Towards the top of the Tarahumara Pass there is 5 AM Breakfast. After scrambling up through a bunch of 4th class you will find yourself at the base of this climb.
Approach: From the same path that leads to "Zapatista Wall" / "Land of the Free Wall", follow indications towards the "Tarahumara Pass", making your way up. Once you reach a large scree field and start seeing branching paths, start looking left for a path that will soon (50m) become 3rd class, then 4th class. Once on the correct path, it is very obvious. If doubting your choice of path, you're probably on the wrong one. The path is almost lined up with the smaller peak on the ridge after buzz rock.
Some may want a quick belay across the more exposed part of the approach. There is a sling nest to belay a second from if needed. DO NOT rappel of of it into the left gully on the way down, some have reported bad experiences.
Max bolts per pitch 9.
5.9: climb up interesting features, around the corner, back to the face and up the pillar. Short pitch with lots of drag if not carefully managed. Relatively uncomfortable belay stance.
5.9+: Cross over to the main wall and begin traversing up and right until you reach a fist-sized crack. After a few crack/dihedral moves, make your exit onto the left face (little chossy) and up to a good belay ledge. Can be linked with the previous one if you're experienced with skipping bolts, back cleaning and general rope drag management.
5.10a: A very unique and interesting pitch offering great exposure as you climb face moves with air on both sides. Just below the anchor your get an opportunity to make a few chimney moves if that's your jam. Otherwise, stick to the great face climbing.
5.9: A short pitch that should not exist. Make your way to the obvious start of the p5 feature to a hanging belay 10m up the crack. This belay will be straight in line for rock falls and is uncomfortable.
5.10b: Follow the obvious feature that brought you to this far place. Great pitch of stemming with exposure and consistency. Should be linked with p4 and p6 for maximum value.
5.8: Another short pitch that is used for descending with a 60m rope but should be linked for maximum value and pitch efficiency.
Rap beta :
*With a 70 m rope you can rap the last two pitches as one. Then single raps to the ground.
*With a 60 m rope you need to do the short rap of the last pitch. Rap the 6 pitches of the route.
*With twin ropes, rappel from the top of to the anchor of P3. Then a single-length rappel. Then you could make it to the ground and walk around the pillar back to the start (bush + cactus) or make two more single raps to get back the way you came up.
