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Cueva de La Palma

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Description

Cueva a un lado de la carretera ,ubicada enfrente del "El Salto Crag Ground climber campground" Roadside Cave located across the street from "El Salto Crag Ground climber campground" official Morning shade Crag all year round.

Approach

located passed La Cienega de Gonzalez 1 km further from it ,Park on the side of the road and walk 10 seconds.

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

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Routes

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Grade Route

Primera ruta a la izquierda de la pared. diedro tecnico/technical dihedral .35 m long ROUTE BOLTED BY MARK GRUNDON ,FA AND FFA.

Second route from left to right. slabby entry,goes into vertical pockery holds juggy in the end ,fun. 35 m long

variation to the left goes to 5.11 D: bolted by Alejandro Rubi (la banda) & Joe Guadarrama. BOLTED BY :ADIEL VILLANUEVA AND JOE GUADARRAMA.

FFA: Joe Bert

this is the 3rd route from left to right, slabby start ,goes into vertical climbing, fun ,fun ,easiest route in the crag .35 m long

BOLTED BY :ADIEL VILLANUEVA Y JOE GUADARRAMA.

FFA: Joe Bert

13 + Anchors with permanent lower offs.

Slabby starts with pockets, goes into vertical balancy moves, then climbs through a column into a steep bulge super fun moves, juggy in the in the end.

BOLTED BY ADIEL VILLANUEVA & JOE GUADARRAMA

FFA: Joe Bert

this id the fifth route from left to right.climb straight into a Squamish style dihedral ,then goes into a vertical face ,cooked orangy rock, crimpy into side pull jugs, goes a around a blank bulge, keeps going higher into more fun juggy moves. BOLTED BY : MARTIN FELIX & JOE GUADARRAMA.

FFA: Joe Bert

sixth route from left to right. first anchor bolted by : CONNIE DE CATLIN. EXTENSION GOES INTO 5.11A FOR ANOTHER 25 METERS. EXTENSION BOLTED BY RAMON HUERGO. SUPER FUN CLIMBING JUGGY INTO VERTICAL CLIMBING. POCKERY TRICKY MOVES INTO PINCY TUFAS.

FA: RAMON HUERGO

FA: Alex Catlin, 15 Oct 2016

SEVENTH ROUTE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. FIRST PITCH BOLTED BY ALEX CATLIN. SLABBY THING MOVES IN SLAB. 10 METERS LONG

EXTENSION FOR ANOTHER 25 METERS. ROUTE GOES INTO PINCHY TUFA HOLDS AND POCKETS ,THEN INTO LAY BACK DIHEDRAL.PASSED THAT KEEPS GOING INTO POCKETS AND JUGS. EXTENSION BOLTED BY JOE GUADARRAMA.

FA: Joe Bert

FA: Connie Rochelle Catlin, 10 Oct 2016

eight route. SHORT SLABBY ROUTE ,GREAT FOR BEGGINERS!,12 M ROUTE.

FA: Connie Rochelle Catlin, Sep 2016

nineth route . slaby start into vertical tufa climbing and pockets, tight crux ,sloppy, well bolted. sustained and fun!bolted by ALEX CATLIN.25 M (5.11c)

EXNTENSION GOES INTO 35 M 5.11d , KEEP GOING ON FUN JUFFY BALANCY MOVES, THIN CRIMPY INTHE END, NICELY STEEP, MUSSY HOOKS AS FIXED ANCHOR PINTS. BOLTED BY : JOE GUADARRAMA

FFA: Joe Bert

FA: Connie Rochelle Catlin, Sep 2016

10 th route . on of the first lines in the cave but not the first one since Canek & Mudo bolted virus de gallina and arbolito first, they were left uncomplited , many years later Alex Catlin finished them both adding more bolts . this 5.12 a is really good, climb left into a steep section, pull through sloppers ,find your rest and keeo moving through crimps ,sidepulls and balancy reachy moves into cracked dehedral.

FA: canadian climber, 2001

Placa, desplome, descanso, luego placa desplomada para llegar a las cadenas

Climb the slab to the golden tufa. After the rest things get hard again real fast with a bouldery roof, cool rose, and huck to a finishing spike.

FFA: Alex Catlin, Nov 2016

Pasa por el lado izquierdo de la pequeña cueva.

--EN--

Climbs the left side of the small save.

FA: Alex Catlin, Sep 2016

Starts on the slab right under the big stalactite. Hard moves to get to the stalactite. Rest on the right side of the cave. Reachy stemming move to reach the first anchors.

Continue with some nice long moves in pockets to smaller holds for a pumpy extension.

FA: Oct 2016

Very steep, techy and powerful 5.12c. Follow the tufas and slopey huecos, 5 star line, bolted by Canek and Mudo, incompleted, Alex Catlin added one bolt more, anchors and extension. There used to be a small "tree" near the anchors but is not there anymore.

FA: Sep 2016

Extension of Arbolito. The extension goes into 5.13c, it's crimpy, steep, slopey and cruxy.

FFA: Alex Catlin

FA: Alex Catlin

FA: Nov 2016

Variation of arbolito that goes into 5.14a, brutal lineal tufa hard moves into big dyno. Keep it together.

bolted by Ricardo Vara.

longest and steepest line in the the cave, right in the middle , equiped with fixed galvanized chains and permas. super fun huecoey, tufy, solid thing bouldery crux.the goes into more fun climbing. Five star line.

bolted by Joe Guadarrama

FA: Joe Bert

Super fun steep line, goes to the right into fun traverse, pockety, some hand jams and very steep. Then joins mente colmena 5.13 b.

Fixed with rusty new chains.

bolted by JOE Guadarrama

FA: Joe Bert

Fun huecoey traverse to the left, climb all the huecos, goes all the way to Arbolito`s anchor, crosses ununpentium as well. 5 star line. bolted by Ricardo Vara.

FA: Ricardo Vara

Super fun steep climbing that goes all the way up into the wall. bolted by: Ricardo Vara.

FA: Ricardo Vara

HARD PROYECT ,MAYBE 5.14+. SUPER BOULDERY AND STEEP. BOLTED BY : RICARDO VARA.

open proyect!

Incredible climbing with a hard overhung start through nice tufas and some long moves onto more fun climbing.

bolted by ALEX CATLIN

Route starts in perlas de la virgen and goes to the first tufa knee bar rest, then goes left into el locker de David Jhones a 5.14 + project, the line goes through some pockets , keep following the traverse to the left and cli and fixed draws with chains, enter tiger bebe for move near the big hueco rest, reach to clip Ununpentum J:T:I perma crux and pull through, keep going all the way up, this proyect crosses 4 lines and makes it one of the hardest routes, longest and steepest!, free it if u can, enjoy!!!

CONECTION AND CHAINS BOLTED BY : JOE GUADARRAMA

Starts on “La Cumpleañera” and then climb left into “Las Perlas de la Virgen

ITS A CONECTION 3 BOLTS ONE , BOLTED BY : JOE GUADARRAMA.

SUPER FUN TECHY BOULDERY MOVES, KEEP UR HEEPS NEAR THE WALL.

Set: Joe Bert

Con bandas permanentes.

Empieza por un boulder a una repisa y después a la pared desplomada.

Muy divertida, calentamiento oficial.

Tiene extensión 5.12a, armada por Aaron Jelt.

---ENG---

Follow the permadraws.

Climb over a large boulder in the wall to pockets above.

Super fun, official warm-up.

With extension 5.12a, bolted by Aaron Jelt.

Set: AARON JELT

FA: Karl Guthrie, 20 Sep 2017

route located to the right of "the official warm up-cumpleañera"

very pumpy and bouldery line , with some cobbles , steep!boom!

FFA: POP

poyect, bolted By:GOOFY Saltillo

very steep , need to be cleaned up!half way is cleaned up !, wanna free it , clean it and put your name on the wall!

Bolted by GOOFY and Vale de La cruz.

FA: goofy

very steep climbing through cobbles and choss looking holds but its solid, very fun .

bolted by GOOFY from Saltillo and Vale de La Cruz.

very fun dihedral , follow the crack and pincHy holdS ,tufas and huecos, sustained there 2 permas as direcionals to clean the route.

BOLTED BY RODRIGO GARZA , MARCELO DIAZ.

climb pass the tiny roof , some rail sloppy crimps is what u get ,high feet , very explosive, bouldery and shorty, enjoint , mussys in the anchor!

BOLTED BY MARK GRUNDON.

climb the steep face near the dihedral , very techy and steep climbing, great friction ..

BOLTED BY OMAR RODRIGUEZ(COMPI) & JOE GUADARRAMA

FA: Joe Bert

climb some great crimps and sidepulls , dont go straight up when getS hard, go right to keep it 5.11 , if u dare .5.12 a move right there! very fun ..

BOLTED BY JOE GUADARRAMA

FA: Joe Bert

climb through some steady choss ,then great liemstone, ,find the holds, techy and fun!

BOLTED BY : MARK GRUNDON AND JOE GUADARRAMA.

sustained chossy fun stuff!SECOND ROUTE FROM RIGHT TO LEFT OF THE CAVE BOLTED BY : BRUNO BARRON.

last route on the right side of the cave shorty but thight!

bolted by Bruno Barron

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