Routes in Malta for selected grade

The diagonal crack through the overhang just right.

Using the slot for the right, gain the black flowstone with the left and then the good flat hold above. Continue up.

The easiest combination, from the slot with your right gain the flat hold direct with your left. Push for a jug high right. Slap up left.

Get the high jug via moves to the right of the slot

Using hidden holds in a horizontal break. Dyno to a good jug up and left.

Follow Lefty for a few moves. Up and left for 1 or 2m. Go horizontally left along the lip of the roof then along a pockety orange wall. Continue to where it eases. Quite pumpy.

Round and left of the left arete of the narrow wall, climb the overhanging groove to its top and exit right. Step back left and climb the less steep and escapable shallow groove.

Climb up to a thin crack veering to the left. Follow its general direction through a sparse collection of good holds before exiting up.

The climb is poorly protected. Climb up to a sling about half way up the route and continue slightly to the right to access a good sling protection on the right of the right black streak. Move back to the left for the exit.

Climb from a corner at the bottom of the valley to a good ledge. Continue up a small overhang and then straight up.

P1 - Ascend through the weakness in the overhangs. Climb the slab above aiming for its top left side.

P2 - Up the centre of the steeper slab above. Continue up with difficulty to a narrow ledge (a hanging plaque commemorates the 1st and 2nd ascents). Sign the guest book!

P3 - Continue up the exposed slab with good moves and exposure to the top.

Line of ring bolts 3m right of RRR. Super climbing, past a couple of bulges, with awesome features along the way.

2m right of Revolver.

Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole.

50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush.

20m 4a. Up easy slabs above

Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack.

7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds.

20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay.

40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow.

20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent!

A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?.

1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge.

2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left.

3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge.

Brilliant lay-backing up the right side of the perched flake, starting at a shallow gully right of the dry stone wall, finishing up the thin diagonal crack.

Start in the middle of the vegetated ledge system. Up a poorly protected slab to better geared slabs then small ledges below the steep wall. Gain a diagonal fault (camming Ns). Spaced hidden moves out right then a step back left over an overlap to reach a belay.

From the ledge diagonally left up the darkly coloured wall to a crack, (where you'll find an old piton). Up to a sloping ledge then the wall above. Move left to a crack in the rib. Up this until 5m below the top you can follow the diagonal crack heading right to finish.

Climb the steep flake crack on the right side of the cave past an old piton trending left. Finish up the excellent crack and wall above.

Climb awkwardly out of the back of the recess below Snowman, then finish up the wall trending right

Start right of centre of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Go directly up the slab. Cross a horizontal break, then finish up the stained slab passing the overhangs on your right.

Takes the centre of the slab below the gap in the skyline overhangs. Bold finish.

Step off a pointed brown flake and gain horizontal cracks. Trend past some rugosities. Go up to another horizontal break. Finish as for Island Games

Starts at the bottom of the gully on the slab to the right

Re-evaluated today with Andy Warrington for sure an E2

Follow the corner moving left across a slab below a bush to gain a ramp. The bulge above to gain a crack constitutes the crux. Finish by traversing right past a nose to easier ground. If you are not imaginative in placing gear the grade will feel harder.

The grey slabs to the right of CTTC

The concrete filled groove on the right. Delicate and thin to start but gets progressively easier

Climb the large overhang at the righthand end of the righthand cave where a thread is visible at the lip of the overhang.

Climb the central pillar above two mini caves to the niche, then move left past a hole to finish up the pocketed overlap.

Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs

The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best

Start as for The Gape but continue directly over the roof on good jugs.

The center of the wall

Pockets just left of Birds Nest Crack.

Just to the right of Razor crack, climb the whitish streak on the left side of the grey wall.

The bulge at the righthand end of the wall and above the start of the approach traverse

The lefthand thin crack line right of the scoop with an awkward move to gain a ledge at half height. Step right to finish

Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards.

A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole.

The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish.

A small brown overhang left of the alcove direct

The left arete of the alcove, starting at a stalactite. Climb left of the thick black streak