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La Muela

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 10
1
YDS
5.8

Description

La Muela is a fun sector for sport climbing, short multi pitches, trad, slack line and aid climbing. Great views, solid rock.

Approach

To get to “LA MUELA” you have to park in the ranger’s station that is about half a mile from the main valley next to the main road, then you might have to pay $38 pesos (make sure you get your receipt), the path starts next to the parking lot on the wooden steps, follow the signs, you’ll have to walk for abut a mile, halfway through the path you’ll fina a wooden bench, take the path to the right, it will go up and then you’ll find wood steps that go down (mind your steps, sometimes they are loose), after you reach the bottom of the rock this steps will start to go up, the last part is a very easy climb to the top, you’ll find a great view there but the routes are at the bottom of the cliff, so you’ll need to get down. There are two ways to get down, yo can rappel from the top (this is the easiest and safer), you’ll need a 70 meter rope, there are some great bolts set by slackliners that you can use to set your rappel. The second way to get down is to go down about 3 meters to a small rest before the summit, then go around the rock, this is going to look sketchy because it looks like you’re walking toward a big drop but you’re not, you will need to climb down for a bout 25 meters then traverse to your right to go over a rock wall, the rock is pretty solid, holds won’t fall, but be careful, its a big drop, if you want you can set a line in some bolts that you will find on your way down, although some of them are missing. This two ways to get down get you to the same spot at the bottom of the cliff, from there you need to traverse to a rock bridge (watch out for snakes), you might have to go through a very slippery and wet part, you can set a rappel from a tree for safety.

Descent notes

To get out you can climb the wall on the left side and set to rappels in the other side, from there you need to find your way through the woods and find the wooden bench. You can also climb your way to the top following the instructions on how to get down.

History

History timeline chart

Some routes were set by Zenón Rosas, a local climber and teacher to most of local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Route to the top of the tower at the middle of the rock formation, great solid holds, great view from the top. The route starts at the rock bridge, on the right side. The first pitch anchor is a very big, very old but very solid metal ring, most carabiners’ gates wont open that wide so you need a sling. The second pitch has no bolts, but its probably a 5.5, the anchor at the top is new.

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