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Description

This is why you come to the Boca! A tall wall with yellowish rock, slightly overhanging with great lines. Many routes have (hard) extensions but you also find warm-ups left (on grey rock) and right.

Approach

Hike in to the Boca and take a left once you see the wash and the wall, impossible to miss.

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

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Routes

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Grade Route

Trends left along the obvious crack to the anchor next to the tree.

FA: Connie Catlin

Start on the left edge of the low ledge.Climbs up into a small roof and anchors just above.Great transition move up high.

Set: Connie Catlin, Dec 2015

Very cool climbing through a small roof up high.

Set: Connie Rochelle, Dec 2015

Fun slopers!

Set: Alex Catlin, Dec 2015

15 bolts + 2 bolts con cadenas.

La ruta izquierda de tres que están muy cercanas en la pared grisacea.

15 bolts + 2 bolts with chains.

Leftmost route of three which are really close on grayish wall.

FA: Connie & alex

A bit of a squeeze, but more space higher above.

Anchor is on the small blank face high up.Angles right throught some nive uverhangs.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Feb 2016

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

Starts just half a meter right of Piña-Colada and trends right to an anchor in the yellowish rock.Technical climbing through a technical roof.

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Feb 2016

14 bolts + 2 permanent lower-offs (may '22)

A very well bolted line on the climbtech hangers. Follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles.

Start 5 feet left of cuba libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric Rousseau & Paul Brenner, Dec 2013

Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn.

Start on stainless steel hangers of 'War One' to the ledge. Tread left at the fourth bolt.Start on stainless hangers of tres amigos to the ledge. Tread left at the fourth bolt. Follow the obvious overhung arete,tufas ,laybacks and upper headwall face.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

New stainless fixe hangers following a right facing,right arching dihedral. A little runout. An alternative start is from Fantastic Voyage and tread left to Tre Amigos.

Set: Paya, 2012

FA: Nathan Jan, 2012

Extension of tres amigos. Starts in Alta Tensión.

Escala el diedro obvio que esta sobreprotegido con 4 plaquetas y llegas a una reunión después de salir del diedro. La ruta tiene una pequeña extensión.Climb a blocky start to a no hands ledge.Pump through the overhung arete inside the dahiedrel and tread right through tufas and back left on crimps and jugs to the anchors.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Climb fantastic voyage to the anchors and continue up for another 10m of value technical overhung face on crimps and slopers.

FA: Ricardo Vara

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Climb the grey slap to bouldery cruxes.

Set: Alex Catlin & Ralph Vegan Winter, 2016

Start on easy grey stone to the fourth bolt and the business stays with you until the very last move.Stellar .

Set: Alex Catlin, 2006

Set: Alex Catlin

Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. First bolted gound up in 2001 but rebolted with glue November 2015.

FA: James Cruikshank/Jay Foley, 2001

Honey Bear's extension. Climb past the anchors of honey bear up for 20 m past two roof system and technical fun, chains just after the second roof (~32m of climbing in total).Watch your fingers in roof transition up high, a small family of bats are rumored to be living there. Climb during cold spells to avoid a little snap of the fingers and better friction on the sloper crux.

Set: Ulric Rousseau

FA: RIcardo Varz

Starts just right of Honey Bear with a crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.First bolted winter 2001 and rebolted with glue November 2015.

FA: Paul Irby & James Cruikshank, 2001

Climb "Hijo de puta" and "Honey Bear Extension".

Climb the yellow streak all the way up to the roof and continue for a couple more moves to get the chains.

Set: Joel Guadarrama & el pop

FFA: Ricardo Vara

Abducción Anunnaki + Honey Bear Extension

Starts on Abducción Anunaki or Ayotzinapa, travers thru the fist roof to climb on honey bear extension, pass the second roof and climb all the way up to the last anchors in the wall (you'll have yo climb thru the anchors of Ayotnizapa, Abduccion Anunaki, Honey bear ext and continue to the 4th anchors in the wall). ~43m of climbing in total.

Starts just right of the dry bush. Follows the tufa and small break trending left to an anchor just below the small roof.

Set: Rodrigo Maldonado

Starts on "Ayotzinapa" but continues straight up in the first roof just before the first anchors. Goes all the way up to the chains of "Coyolxauhqui & Mictlantecuhtli"

Starts just right of Ayotzinapa 43 and passes right of the small roof to a higher anchor.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

Starts at Fuerza Civil. Just after the last crux traverse all the way to the left. Climb thou the roof of "Tlatelolco 68" and "Honey Bitch". keep traversing trou the obvious ledge that starts when the roof ends. When the ledge ends and a tufa starts keep climbing to the last anchors in the wall. It ends at the anchors of "Mi Compadre El Papá Luchón" (extensión of "3 Amigos").

FA: David Ramiro Zúñiga, 26 Jul

Es una ruta corta y dura de acomodar el cuerpo para subir por un diedro que está inclinado un poco a la derecha.

Climb the overhanging leaning arete right of Fuerza Civil. Short but steep with a nice step to reach the anchor.

FFA: Tiffany Hensley

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2015

Set: El Vario

FFA: David Ramiro Zúñiga

Start on "Que hay de mi?" and before the chains continue on to el "Arte de Volar".

The line passing over the big hole higher up. Has 2 perma draws before the anchor. Climb up the blocky face to the business. Shorter climbers will encounter a nice dyno/deadpoint to the hole at the 2nd to last bolt. A secret hold out left guards a easier clip position.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

Open Project; Small. Hard. Exposed. Flight time required.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

Shares the first few bolts with Trucutrulove, then continues on straight up. Original route was 5.12d, then a rest hold broke turning it into a 5.13a.

Set: Ulric Rousseau

FFA: Ulric Rousseau

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Jan 2015

Shares start with "Porn Star Obsession" but trends right. Used to be 11c, but a loose block was trundled making it much harder at the crux.

Trends right for the first 6 bolts or so to the bush and then goes up straight.

Super cool squeezed line between the 11's. Yes the final hold was comfortized for comfort and positivity and to avoid another 5.13. An extension to this would yeild a magnificient 13-/+ of 40+ meters.

Starts on the big separated block and continues on the head wall. Rebolted with glue ins November 2015.

Record de tiempo protegiendo cada una de las bandas: 2:00 David Ramiro Zúñiga

FFA: Luiz Carlos "Mac" Gracia, 1999

Trends out right from the first anchor for 5 more bolts. Follow the permadraws through really cool climbing, dynamic and layback moves to a sweet anchor clip stance.

Starts on the right side of the big boulder (4 bolts, 3 behind the block), then sketchy move to get to the wall. If you go straight the grade is 5.11b+, but if at the crux you go left then it is a 5.11a.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Jan 2016

Scramble up on the sloping ledge right of the detached block (you might want to clip the first bolt of Mouchie Mouchie) and take the left bolt line up the headwall.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

6 bolts more past 'The Sound of The Sound of the First Season'. Runout, steep, sustained all the way to the last bite. Can lower with an 80m or use First Season anchors as sub.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

FFA: ricardo vara, Mar 2016

Climb The Sound of the First Season, climb past the bulge and follow the 4 bolts right at the ledge then back up left to the anchors of The Sound of the Second Season.

Scramble up on the sloping ledge (1 bolt) and tackle the vertical wall. Trends slightly right to an anchor left of a thin tufa.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2013

These are the routes right of Mouchie Mouchie. Access them by taking the small paths in between the bushes. Multipitch routes also start in this section.

Dirty rock down low leads to glassy climbing up high on great jugs.

FA: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2014

Climb the slab to a bulge and on to a nice finish.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, Mar 2014

After passing the nice palm tree, the route trends right. Can be used to access La Derma de Oro's 2nd pitch.

1 5.11c
2 5.13a
3 5.12b
4 5.12b

This is a 4 pitch route going up the wall starting with a 5.11b/c that finishes right above the nice palm tree, anchor just right of Michael Jackson Tufa which is an alternative first pitch.

There is a fixed rope going left on the ledge at the top of pitch 2 and another shorter fixed rope left of the anchor on top of pitch 3.

FA: James Carse, 1998

This is a variant starting at the anchor for the 3rd pitch of La Derma de Oro and going up right of it through yellow rock.

1 5.9
2 5.11b

This is the alternative to reach the "3rd pitch routes" and finishes at the right anchor (top of pitch 2). Starts with a short slab, continues on an arete, then traverses right.

This "3rd pitch" starts on the right anchor and goes up straight to an anchor just above the dark black corner.

This is the "3rd pitch" going up straight to the well visible anchor on black rock.

This is the "3rd pitch" leaveing the anchor to the right and up through tufas to the lower anchor below the obvious bush.

Es la grieta que está en el diedro de la pared, a la izquierda de la arista gris.

Es la arista gris que está a la derecha del diedro donde está la grieta. Unfortunately, it's not very popular and the first half is covered with vegetation.

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