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Description

A very varied wall with easier and slabby routes down low, some multi-pitch routes and vertical routes on pocketed limestone higher up. The higher section stays in the shade most of the day in December / January but the climbs are in the sun in mid / late afternoon.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Approach

Hike up like for Mini Super and continue along the cliff, you will first reach some easier slabby but nice routes on dark grey rock. Continue higher up on a partially steep path to reach the next routes until you reach a small plateau for more pocketed routes. Hike down a few meters for the last routes and to continue to The Conundrums.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Norma Torres & Mark Grundon

FA: Mark Grundon & Cope Fernandez

7 bolts to first anchor and 8 more to the top. Balancy second pitch trending left.

From the top of the 4th pitch you can use the 5th pitch which climbs up and over a bit of a scramble to a garden area above.

Shares anchor with first pitch of "TNT Route".

2nd pitch has two variations. The one that is the original goes right and up and crosses over the route Agua de Coco and finishes out right of that route on it's own anchors. The newer variation that goes up and left finishes at the top of the second pitch of TNT and is known as Scud. 5.10b.

2 60m ropes needed.

The first route on the left once you reach the highest point with a nice plateau. Climbs great pockets and crimps on excellent quality vertical rock.

The middle line of the 3 climbs on the plateau.

FA: John

The right line with the small roof below the anchor.

FA: Jaime Navarrete & Andy Baldassar

The first route a bit downhill from the top. Starts with a crack, trends right and finishes with the dihedral.

Long and closely bolted route finishing right of the dihedral. Easier climbing leads to a steeper finish on pockets and crimps.

Starts down just left of Cyclops on grey rock and about 2 meters left of Argos.

This is the access pitch for The Vatican. Right trending line with some run-outs higher up. Starts just left of the crack / gully with the fixed rope.

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