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Description

This crag features 2 beautiful 5.11 warmups, a 5.12 arete and two short, powerful and crimpy routes of stellar quality and unlike the rest of the climbing in El Salto.

This is the block when you continue to hike passed the trail to Tecolote Cave on the road into the canyon. There are a good handful of short routes that stay mostly in the shade.

Approach

To get to this crag: Walk towards Las Animas and go past Cueva del Tecolote for less than 1km. Time to approach is the same as the Cave, but without the steep uphill hike. Crag is a big block with a graffiti that reads "PENTA", about TWO feet from the car path, on the LEFT side of the canyon as you walk down, in front of a big, undeveloped roof. This is also where the bouldering in El Salto starts, walk past this sector to see hundreds of possible first ascents.

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

History

History timeline chart

5 routes with space for few more on the left. Bolted by Fernanda, the owner of Rock Camp, and Rafael B. and with the help of Carlos Garcia EL MAC in the winter of 2018-2019. Bolts used are expansion and stainless, or ClimbTech Glue-Ins.

Developed by Fernanda.

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Routes

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Grade Route

First route on the Left, dihedral with a tufa. Tricky but not hard.

FFA: Fernanda Rodriguez & Carlos Ramos, Jan 2019

FA: Fernanda Rodriguez, Jan 2019

Early Sloper Crux. Life can always get better, When you feel like giving up, just remember the reason why you held on for so long. Never never never give up.

FFA: Rafael Bausone, Jan 2019

FA: Rafael Bausone, Jan 2019

Glue-ins, very few but good moves, not so hard.

FA: Rafael Bausone & Fernanda Rodriguez, Jan 2019

FFA: Manolo Ruiz, Jul 2019

Short and hard of very good quality. Only one ascent so far at the time, july2019. Grade might be harder than reality.

FA: Fernanda Rodriguez, Jan 2019

FFA: Fernanda Rodriguez, Feb 2019

V4 plus V6 plus V4, mediocre rest after crux. Very small holds or very big move at the crux. Probably easier if you're tall but only one person (tall) has ever tried the route. Starts with a big move on the right, from the pockets straight up to a small tooth. Pre-clip the first bolt.

FA: Rafael Bausone, Jan 2019

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