Twin Caves



Access issues inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Ethic inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.


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Grade Route

Scramble to the floor of the orange cave. From its left end climb up to an obvious crackline, following it past a cave on the left, finishing up a cosy groove.

From the floor of the orange cave, left of the central pillar, layback a steep crack to a ledge and good spike runner. Move right to the top of a corner crack then up to a ledge and finish up the short leaning wall on the right.

Climb the steep flake crack on the right side of the cave past an old piton trending left. Finish up the excellent crack and wall above.

Start at the tongue of grey rock just right of the orange cave. Climb the tongue to a platform and angular recess, exiting by its left edge.

Up to the left ramp, just left of the main cave, then cracks and a v-recess to finish.

Climb the left buttress of the main cave to the base of the tall scoop then trend left to finish up the sharp wall.

Steep climbing up the scoop in the left wall of the large cave.

The smooth scoop on the right wall of the cave. Up to the thread then swing right and up the crack and wall more delicately

A thin line up the left rib of the central pillar via a small spike

A classic that follows the crack and left slanting groove on the right of the pillar.

Start inside the smaller cave. Climb the left wall and into the powdery scoops trending right past a thread. Exit the overhang at the apex of the cave.

Climb awkwardly out of the back of the recess below Snowman, then finish up the wall trending right

The left sloping crack on the buttress to the right is climbed until a step right to a flake can be made. Mantelshelf over a bulge to gain the final slab.


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Alden, Jeffery Camilleri, and Stevie Hasten

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9789995706197

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found on the Maltese Islands of Malta and Gozo, covering 21 crags and over 500 fully bolted sport routes, across a wide range of grades up to F8c+.

Author(s): J. Codling, A. Warrington & R. Abela

Date: 2022

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