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Gerakopetra

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Summary

Excellent crag with many good sports routes reaches a height of 40m in places.

Description

Excellent crag with many good sports routes, commanding great views over the Akamas peninsula and Lara bay. Reaches a height of 40m in places and some of the routes require two pitches. Its elevation of around 600m and North/East and North/West facing aspect makes this a good summer choice.

Access issues inherited from Ineia-Drousheia Area

No known access issues, the area is within the Akamas National Park. Please respect the nature and behave responsibly (do not litter, try to keep to established roads/trails as much as possible and practice the principle of leaving the place you visit better than it was before). This is to maintain the current free access to the boulders for everyone to enjoy.

As the rock quality in the area is excellent, we must as climbers do our best to ensure that the rock remains in the best condition possible for the future. As such please read the steps below that can be taken to ensure that we preserve the rock while climbing:

  1. Please don’t climb with wet or dirty shoes, as this damages the hardened outer layer of sandstone over time, exposing the soft layer underneath, which is prone to erosion. As such make sure to thoroughly clean your shoes before pulling on any problems using a rag, carpet etc.

  2. Don’t climb when the rock is wet or damp, and refrain from climbing the day after it has rained. The rock may appear dry on the outside however the inner layers absorb water which weakens the overall integrity of the rock, which can cause holds to break. A good rule of thumb: if the ground around the rock is still pretty wet then probably you shouldn’t climb.

  3. Don’t use wire brushes to clean the rock as this can be highly damaging to the rock, there may be occasions where some wire brushing may be necessary to remove heavy patches of lichen, but this should always be done as a last resort, with a light touch and a lot of care, so if you need to clean something opt for nylon or bristle brushes.

  4. While the farmers we have spoken to are perfectly fine with us climbing on their land this is dependent on us not disturbing or damaging any of their crops and trees, so please be extra careful of this when climbing on boulders located in farmland as this is the easiest and quickest way for us to lose access to these boulders.

  5. Don’t litter! (This should go without saying)

  6. No chipping, manufacturing, or modification of holds! (This too should also go without saying)

To summarize, the area around Inia and Droushia is an incredible area with unique rock and climbing, and the only one of its kind in Cyprus. As there is a limited amount of quality rock on the island if we all make sure to follow the above steps, we will be ensuring that the boulders and crags in the area will survive and that their quality will be maintained over the years for everyone to enjoy!

Approach

Starting from Ineia, pass through the village heading west. Pass the coop bank and coffee shop on the right, and at the three-way, crossroads take the middle road. At the junction, then bear left and head out of the village. Continue for about 1km (passing a road signposted to Droushia on the right). After the road starts to descend, two small roads appear on the left. The second leads to the army base and is guarded by "strictly no entry" signs. Take the second of the small roads (with the no-entry sign!) and continue for about 500m. Just as the road bends left to head for the camp, take the small track (easily missed) on the right. If you have a good 4-wheel vehicle then you can follow the track to its end at the top of the crag. Alternatively, park at the entrance to the track or continue down the track and park on the left halfway along before it starts to descend.

Ethic inherited from Cyprus

The local online source is: https://www.cyprusrocks.eu. Please consider donating to there bolting fund.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

An interesting start leads to easier ground.

Tricky move quarter of the way up leads to easier climbing above. Take care with rope drag at the top.

The difficult moves at the second bolt are slightly easier on the left. Good balance helps.

Good route and tricky for the grade.

Nice introduction to the crag. Originally short (thus the name) but now much longer.

Another nice slab route.

Yet another nice route.

Difficult move high up.

The great route up the steep corner. Feels like a trad route (and it was once).

Another great route up the edge of the overhang.

An even better route than the previous two. Very steep at the top, but the huge bucket holds compensates.

The huge overhang is taken direct at its biggest span. Originally done as a traditionally protected route, which must have been fun!

Hard route with two cruxes one in the middle and the other on top. Easier for the first crux to traverse right. Harder if you go straight probably a 6c/c+ move

Difficult start and tricky finish.

You can start the route from "Iptamenos Skorpios" also. Hard crux traverse in the beginning.

Flag happiness!

Excellent route with a bouldery start and a demanding crux in the middle.

Convoluted and unbalanced route. A bouldery start, then traverse left and finish up what used to be a VDiff trad chimney.

Amazing route with a tricky start. The crux is slabby and technical.

A scary dyno move!

The crux is in the second exit. 7a+ if you go straight. Easier traverse right maybe 6c+/7a.

A perfect route, 2 finger solution in the middle and a bouldery crux on top make the route a must-do!

Very nice route with a very tricky crux. After it becomes easier following a crack/chimney.

Nice route with tricky start (magic feet) and a generous runout from 4th to 5th bolt where you need to be careful. Same anchor with the next two routes.

A difficult beginning leads to an "easy" beta-dependent crux. Route has been re-bolted recently.

Same start as "Mascle Eater" but follow the bolts going straight up.

Start as Sicario but follow the bolts heading right.

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