Routes in Querétaro for selected grade

The classic on the Northwest side. Exposed ridge climbing to the summit with great views on excellent rock.

Access either from Rancho Chichi'Dho or the Bernal parking above the city. Follow the trail that links the parking with Chichi'Dho until you see the nice wooden sign for El Filo Noroccidental. Hike up the trail, pass the huge overhanging boulder on the left and take the trail left to the wall. You will find expansion and glue-in bolts next to each other on pitch one.

Descent: There are 2 options, on the summit either hike left and pass the crosses. Scramble down a few round boulders (past some anchors) towards the top of the via ferrata. Rap down in 2 rappels along the via ferrata (if you have a 80m rope you can make it down to the first 4 iron bars of the ferrata in one go and downclimb the last few meters). Scramble down until you reach the tourist path and hike back to town. Alternatively there is a brand new rap line (as of March 2019) right on the summit just a few meters from the top anchor of El Filo Noroccidental.

• Pitch 1: Climb the slabby face, pass some bushes. Very well bolted (re-bolted with glue-ins), about 14 draws required.

• Pitch 2: Trend right from the anchor of P1 and continue on the slab with some more vertical sections. The first few meters lead you passed some bushes. Re-bolted with glue-ins.

• Pitch 3: Nice slab climbing on extremly featured rock until you reach a gully with a small face on its left leading to the ridge-line. Re-bolted with glue-ins.

• Pitch 4: From the anchor of P3 pass the gully and climb the face. You will see a slightly rusty bolt on the face from the anchor. Climb up to the rige-line and through nice features along it. From now on the bolting is more alpine and the next bolts harder to find - just keep climbing ;-).

• Pitch 5: There are multiple options for pitch 5. If ou have a 70 or 80m rope make this a very long pitch, just climb along the ridge-line and pass 2 anchors until the ridge is really narrow with chain anchors on it. With a shorter rope you might want to stop at one of the earlier anchors and make pitch 6 longer. Very exposed climbing with almost no bolts.

• Pitch 6: If you have pushed to the 70m anchor, this pitch is short and better protected. It ends on a huge ledge with anchors on the face above it.

• Pitch 7: A one move 5.10a up the face followed by nice slabby ridge-climbing to the summit.

Additional gear: not really needed, you might want to sling one or the other chicken-head.

Right of U2.

Right of U4.

The second most popular route on the wall. It can be linked to el Filo Suroeste.

Left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall.

The black and water-polished route in the middle of the wall.

Un multilargo muy bonito, el inicio es lo más duro de la ruta. Para identificarle los bolts son rosas. En el 2° largo se debe hacer una travesía a la izq para juntarse con La Bernalina o travesía a la derecha para seguir en ELODLL. A la derecha el grado es más fuerte.

To the right of Gigio (right of La Bernalina). Better protected than LB.

7m up past HDE. Last route on this wall. Can take trad gear to protect certain runouts.

First route on the left when entering the Ravine. Crimpy.

Left of LQSA.

Left of LVE.

Born from the vision of Jerry and Annette Daniels, Wings of the Wind starts at the base of the Pena Gorda following a series of ramps and faces to join the upper pitches of Filo Noroccidental making a superb route of 14 pitches. Completed in 2020 over a 2 month period the pair lead bolted every pitch to make an authentic journey through the immaculate stone of the Pena De Bernal.

Pitch 4: there are two options for climbing pitch 4, one goes straight up the gold face at 10+ and the other starts slightly to the left and follows an arching curve at 10- but can be french freed.

Pitch 6: From the top of pitch 6 use the cable hand rail and walk 50 feet to the right to the start of pitch 7.

Pitch 7: At the top of pitch 7 coil the rope and walk on clean rock trending right to the start of the trail on the right hand side of the wall. Follow the trail down to the base of pitch 8.

Pitch 10: 4 alpine draws are very helpful for eliminating rope drag on pitch 10! The are needed at the first three bolts after the step-across move.

Pitch 11: bypass the two glue in bolts and continue up to the next set of anchors at 40m.

Pitch 13: at the top of 13 use new glue in bolts 5m past the old rusty anchor bolts to belay.

It is possible to link pitches 2 and 3. pitches 5 and 6. pitches 8 and 9 can also be linked but a running belay of 30 feet is needed due to the length of the pitches.

The First climb put up on lead at this fantastic crag. Don't let the grade fool you. You are in for a sweet ride!

Tighten your laces for this one. Super tecky start on small feet and hands lead to a super finish. Don't let your guard down!

Armador.- Marciano

Armador.- Marciano

Armador.- Marciano

Armador.- Marciano

Armador.- Luis Cajero perfecta para principiantes una de las rutas clasicas.

Una entrada complicada pero con buenos agarres para llegar a una grieta grande y agarres buenos laterales.

Armada por.-Ulises Cervantes Primer largo 5.10b , Segundo largo 5.8. Para el segundo rapel tener cuidado con el arbol de inicio, la cuerda puede llegar a enredarse en el.

Armada por.- Carlos Steck & Alfredo Ponce Ruta corta perfecta para empezar.

Ruta por el costado izquierdo de la pared.

Arranque muy tranquilo, el crux esta entre la tercer y cuarta placa, la ruta va sobre una grieta. sliedo el cruz se hace escalada tipo diedro.

Inicio tipo boulder, el crux es de la segunda a la tercer banda, saliendo de este es puro tramite, las primeras 3 placas se proteje con mano derecha las demas con izquiera. No retirarce mucho de las placas.

Inicio poco técnico para escalar a favor hasta las ultimas dos placas y de la ultima placa a las cadenas hay una pequeña hebra con con vuelo limpio

Vía con agarres grandes y ligero desplome

Inicio de bloque a un slab facil

Se encuentra a 50m a la derecha de la tufa bola-hongo de "Maestro Requesón". Inicia a la izquierda de la pequeña cueva en la base de la pared

Inicia a la orilla derecha entre una tufa y un gran bloque que forman una especie de chimenea