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Top of the World Buttress All Trad climbing 5 routes in crag

Grade context: FR

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Description

Drive in as for Wied Fham West Side. Scramble down near the metal bollards, then down the boulder field and rubble filled gully to the right (looking down). Walk west beneath the lines from the Cikka area for about 150m, past a boulder field then a cave to reach a 15m buttress. An excellent short wall just under the lines, worth putting up with the trek and the brambles at the bottom.

Access issues inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Ethic inherited from Victoria Lines

As with most of Malta bolting is discouraged, a few exceptions are allowed

As rap points, and
where ground strikes are likely

but otherwise there are enough points to place gear

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Routes

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From the top of the leaning block, move straight u pjust right of and easier groove. Gain the vegetated ledge and base of an alcove. Climb to the right of this passing a welcome (T). Going directly past the alcove is HVS

Start from the block, then move up diagonally right to gain the base of the diagonal right-facing flake crack. Move up a steep wall to gain this feature and follow it to the top.

Start from man-eating vegation about 6m right of the leaning block. Up the center of the buttress to the base of the left-facing flake crack. Up this to the top.

The slab and bulge, replete with a right-facing flake. Brilliant if you can get to the base of the route.

Start just right of Top of the World, moving up to a steep, featureless wall. Gain a (t), finishing up the right-slanting ramp line. Poor gear.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Sport Climbing in Malta and Gozo Guidebook

Author(s): Simon Alden, Jeffery Camilleri, and Stevie Hasten

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9789995706197

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found on the Maltese Islands of Malta and Gozo, covering 21 crags and over 500 fully bolted sport routes, across a wide range of grades up to F8c+.

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Malta Rock Climbing