially making this a sport climb with a few metres of easy traditional climbing at the top. The grade has been changed to a sport grade to reflect this. Do still take a few cams and nuts to protect the top after the last bolt.