This is the wall located up behind "El Bobo". It is up and left of the ridge that runs from El Toro down towards "El Bobo".

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.


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Grade Route
1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.10b
4 5.9
5 5.9

The infamous new route to the left of "Excalibur" actually climbs fairly well, with the exception of a few chossy sections. Could become much better and safer if the middle section was cleaned up a bit more.

Very high first bolt on P1, but a Tricam in a pocket helps. Otherwise generally well bolted (by EPC standards), though with one run-out on P2.

  1. 30m, 10 bolts. Start a few meters left of Excalibur, in a slightly vegetated gully.

  2. 30m, 8 bolts. Head up rightwards from anchor.

  3. 35m (maybe 36m), 14 bolts. Climb through roofs and dihedrals. To a semi-hanging belay to the right of the route.

  4. 10m, 5 bolts. Short pitch to a small ledge.

  5. 30m, 10 bolts. Up to the top of the ridge.

FA: Matthew Schutz, Erik Kloeker & Devin Moorad, Feb 2020

Continue past "Satori" for another 150 yards or so.

Climbs 1p and 2p of Satori, then traverse left for 3p (5bolts) to ledge for start of p4. Climb slabby face up through p5, p6, p7. 1st and 2nd pitch can be linked with 70m rope, as well as 4th and 5th. Bring 20 draws for linking. Bring 13 draws plus 60m rope for single pitches.

FA: Maki Gorchynsky, Fred Bohm, Scott Moser & Cooper Caillier

Very nice climb! most of the pitches are a bit hard for the grade. Pitch crux is a very technical slab. 2 ropes necessary.

Can be done with an 8 meter rope, but you will have to bail a biner to be able to rap to one of the anchors and also you will have to use the first anchor of Satori to get to the ground.

Long approach, but good climbing. Need 2 ropes.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

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