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Description

This wall is the right side of the Los Lobos canyon.

Routes are described Right to Left, that is from lowest (closest to the road) to farthest up canyon.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Approach

Routes are accessed by scrambling up the trail/scree along the wall. Try to stay close to the wall, this is generally easier than scrabbling up the scree in the center of the canyon.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Rock: Roca suelta cerca del 5º bolt

FA: Mike Burdon & Kyle McCallum

FA: Magic Ed & Bobby Young

Warning Rock: Loose Rock at the 2nd bolt

FA: Mike Burdon, 2016

About 2 meters left of Wolf of the Desert

Set by Don Loro, Alysson Franklin & Miguel, 24 Jun 2017

FA: Don Loro & Alysson Franklin, 24 Jun 2017

50' up the trail from "El Cacharro".

Pitch 2, trend right from the anchor.

FA: Rusty Baillie & Magic Ed

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Never Cry Wolf", climb straight up from the anchor on "gold" hangers.

FA: Magic Ed & Mike Quigley

Start 5' right of "The Blacksmith".

FFA: Stella Adams & John Adams

1st pitch has 7 bolts, 2nd pitch has 5 bolts.

FFA: Stella Adams & John Adams

Warning Fixed Gear: bolt 9 & 1

FA: Magic Ed & Ralph Vega

FA: Mitch Duncan & Mike Burdon

FA: Magic Ed & Ralph Vega

35m of fun and easy jug-hauling up the long, less-than-vertical wall.

(There may be more climbing above the anchors that are at 35m that is harder than 5.7 -- but to the obvious anchors is about 5.7 climbing. Several other listings have grades 5.9-5.10a and lengths of 45m/150ft.)

FA: Magic Ed & Annabel Raab

FA: Magic Ed, Tami & Annabel Raab

FA: Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pons & Birddog

FA: Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pons & Birddog

The main route goes straight up at the first anchor for the second pitch or you can take the easier variation on the 2nd pitch of Palm Snake which has you going left at the first anchor and is called Palms Away and goes at 5.10a.

FA: Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pons & Birddog

FA: Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pons & Birddog

Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.

  1. 5.8 30m. Climb up a broken pillar leaning against the wall to a good ledge.

  2. 5.9 25m. Climb up over a small roof then follow a left-facing corner with some tough layback moves.

  3. 5.9 40m. Climb consistently good movement past an intermediate rappel anchor to a belay in an alcove.

  4. 5.10a 15m. Step down and right from the alcove onto the steep face, then up to the top of the ridge.

Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground.

FA: Magic Ed, Dane Bass & Ralph Vega

FA: Rodman

FA: Magic Ed & Craig McCudden

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