La Psicodelia




Weird and cool tufa climbing where you climb using all kinds of crazy techniques.

Its diferent than other sectors in El Salto, the tufas on some rutes are bigger and feel more adventurous.

There are rutes of all grades, a 9+ a 5.10, like 4 5.11's, some 5.12's and some hard open projects.

The view from the cliff is amazing, all the rutes have lots of perma draws and chains and the anchors have fixed hooks.


5 minutes after the tecolote cave trail there is a big wall on the left side filled with tuffas, follow the marked trail that starts where the river has a curve.

The trail starts going up a steap hill filled with rock boulders, then you get to a fixed rope and go up some meters and then you have to go left through a little trail untill you find another fixed rope that takes you straight up towards the main wall and to the botom of the clasic rute "Floyd el Rosa"

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!


History timeline chart

The bolting started in 2019 by Zach Clanton & Pablo Fortes, after a while they where joined by 5 more bolters who seted 1 rute each and in 2020 Jay Foley and Fortes started bolting the left sector.


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Grade Route

FFA: jay foley

FA: Pablo Fortes & jay foley, 7 Feb 2020

Variant of shrooming.

FFA: jay foley, 7 Feb 2020

FA: Pablo Fortes & jay foley, 7 Feb 2020

FFA: jay foley, 7 Feb 2020

FA: Pablo Fortes & jay foley, 7 Feb 2020

Route under development

FA: Pablo Fortes

Unfinished route with abandoned quickdraws.

FA: Carlos Ramos

Nice tufa climbing!

FA: Rafael Bausone, 2019

Super cool 3D climbing.

FFA: Zach Clanton, 2019

FA: Pablo Fortes & Zach Clanton, 2019

Cruxy start and then a technical chimeney between tuffas.

FA: Pablo Fortes & Zach Clanton, 1 Feb 2019

Mega Clasic!! A great ride of 3D climbing between great tufas.

FA: Pablo Fortes & Zach Clanton, 2 Feb 2019

A hard crux on the first roof, you can start in Floyd el rosa and then go to the right if you want to skip the hard move and enjoy the rest of the route.

Open proyect, go for it and get the FFA!

FA: Pablo Fortes, 7 Feb 2019

3rd route from right to left.follow the overhanging crack diedral into roof and gigantic tufas.

First anchor goes up to 28 meter, extension goes another 12 meters.

First anchor name: un mundo feliz. Extension name: fuera de la realidad.

80 m rope.

Open Project.

FA: Joe Bert, 3 Mar 2019

Long and well bolted route.

Open project, please try it and send it!

FA: Luis Carlos García Ayala, 4 Apr 2019

FA: Mark Grundon, 4 Apr 2019


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