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Bukit Jernih Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Aneng SoonMing Marek Guilhem Piquemal

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Bukit Jernih 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.548135, 100.268497

summary

This place is better known by local as an attraction for its river called Sungai Jernih.

description

There is a massive face here with serious potential for some great multi pitch lines. This face is not bolted but there have been some trad ascents on it. Contact the Perlis Climbers if you’re interested in an amazing project.

The other area with the bolted lines is a covered section. Climb here all day, rain or shine.

Local restaurant is just a stone throw away at the base camp of Sungai Jernih, cheap and decent.

access issues

Drive to Sungai Bukit Jernih (6.5433359, 100.2683873), here google says the road ends... but it doesn’t, keep following the road and turn left about 200m past the soccer field to get to Peha Ayam section.

history

The massive big wall face of Bukit Jernih is said to be aid ascent by local bat faeces collector with only ropes and harness made up by ropes. The local collectors also put up a massive 10 meters long wooden ladder on the access point to a small cave to collect bat faeces. By looking at the shear size of the ladder from far away can be quite impressive about how the locals put up such a heavy ladder without modern climbing equipment back in the days.

1.1. Peha Ayam 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 6.548137, 100.268502

description

Easy access, a few climbs here from 6B to 8A. 4 open projects that are likely in the high sevens or eights. Awesome place to climb if it’s raining. Trees and a roof provide shade all day.

approach

After you drive past the soccer field, in about 200m turn left. Follow the road for about 300m to (6.5481660, 100.2684580). Park on the side of the road and the climbing is right there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Voodoo Boy

FA: Aneng, 24 Oct

Set: Zul Hafifi, 24 Oct

6a+ Sport 15m, 5
2 More Powder More Power

Set: A'an, 24 Oct

FA: Aneng, 25 Dec

6b Sport 15m, 4
3 Rimau Tok Sheikh

FA: Zul Hafifi, 2022

Set: Zul Hafifi, 2022

5c+ Sport 15m, 6
4 Mat Sasau

FA: Aneng, 24 Oct

Set: Aneng, 24 Oct

6a Sport 15m, 3
5 Tree Hugger

FA: Aneng, 24 Oct

Set: Akif Nukman, 24 Oct

5c Sport 15m, 5
6 Stoned Stinger

FA: Akif Nukman, 24 Oct

Set: Akif Nukman, 24 Oct

7a Sport 15m, 4
7 No Name

Slick slab to get to the “chicken bone”. Set some protection (a sling around a tufa) on the tufa in the cave and lean out to clip the first bolt. Climb out of the cave and make your way up.

6c+ Sport 17m
8 Nafas Baru

Very high first bolt, but it’s safe if you approach it the right way. Climb up the slick slab to the cave and climb inside of the cave, set up a sling on a tufa and clip in. Now you can go for the first bolt.

Climb out of the cave and over the tufas to more tufas.

FA: Zam Hamid

6b Sport 15m
9 Open Project 1

2 open Project lines share the same first few bolts

SportProject
10 Open Project 2

Shares the first few bolt with the first open project route.

SportProject
11 King Of North

Shares the same first few bolt with open project 3. Recommended if you love steep overhang dyno.

Set: Amirul & Danial Idraki

FA: Dzukram

8a Sport 12m, 6
12 Queen of North

Continue right after the original anchor of King of North. Open project.

SportProject

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5c Tree Hugger Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Peha Ayam
5c+ Rimau Tok Sheikh Sport 15m, 6 1.1. Peha Ayam
6a Mat Sasau Sport 15m, 3 1.1. Peha Ayam
6a+ Voodoo Boy Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Peha Ayam
6b More Powder More Power Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Peha Ayam
Nafas Baru Sport 15m 1.1. Peha Ayam
6c+ No Name Sport 17m 1.1. Peha Ayam
7a Stoned Stinger Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Peha Ayam
8a King Of North Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Peha Ayam
? Open Project 1 SportProject 1.1. Peha Ayam
Open Project 2 SportProject 1.1. Peha Ayam
Queen of North SportProject 1.1. Peha Ayam
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