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The Flamingo Wall

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Description

This is the north facing wall, above the virgin wall -- the routes start about 275ft above the canyon.

The first route ("The Flamingo Wall") is before the cave, the others are after.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Approach

Continue up canyon beyond the stairs, generally staying close to the wall.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route

This are the first 3 routes before the tunnel.

Warning Rock: Pesima estado de ruta, mucha laja suelta y plantas espinosas.

Warning Fixed Gear: Missing hanger - falta placa

Three routes to the left before the tunnel. Slab climb on vegetated terrain. Left of “Bond of Peace”.

FA: Walden Jones, 2019

1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.11-

Has a metal nameplate on the wall. Second route left of the tunnel.

1st pitch (5.9): 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch (5.9): 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

3rd pitch (5.11-): 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Set: Burdon, Brown & Dakota Walz, 2022

1 5.8
2 5.8
3 5.11b

The first two pitches make a nice 2-pitch relaxed 5.8 climb.

Bolts that are just to the left of where you pass through a small cave to continue up canyon.

First two pitches are easy slab, third pitch is long (112ft) up thin face.

This are the 4 routes up on the ledge after crossing the tunnel.

Walk up through the tunnel and continue up and left onto a nice ledge. This is the left most route on the ledge, has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Ed (FA) say 5.10b. Dane says 5.9.

Ed (FA) say 5.10b/c, Dane say 5.9.

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

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