Cerro Brujo




This place is the middle of the forest, full of nature and surrounded by a river. It hosts around 80 routes - the vast majority of which haven't been uploaded to the crag but many have their name and grade painted at the base making it easy to just show up and figure it out. Mostly west facing, in summer the wall was in full sun a little after midday and cooled down again around 5pm.


Cerro Brujo is a project to develop climbing and caves for shelter as a hostel for visitors. The place belongs to "Soda", a very easygoing guy, he bolted most of the cliff. There's a fee to entrance of $50 pesos $3usd approx. The fee feels justified when you see all the installations - plenty of space to chill in hammocks, shade structures, a 'baño seco' and various art installations. Which are much appreciated in the heat of the day.

The hike is good for warm up and the crag is nice and soft, grades go from 5.9 to 5.13c, most of the routes are sport but there are a couple of multipitch and some trad.

Access issues

By bus: Take a bus to Jalcomulco from Veracruz. By car: Drive to Xalapa then to Coatepec and finally to Jalcomulco.

There are 2 options to park, 1)Go to Selva Azul, a truistic center or 2)Go to downtown.

The pace is always open, best season is on winter because of the warm weather. Jalcomulco is famous because people go to the river to do kayaking.


Go to downtown and ask for the elementary school "Ursulo Galvan" is on a double way street, the only one in town with median (strip), you are going to have downtown behind and you'll be facing the elementary school, walk to the left all the way until street ends (best place to leave car) follow the road and find the river, (ask for Cerro Brujo if you see a neighbor) go to the left side and find the road on the other side of the river, you'll see all the way long purple/blue dots on rocks that drive you to the crag, continue on the road until you'll find a concrete road turn right and keep walking until you see a pipe go around (look for the blue dots) and start the hike. You'll find a door made by roots keep hiking until you see the wall.

Where to stay

At Soda's place is a good option if you have some extra bucks. If you want something cheap go to downtown, there are a lot of two-bit hotels to stay.


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Grade Route

Around the corner, after the "escuelita" section, overhang, short, fun route.

Just before Kodama, going up to Queens sector. Juggy overhang.

To the left of Anatomía de los errores

Crux in the first 2 bolts

Starts left from Desobediencia Crónica, on top of the kitchen.

Starts right from the kitchen entrance. Easy route. First pitch ends in the cave; with a 35m rope you can keep climbing up to the second anchor.

Starts right from Desobediencia Crónica. First pitch ends on the legde, with a 35m rope you can keep climbing up to the second anchor. Second pitch is 5.11c

This was the first route bolted on the cave, starts on the left side of Soda's nest, right above the ladder. Pumpy & fun, be careful not to upset the falcon.

Starts on the ledge where PDE ends. Follow the ledge to the left and enter back to the slab whenever you see bolts. The crux is reaching for the soap-holder, feels way harder than 12a. Alternatively, you can continue through the corner for an easier finish.

Mostly a jug haul, this route passes through a series of huecos, the fist of which is inhabitants by bats. A fair chuck fell off near the top and the it is now generally considered easier than 11a

An engaging route right of the ground with a distinct, and well-protected crux. Trends right into the crack to share chains with Yo Kritico.

Sustained + Intense! Be ready to jam your hands into the upper crack.

Right in the corner after "Yo Critico"


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