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Description

The Animas Wall is the most obvious, overhung wall with amazing tufas, easy to find. The rock here is orange/yellow limestone. Most of the lines are amazing to climb and well protected making them instantly classic. The wall sees sun around mid-day, starting at the left end and moving over to the right end. Depending on the season this means sun from about 11 to 2 or 3pm.

Approach

Either walk from Cienega de Gonzales to the crag or drive directly to the base of the crag (4x4 vehicles or motor bikes are recommended).

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

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Routes

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Grade Route

These routes are located at the bottom of Las Animas and are accessible from the river bed. Hike down the road and look at the right.

A route with very old hangers located not far from the wooden structure.

Route has no anchor.

Set: Paya, Feb 2013

DO NOT CLIMB as it is DANGEROUS.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Feb 2013

These are the routes located at the obvious main level from left to right up to the big tree.

The last route on the left of animas wall. Start on watchtower and tread left of pinch -o-rama.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2013

Route full of side-pulls and underclings.Easy jugs finish.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2013

Climbs the dihedral up-right to straight finish to anchors

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2013

Short route with anchor right of the small tree. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny. Watch the loose blocs above the anchors.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2013

Runout. Scary!

FA: poncheese

Starts left of bush to anchor under roof.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011

Going up the yellow rock with a bulge in the middle.Classic crimping up orange bomber rock.

Set: Curtis Love, 2004

Set: jaicrisrthley & Jai Crisrthley, 2014

Starts behind the small tree / bush into the open dihedral. Start on Malavisco and go straight up to a broken hold. Worth doing.CURTIS LOVE 2004

Set: Curtis Love, 2004

Starts on Bongkatron, but finishes on Cara Cortada.

Set: Curtis Love, 2004

Start on the left side of the left boulder detached form the wall, first bolt is high up the wall, a few moves off the boulder.

FA: Brigitterobert

Set: Brigitterobert & Ulricmarch, 2011

The perfect warm-up, super nice climbing on mostly good holds.

Look at the tufa above the first anchor and you just want to climb it! 4 more bolts.Full value and amazing 4 bolts of pure pinching(not)up high.

Set: Paco Medina, 1998

Starts on top of the "middle flake" and finishes with the nice grey tufa. The classic warm-up with great moves on solid stone.

Starts on top of the right (pointy) flake.

Set: jeb vetters, 1998

Starts right of the flakes, has 2 "random" perma draws on it.

Set: jeb vetters, 1998

One of the first routes on Las Animas.Classic.

Set: ArthuroMartinez, PacoMedina, Alejandro & AlejandroPatino

Bajar a la primera reunión para poder descender al piso. Climb culo de la negra and continue for another 20m ,an 80 will get you to the ground.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013

FA: Fernande Calvan, 2011

Second route just left of the big tree.2nd pitch is 5.11d , rarely done because of massive beehive nest 3/4of way up.

Long and sustained climbing, endurance and technical climbing. There is a big wasps nest along the way, you have to literally go through it, but they won’t do anything if you stay calm, move slow and don’t touch the nest. It’s quite a challenge and it adds up to the adventure.

Starts just left of the big tree and crosses right above it. Belayer be careful at the 4th crux moves.

Set: John Garcia, 1997

These are the routes located between the big tree and the fence.

Set: John Garcia & Patrick O'Donnell

Extension de "Tufa Lina"

The obvious grey tufa just right of the big tree where the flat dirt platform meets the dirt road.

Set: andres basich & Santiago Sanchez

FFA: andres basich, 9 Aug 2020

A hold broke at the crux, new grade at 5.13a.

FA: andres basich

Set: andres basich

Climbs the huge tufa. Originally graded 5.11b! It seems a hold broke at the start making it 5.11d or even 5.12a. The boulder start is the crux.

FFA: Ramone Huergo, 1997

Goes up left along the big grey tufa ;-). Steep start and tough finish once you loose the tufa to your right.

Set: Curtis Love, 2009

FFA: martinez y ricarsovara, 2012

FA: Martinez y ricardovara, 2012

It’s the first route to the left of the fence.Dirty corner to a slab with small holds and long resaches. Short. Not worth doing.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012

These routes are located incide the fence. They are closed routes due to the paintings on the wall which date 3000 years old. INAH is the authority responsible for the closure of this area.

Impossible looking orange slab to cool climbing above.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011

Start in the corner with a boulder move and move up through some slab moves(Hard) to reach the tufa and palm tree. Rest. From there, prepare for 25m of super steep and exposed climbing. Probubly the best route of its grade in the park. Closed now due to Historical Research.

Start left of "El Primer Paso" in a corner and continue up passed the anchors for a mind crushing pump.Stellar and super clean.Good job boys!

FA: Devon Junker

Set: Devlin Junker & Adam, 2011

Climb up the left side of the huge tufa.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2011

Climb the blue and orange slab up and left Through tufas and a little surprise at the end. The classic on the wall. Nothing beats it.

Set: Ricardo Ramos, 2000

5 more bolts and 12 meters off the anchors of Bunga Bunga for the grade. Enjoy the runout at the 3rd bolt. If you call this 13c, you obviously had extended draws at the anchors when you did it to help you through the last moves before clipping the actual anchor. Climb it like it was done, then we will talk.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 24 Dec 2011

Share the firsts bolts with “Unga Bunga” and goes right at the 5th bolt through fixed draws for 35M power endurance climbing.

Set: Lolo, 2005

Lower bolts are removed because of petroglyphs higher bolts remain.

Set: James Cruikshank & Diego M

First bolts are chopped. Climbed to the sub anchor(14a) by Ricardo Vara in 2016. Offical FA by Bruno "Machina" Garcia Feb 2019.

These routes are located to the right of the fence. Just where the dirt road meets the wall.

Starts with Dias de Purgatorio but trends out left to the Anchors

Travesía; escalas hasta el descanso de "Días de Purgatorio" y te vas hacia la izquierda en la travesía.

Set: Urs Moosmüller & Ulric Rousseau

Starts just where the road hits the wall on your way down. Same start as Bizzare Contacts and same finish too, but trends left arround the tuffas instead of right.Watch the ground fall at the 2nd and 4th bolts.

Set: Martinez & Moco, 2010

Drive your biceps and fingers through the first crux to a rest, then enjoy the rest of the 5.13 climbing to the anchors. Original entrance through "Bizarre Contact" but when climbed through "Días de Purgatorio" it’s named “Murder Weapon”.

Drive your biceps and fingers through the first crux to a rest, then enjoy the rest of the 13 climbing to the anchors.

Hard bouldery crux at the bottom followed by a good rest and then a heady crux up top. 3 huge tufas mark this route on the right side of the wall near the 4 wheeler trail.

Set: James Carse, 1998

Start on Bizarre Contact and continue straight in between the huge tufas. Needs a good brushing. Bouldery and pumpy in the chains...

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011

Extension of Tufa King Pumped... I hope you like run outs!

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Feb 2012

Hard bouldery route ,short but worth the effort.

FA: Devlin Junker

The extension of Tufa King Short. A little more than 40m long... Use a 70m long rope to go to TKS anchors or a 80m to go all the way down, barely...

Set: David Ramiro Zúñiga, 15 Apr 2020

FA: David Ramiro Zúñiga, 27 Aug 2020

Climb the obvious thin grey streak.

Set: Arturo Martinez, 2008

FA: Alex Honnold, 2009

Climb Dante's inferno and continue for some more. 80 m rope will get you down, barely

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2015

FA: Bruno, Dec 2015

Follow the golden stripe for awesome technical and long climbing.

FA: Anthony Meeks, 2001

La extensión de "El Camino del Chino". Hike camino de chino and check your fears at the door crimp and throw all the way to the anchors.Whippers galor! Run out but safe .

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2012

FA: Moco summer, 2013

Just right of Camino del Chino.

The bolt line just left of the obvious grey tufa.

Set: Patrick O'Donnell

Starts next to the low tufa with some distinct pockets.The oldest route in El Salto . New bolts now make it safe and pleasurable after years of scary run -outs on rusted home made hangers. Hold on at the third bolt.

Set: Paco Medina & Mike Bohorquez, 2011

Right of Pesadilla with a sling on one of the lower bolts. A little bit overgrown by vines.CLimb through ghe low crux at the thrid bolt with a thin pinch and throw.Then ease up and climb 35 m of 11+/12- technical laybacks and thin slab climbing.Can lower off with a 80 m. CAN LOWER OFF WITH A 80M.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2012

Goes to the left.

Set: Dec 2012

Go straight up.Don't expect to flash this. Nothing is what it seems

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2012

Goes to the right. Interesting start treading right to a super jug slab.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2012

Diedro gris. Starts left of the bush.

FA: Norma y, Feb 2013

Route starts left of the tree with a very low first bolt, then goes behind and across the tree to the anchors.Stick clip the second bolt if this is at your limit.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2012

Rightmost route of Las Animas. The route is inclined to the right.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2013

FA: Eva Prado, Dec 2013

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